My cheepo plastic HERMS

[evanvine]

Heat Exchanger
This started life as a cooler for producing demineralised water.
This was needed for adjusting the normality of my Iodine solution (SO2 measurement).
The extra fittings are for the cold water inlet and outlet.
A PT100 is also shown fitted.
The concept of using a plastic bucket is not original as Vossy used an acrylic container.

Recirculation Header
This is based on Muddydisco’s design and fits a hole in the middle of the snap on lid.
Each of the 4 outlets is positioned so it covers ¼ of the surface area.

Pump Manifold
This little Solar pump is excellent, responds nicely to changes in voltage.
The by-pass valve gives a very fine control.

Grain Filter
Had to build this as I’ve always previously mashed using a grain bag.

Grain filter in position

Spinney Sparger
My thanks go eskimobob for this item.
It has been slightly modified.

Spinner in position

I still have next week off, so am planning a brewday with stepped mashing.
Didn’t take any pics of it all set up, it was too cold in the garage without the HLT etc being on.

 

[Tony]

Fantastic work there Jim, really nice job!

:

 

[Springer]

Looks good E. makes me want to go down to the workshop
Noticed you like soldering so do I so made the whole think from sheet copper, flanged ends like a boiler :lol:

Field trails

I put the PT100 in the tee piece at the top, wort out, maybe something Vossy said, :? but noticed yours is in the heated water. I have an inclination to measure wort in temperature as well :?
V will no doubt be around later to put us right.

 

[BarnsleyBrewer]

Looking good Jim, when ya doing the maiden brew? :hmm:

 

[unclepumble]

That's looking like a proper project jim, & I have never ever seen a bypass valve on a pump that small :) You should get ample control by controlling voltage, but I suppose hydrostatic control is a boon to have at hand as well though.


I am looking forward to seeing this bad boy in action. :thumb:

UP

 

[Vossy1]

Some great work going on there ev :clap:
Out of interest, what made you use down turned elbows for the tun return manifold, instead of the conventional upturned?
The PT100 in the HE, is it there to measure the HE temp not the exiting runnings.
Have you thought about a 'stiirer' in the HE to get even heat distribution?

Looking forward to watching this progress :thumb:

 

[corby_brewer]

Whats this? Does this mean that young Jim is moving out of the dark age?
Nice workk mate. i'll have to pop over and see it working some time.

 

[robsan77]

I'm liking the look of this thread :thumb:

 

[Springer]

Have you thought about a 'stiirer' in the HE to get even heat distribution?

Tell us more V, I think I need one of these to improve heat transfer in my HE. Point proven when an immersion coil in the wort, is left stationary for a while the run of water goes cold until it is agitated around.
So what is the best/easiest way of stirring a HE

As you say it is easy not to dough in properly and get quite a temperature variation in a mash. Lots and lots of stirring required, those cheap nasty wobble stirrers are only good for stirring liquids not doughing in. That job need a big strong stainless thing, must treat myself.

 

[evanvine]

Thank you for your feedback gentlemen, but the proof of the pudding……..

Noticed you like soldering so do I so made the whole think from sheet copper, flanged ends like a boiler.

That looks very impressive S
My "coil" came from a type of IC I built many years ago, hence all the soldering, no soft copper pipe then,

I put the PT100 in the tee piece at the top, wort out, maybe something Vossy said, but noticed yours is in the heated water. I have an inclination to measure wort in temperature as well

I will be continuously monitoring the temp of the mash until I can determine the thermal losses of the system, will then alter the PID target temp accordingly.

Tony, your comment is very generous, thank you.

Looking good Jim, when ya doing the maiden brew?

Hopefully next week BB.

I have never ever seen a bypass valve on a pump that small You should get ample control by controlling voltage, but I suppose hydrostatic control is a boon to have at hand as well though.

It makes all the difference UP, plus the way you orientate the "T" pieces.

Out of interest, what made you use down turned elbows for the tun return manifold, instead of the conventional upturned?

I used “down turned elbows so that when I came to change the pump scavenge from the mash tun to the HLT for sparging, the siphon effect would help clear the viscous wort before connecting the pump flow to the “spinney”

The PT100 in the HE, is it there to measure the HE temp not the exiting runnings.

Precisely, I will br monitoring the mash temp and will adjust the PID target temp accordingly.

Have you thought about a 'stiirer' in the HE to get even heat distribution?

Steady on V, it's early days yet!

Whats this? Does this mean that young Jim is moving out of the dark age?
Nice workk mate. i'll have to pop over and see it working some time.

I would be delighted if you did Dave

I'm liking the look of this thread

It's all about trying to make the most of what you have on hand Rob.

 

[Vossy1]

How big is that HE vessel ev? Heat exchangers tend to be as small as possible so they can 'react' to changes rapidly. They do this pricipally due to the heat tranfer between element and water, therefore the bigger the element, the smaller the volume of water, the faster the heat transfer (assuming HE coil is adequate) If you use a large HE it will react more slowly, and may/will have thermoclines due to the large volume of water, hence the potential need for a stirrer.

Having said that, if you pre heat the HE water bath prior to recirc to target temp, a large HE is beneficial, but you need to be able to replace any heat lost in the HE rapidy, hence concern over large volumes to small element power.

I used “down turned elbows so that when I came to change the pump scavenge from the mash tun to the HLT for sparging, the siphon effect would help clear the viscous wort before connecting the pump flow to the “spinney”

I'd seroiusly reconsider. Even with the elbows upturned you disturb the mash bed directly beneath the elbow to some extent (flow dependant naturally), with them facing downwards you may well 'bore' into the mash bed, not what you want to do.

EDIT, the principal behind HERMS is to measure the recirc temp, as if this is constant, the mash will follow. If you measure the mash temp you could well recirc 85 deg c plus runnings into the mash before getting to your target temp...not what you want to do.

and, throw principals out of the window :P , I know you have a good grounding in heat transfer from your steam exploits

 

[evanvine]

I know you have a good grounding in heat transfer from your steam exploits

All comments duly noted Vossy, experimenting and finding out is halt the fun!
My article is not meant to definitive, just a way I saw fit to try.
Hell, it might even work :rofl:

 

[Vossy1]

All comments duly noted Vossy, experimenting and finding out is halt the fun!

I couldn't agree more, well said that man :clap:

 

[Mark1964]

How big is that HE vessel ev? Heat exchangers tend to be as small as possible so they can 'react' to changes rapidly. They do this pricipally due to the heat tranfer between element and water, therefore the bigger the element, the smaller the volume of water, the faster the heat transfer (assuming HE coil is adequate) If you use a large HE it will react more slowly, and may/will have thermoclines due to the large volume of water, hence the potential need for a stirrer.

Having said that, if you pre heat the HE water bath prior to recirc to target temp, a large HE is beneficial, but you need to be able to replace any heat lost in the HE rapidy, hence concern over large volumes to small element power.

I used “down turned elbows so that when I came to change the pump scavenge from the mash tun to the HLT for sparging, the siphon effect would help clear the viscous wort before connecting the pump flow to the “spinney”

would a return manifold like this one be ok if the mash was covered with foil. I need to make a return manifold so would appreciate input. Would it be better on the mash bed if the 4 corners of the manifold had copper pipe actually going into the mash so less disturbance
I'd seroiusly reconsider. Even with the elbows upturned you disturb the mash bed directly beneath the elbow to some extent (flow dependant naturally), with them facing downwards you may well 'bore' into the mash bed, not what you want to do.

EDIT, the principal behind HERMS is to measure the recirc temp, as if this is constant, the mash will follow. If you measure the mash temp you could well recirc 85 deg c plus runnings into the mash before getting to your target temp...not what you want to do.

and, throw principals out of the window :P , I know you have a good grounding in heat transfer from your steam exploits

 

[Darcey]

What did you use to control the voltage on the solar pump :wha:

 

[evanvine]

What did you use to control the voltage on the solar pump :wha:

If the question is directed at me, I use an old electric train controller along with a pump by-pass valve.
My HERMS now only holds 2 ltrs and I control it's output temp into th MT

 

[Darcey]

thanks. I have at least 3 train controllers. I have been looking for something a little more elegant to fit into a control board but I guess I'll have to just use the train controllers.

What did you use to control the voltage on the solar pump :wha:

If the question is directed at me, I use an old electric train controller along with a pump by-pass valve.
My HERMS now only holds 2 ltrs and I control it's output temp into th MT

 

[Dronfieldbrewer]

thanks. I have at least 3 train controllers. I have been looking for something a little more elegant to fit into a control board but I guess I'll have to just use the train controllers.

What did you use to control the voltage on the solar pump :wha:

If the question is directed at me, I use an old electric train controller along with a pump by-pass valve.
My HERMS now only holds 2 ltrs and I control it's output temp into th MT

Someone on here used a 12v LED light dimmer to great effect

 

[shocker]

Theres loads of cheap variable power supplies sold for the tattoo market that will do the job and look tidy,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pro-Tattoo-Re ... 2512wt_877

something like that , theres loads more . Much better suited to the purposes here