just_steve
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- Oct 27, 2012
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So this is my first ever brew: a beer kit of Woodfoorde Nog in time for Christmas if it all goes well :pray: . I did all this last Wednesday:
Unfortunately I can't yet put up image urls as I'm still a new user but I'll describe as best as I can.
So I sanitised everything in my FV with a powder steriliser from Young's. I was quite surprised to find it smelt of chlorine, if I'm honest, although maybe I should have expected that, given how toxic chlorine is to bacteria and wild yeast alike! The bit that worried me was getting the chlorine smell out of the FV after rinsing it out. It seemed to take a few rinses and a short soak in a solution with a Campden tablet but I got there.
I then did a few extra things to what the kit advised:
I added my dry yeast to a jug of water while I was heating up the extract cans just to start them hydrating.
Once the cans were heated, I added all the extract to a stock pot with some pre-heated water to help dissolution. I only left it in there for a couple of minutes and decided not to boil this solution. This is because I guess the extract comes with hop extract in it too and if I'd boiled it for any length of time, it would probably affect the profile for the hops in the beer (ie. move it away from aroma and towards added bitterness)... although I am probably expecting too much from a kit!
I then had my second panic: After adding the extract solution to the FV and a solution with half a Campden tablet, I wanted to top up the wort to 5 gallons, aerating it in the process. I decided to do this by using the shower head in my new bath because it has a high-speed jet. BAD MISTAKE! The force from it was so powerful it made a huge foamy head on top of the wort which meant I struggled to dip my sampling jar in for a hydrometer test without my hand coming into contact with the foam! Note to self: don't use the shower head and get a 50-100ml syringe for taking out samples for testing!
Afterwards, I calmed down a bit, chucked in my jug of yeast, attached the lid and switched on my final little experiment: an aquarium heater set to 20oC which I wired through the lid with a rubber grommet and vaseline to seal. I'm aware that some of you probably won't like this last point as there are heating mats but I fancied an experiment :geek: . I've read a rather old paper (1960s I think) on heat transmittance through sugar solutions of varying gravities and I'm not convinced, at the gravities usually experienced in beer brewing, that the heat transmittance is reduced enough that it creates a localised heat spot around the heater... but I figured the only way to find out was try it and see if the beer comes out fine. So we'll see!
It's now Sunday, the airlock has been bubbling away fine and it's actually started to slow down now so I guess I'll check the airlock every day now to see when it stops and then start taking hydrometer readings. I've got yeast nutrient in case the readings aren't low and the fermentation has become stuck. Speaking of readings, my OG came in at 1.038 @ 20oC which I thought was low but I guess I'm new to this...
One question I have, from another thread, there is a suggestion to leave the FV for a week and half or just over that... If my fermentation has stopped (confirmed by gravity readings) before then, surely I'd want to transfer it away from the sediment before yeast autolysis? Does anybody know how long it takes before autolysis is likely to start? And, therefore, how long could I leave the beer in the FV to make sure the sediment has settle out but feel safe?
Unfortunately I can't yet put up image urls as I'm still a new user but I'll describe as best as I can.
So I sanitised everything in my FV with a powder steriliser from Young's. I was quite surprised to find it smelt of chlorine, if I'm honest, although maybe I should have expected that, given how toxic chlorine is to bacteria and wild yeast alike! The bit that worried me was getting the chlorine smell out of the FV after rinsing it out. It seemed to take a few rinses and a short soak in a solution with a Campden tablet but I got there.
I then did a few extra things to what the kit advised:
I added my dry yeast to a jug of water while I was heating up the extract cans just to start them hydrating.
Once the cans were heated, I added all the extract to a stock pot with some pre-heated water to help dissolution. I only left it in there for a couple of minutes and decided not to boil this solution. This is because I guess the extract comes with hop extract in it too and if I'd boiled it for any length of time, it would probably affect the profile for the hops in the beer (ie. move it away from aroma and towards added bitterness)... although I am probably expecting too much from a kit!
I then had my second panic: After adding the extract solution to the FV and a solution with half a Campden tablet, I wanted to top up the wort to 5 gallons, aerating it in the process. I decided to do this by using the shower head in my new bath because it has a high-speed jet. BAD MISTAKE! The force from it was so powerful it made a huge foamy head on top of the wort which meant I struggled to dip my sampling jar in for a hydrometer test without my hand coming into contact with the foam! Note to self: don't use the shower head and get a 50-100ml syringe for taking out samples for testing!
Afterwards, I calmed down a bit, chucked in my jug of yeast, attached the lid and switched on my final little experiment: an aquarium heater set to 20oC which I wired through the lid with a rubber grommet and vaseline to seal. I'm aware that some of you probably won't like this last point as there are heating mats but I fancied an experiment :geek: . I've read a rather old paper (1960s I think) on heat transmittance through sugar solutions of varying gravities and I'm not convinced, at the gravities usually experienced in beer brewing, that the heat transmittance is reduced enough that it creates a localised heat spot around the heater... but I figured the only way to find out was try it and see if the beer comes out fine. So we'll see!
It's now Sunday, the airlock has been bubbling away fine and it's actually started to slow down now so I guess I'll check the airlock every day now to see when it stops and then start taking hydrometer readings. I've got yeast nutrient in case the readings aren't low and the fermentation has become stuck. Speaking of readings, my OG came in at 1.038 @ 20oC which I thought was low but I guess I'm new to this...
One question I have, from another thread, there is a suggestion to leave the FV for a week and half or just over that... If my fermentation has stopped (confirmed by gravity readings) before then, surely I'd want to transfer it away from the sediment before yeast autolysis? Does anybody know how long it takes before autolysis is likely to start? And, therefore, how long could I leave the beer in the FV to make sure the sediment has settle out but feel safe?