My first all grain, a few questions and lots of mistakes

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MikeW

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Bought a 19l stout kit from CML. Wow their customer service is second to none. After much reading but alas not enough I went with a 3 tiered BITB set up. I modified a cool box to use as the sparge box with soldered top spray arm and non soldered grain filter. I used push fit elbows and plastic 15mm pipe to enable cleaning.


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So, what went wrong?

When I put the bag in the Boiler/Mash tun I was stirring the grains every 10mins and lifting and dunking the bag just like a tea bag, not sure is this is good or a no no?

After 60mins I attempted to lift the bag out and place it in the cool box ready for sparging. Looking back I should have had a hook in the garage roof so I could at least let it drain. Transferring this hot heavy bag is not without mess!

Is it recommended to squeeze the bag at this time?

When I dropped the bag in the box it immediately started to drain over my feet! Even when positioned over the boiler, while sparging the drain being straight leaked all over the bench rather than flowing into the boiler below. (I have since modified it with an outlet tap and a bent spout)

To adjust the sparge flow I simply used a flexible hose clamp on the supply hose as the hot liquor tank valve was a simple on/off.

When I had achieved my preboil volume I wasn’t sure again if I was allowed to squeeze the bag to extract the remaining goodness?

Next snag I encountered was that the second hand boiler I had bought for the job did not get hotter than 80 deg. (Now fixed by insulating the sensor probe away from the bottom, plan to add an inkbird or similar soon). Luckily the hot liquor tank I had been lent also doubled as a boiler albeit of a smaller size. I was then forced to transfer the wort between the two, you can imagine the mess.

Once I had the wort boiling and luckily not overflowing, I remembered I had not checked the preboil SG. During the sparge process the on/off tap had worked a treat, now after I had drained a sample off for a hydrometer reading the tap had a continual leak! Matters were compounded as the expected reading of circa 1060 was 1027. Assuming I had lost so much wort during the sparge I thought the only way to save the day was to add sugar. Guess what, all I kind find in the kitchen was less than 300 grams. As it was now 10.30pm and I had started this at 6pm I just threw it all in thinking I could buy some the following day.

As I have not made/acquired a cooling coil I drained the wort at the end of the boil into the FV, sealed the top with an airlock and left overnight to cool. (I have since read that it’s important to cool rapidly as the cold break has an effect on the proteins?) Next morning the FV was still very warm so was left until the evening to add the sugar. In the evening after work I read the now cool wort’s SG before adding sugar and to my complete surprise the SG was 1060!

Final question, I am aware you have to compensate for Hydrometers that are calibrated at 20C. As I was so far off with the reading taken during the boil, is there a point at witch they don’t work?

Surprisingly I did enjoy the process, just hope the end results are better than kits. Shame it may turn out to be 19 litres of “falling down juice”

Mike W.
 
If I read it right you tried to sparge in a traditional sparge cooler set up. To use that you need to do the mash in the cooler with the sparge arm over the top after the mash is doneor if using a bag you are doing BIAB which as you correctly said need lift/hoisting out the sparge water run over the bag of mash and then this is still controversial but not so much nowadays squeeze the **** out of the bag.
Oh by the way welcome to the forum athumb..
 
Welcome to the hobby!
When I put the bag in the Boiler/Mash tun I was stirring the grains every 10mins and lifting and dunking the bag just like a tea bag, not sure is this is good or a no no?
It won't have done it any harm, but it's unnecessary. After you've put the grain and water in and given it a good stir to get everything at the same temperature, you can just leave it sitting there for the 60 minute mash.

Is it recommended to squeeze the bag at this time?
Some do, some don't. Both appear to make fine beer.
When I had achieved my preboil volume I wasn’t sure again if I was allowed to squeeze the bag to extract the remaining goodness?
"Allowed"? 😆 Of course! It's not like the beer police will come a-knocking.
Some people will squeeze the bag to get the last of the goodness out (as you say). Some won't because allegedly it gives you cloudier wort and can have some tannins (unpleasant astringent flavours) come out of the grains - but others say this doesn't happen. There is no consensus on the topic, so do what you think is better for you and see how it turns out.

As I have not made/acquired a cooling coil I drained the wort at the end of the boil into the FV, sealed the top with an airlock and left overnight to cool. (I have since read that it’s important to cool rapidly as the cold break has an effect on the proteins?)
There are plenty of people doing this overnight cooling (search for "no chill"). You'll be fine. You bunged it up to keep the nasties away, so it should be fine. Though as the wort cooled, it will have contracted and tried to suck back in air through your airlock. You will probably find that whatever was in your airlock is now in your wort. If it was sanitary, then it won't have caused it any problems as any bugs will soon be out-competed by the yeast you threw in the next day, but something to be aware of for next time.

Matters were compounded as the expected reading of circa 1060 was 1027.
Next morning the FV was still very warm so was left until the evening to add the sugar. In the evening after work I read the now cool wort’s SG before adding sugar and to my complete surprise the SG was 1060!

Final question, I am aware you have to compensate for Hydrometers that are calibrated at 20C. As I was so far off with the reading taken during the boil, is there a point at witch they don’t work?
As you've identified, hydrometers are calibrated at 20C. You can use formulae to compensate for temperature differences, but these tend to only work reliable in a relatively narrow range around 20°. I would trust it at 30 or maybe 40 degrees, but if you were measuring the gravity much above that, then I wouldn't trust it much. I could easily expect that if you were measuring around 80° or above that the reading would 1.027 instead of 1.060, even after compensating.


It's very rare that a first brew goes swimmingly - there are some good tales around of what happened on a first brew (I've had quite a few!) - but glad that you enjoyed it! Welcome to the forum. Here's to hoping it tastes good (it probably will - homebrew is pretty forgiving and nothing in your experience would give me cause for alarm). Now all you need to do is to be patient until it's drinking time (that first month of waiting for it to be ready can seem like forever)
 
+1 for everything above.

Personally I'm a squeezer to get everything out!!

Regarding your hydrometer and hot wort...I take a sample and use an online calculator (brewersfriend). It gives me a good indication even when at the max (I think about 70oC - the value between the adjusted and cooled wort is never more than 1-2 pts out in my experience). I then leave the wort in the trial jar to cool whilst boiling. You can then check again as it cools. Good to have a taste once cool, and again when you take a sample after boiling. Enjoy the experience 👍
 
Thanks guys for taking the time to reply, really appreciate it. Its reassuring to hear that I could hope for great results on my first attempt.
Have enjoyed reading other people's posts and thought it only fair to contribute to this excellent community.
Cheers.
 
About 40 brews in now and still get spillages unexpected. All was going well on Wednesday and set the pump and CIP up to clean a keg. Stupid plug arrangement here meant that as i put the plug in I pushed the power switch on socket and I got a quick shower in warm pbw. It's good for cleaning the floor though!
 

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