Mash Tun Advice

[rich1985]

Hi All

My friend and I moved to all grain three brews back and gave been really pleased with the results. We are however concerned about temperature loss in the mash. We currently mash in a fermenter with reflectix and blankets around it. We maxi BIAB brew.

Wanting to invest in a mash tun but want to buy something that would make the job as stress free as possible. In my head I'm currently thinking ACe because of accuracy and that it can boil too. Just worried it takes some of the fun out of it!

Three options cost 60,90 and 120 in that order. Considering we go halves on equipment none are an unrealistic outlay. Just want to get this right so we don't have to reinvest in more equipment further down the line.

Got three ideas and just wanted some advice

COOL BOXwould hopefully hold temp better but still concerned about accuracy. If we still had issues it's a waste of 60 quid.

BURCO URN these look like they do the job but don't they just have five settings. If I'm going electric thinking I should just have an accurate thermostat. I know you can modify them but not wiling to mess about with electrics. Also heard alot of people say they cut out when used it as a boiler.

ACE BREWER
http:// https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-BEER-MASH-TUN-2h-TIMER-30L-Boiler-double-wall-with-BOTTOM-FILTER-HOPS-BAG-/391218805137?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275&_mwBanner=1[/URL]https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-BEER-MASH-TUN-2h-TIMER-30L-Boiler-double-wall-with-BOTTOM-FILTER-HOPS-BAG-/391218805137?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275&_mwBanner=1 my logic behind this is its accurate as a masher and can also double up as a boiler too.

Thanks everyone!

Richard

 

[Bigcol49]

Hi!
The ACE is a great piece of kit. I've added an extra layer of insulation in the form of an exercise mat taped around the exterior of the boiler.
It's ideal for BIAB as it comes with a bag and a false bottom.
I use mine as the main element in a RIMS system - the boiler element is controlled by a PID so that I can maintain the mash temperature by heating the wort; I reduce the output of the element with a voltage regulator to prevent the wort from "burning".
This system allows me to do step mashes.
The advantage of the ACE is that it doubles as a mash tun and a boiler.

 

[MyQul]

Forumite Buster has a mash tun for sale. I think it's still available

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=74369

 

[rich1985]

Hi!
The ACE is a great piece of kit. I've added an extra layer of insulation in the form of an exercise mat taped around the exterior of the boiler.
It's ideal for BIAB as it comes with a bag and a false bottom.
I use mine as the main element in a RIMS system - the boiler element is controlled by a PID so that I can maintain the mash temperature by heating the wort; I reduce the output of the element with a voltage regulator to prevent the wort from "burning".
This system allows me to do step mashes.
The advantage of the ACE is that it doubles as a mash tun and a boiler.

I'm really tempted. You say RIMS system and a PID system. I'm not quite sure what RIMS is? When you say PID does this mean in order to maintain mash temp on an ACE I need to buy an additional piece of kit?

Thanks for the advice!

Richard

 

[rich1985]

Forumite Buster has a mash tun for sale. I think it's still available

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=74369

Yeah I have enquired about this. Looks a lovely piece of kit. That's what I'm toying between. Something along those lines or the ACE. My only concern is would it still be tricky regulating the temp.

I'm just thinking will I end up still wanting to get the ACE afterwards regardless?

 

[MyQul]

Yeah I have enquired about this. Looks a lovely piece of kit. That's what I'm toying between. Something along those lines or the ACE. My only concern is would it still be tricky regulating the temp.

I'm just thinking will I end up still wanting to get the ACE afterwards regardless?

Never used a mash tun myself. I just use my pot or an FV.

 

[rich1985]

Never used a mash tun myself. I just use my pot or an FV.

Do you lose a lot of temp in the FV? With the pot I'm worried about the grain burning on the bottom as I only have 19l pot and 6 kilo grain bill is a snug fit!

Do you know anything about the ACE? Feedback seems positive and at 60 quid each for me and my friend, it seems reasonable?

 

[MyQul]

Do you lose a lot of temp in the FV? With the pot I'm worried about the grain burning on the bottom as I only have 19l pot and 6 kilo grain bill is a snug fit!

Do you know anything about the ACE? Feedback seems positive and at 60 quid each for me and my friend, it seems reasonable?

Yes, I probably lose a few degrees with the FV but I dont worry about it. Most of the conversion is done in the first 10-15 mins and if I felt my beer was lacking body, I'd just up the mash temp.
When I used to do overnight mashes, the mash was quite thick and the pot was full so it used to keep itself warm (I'd lose about 10C in 11 hours). So if I was worried about losing heat in my FV I'd could also just get a smaller one to mash in.

I know nothing about the ace mash tun but there's a large thread on the ACE micro brewery, which of course is an integral mash tun too so may help you decide

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=66934

 

[Bigcol49]

I'm really tempted. You say RIMS system and a PID system. I'm not quite sure what RIMS is? When you say PID does this mean in order to maintain mash temp on an ACE I need to buy an additional piece of kit?

Thanks for the advice!

Richard

Hi!
No, you won't need a PID
Get the strike water temperature right and dough in, then leave for the mash time. If your mash tun is well insulated it should hold the temperature well. The ACE is double walled, but it won't harm to add further insulation (sleeping bag, quilt etc).
A RIMS system uses a pump to circulate the wort past a heating element. A PID monitors the wort temperature and controls the heating element.

 

[Clint]

I chose the £90 igloo cooler. It's great! But beware it's a feisty bugger at cleaning up time....

 

[Clint]

...the lid got me!

 

[Gunge]

I use a Coleman's Extreme cool box fitted with stainless braid. It won't lose more than 1C over a couple of hours and the SS braid works better than I had any right to expect.

 

[Gunge]

How did you manage that, Clint?

 

[Clint]

Holding up the mash tun to swill out some grains and forgot about the lid...wallop!

 

[MyQul]

...the lid got me!

You do know brewing ISN'T a contact sport? :lol:

 

[Clint]

As long as it's not any of that mucky inappropriate stuff you can't remember from 30 years ago it's fine....

 

[Clint]

As long as it's not any of that mucky inappropriate stuff you can't remember from 30 years ago it's fine....

 

[rich1985]

Ouch. Properly suffering for your art there!

 

[Deadhead]

Ouch Clint!

 

[AlanHarper]

Hi Guys, I too had the dilema in choosing from the many versions of Mash Tun and I finaly plumped for modifying a 33 litre Youngs FV I already had to hand. I wanted to insulate it and had drawn up a design to encase it in Building Foam (which I may still do to another bin and publish on here sometime if it works) but I decided to start off just cladding it in polystyrene. This is how I did it and I include the design if anyone wishes to attempt the same hair-brained scheme.

My kind neighbour was able to give me some off-cuts of insulation foam he was using for the kids playhouse so I didn't need to buy that. The foam is available from Wickes in different thicknesses but since I was given foam of 25mm thickness I found a sheet of the same costs only �£6.99. (PICTURE 1).
The disign of the cladding uses only half a sheet.

Kay Metzeler General Purpose Polystyrene EPS70 - 2400mm x 600mm x 25mm
Product Code: 210801
Length: 2400 mm
Thickness: 25 mm
Width: 600 mm
Material: Polystyrene
Usage: Masonary Walls
Coverage: 1.44 m2
Grade: Grade EPS 70
Thermal Conductivity: 0.038 W/mK - This is the important bit
Thermal Resistance R Value: 0.66 m2K/W

I fitted a tap to the bin and a Bazooka Screen to the inside (where else?) so I had to cater for that when constructing the cladding.

The dimensions of the bin were taken and the best layout of the spars calculated. (PICTURE 2)
The upper circumference - just under the lip - was 1100mm and the base was 1000mm. This conveniently divides up to 20 individual spars with 55mm tops and 50mm bottoms (PICTURE 3).
When you add in a circular base the length of the spars were 360mm.
There is room in half a sheet of insulation for all 20 spars, a base and a disc to attach to (or lay on) the lid of the FV bin.

Construction

The bin is turned upside down and the cut out base disc is placed on top. The spars, with the narrowest (50mm) end lined up to the edge of the disc, are attached to the base using cocktail sticks that are easily pushed through the spar and into the base. (PICTURE 7).
This is done progressively round the side of the bin with the bottom edge of the spar pushed up to beneath the rim of the bin and the upper edge flush with the base. Parts of the spar can be easily trimmed with a sharp knife at the regions of the bin handles and, in my case, where the tap is.


When all the spars are in place the securing sticks are pushed in flush with the sides of the spars and the whole base is taped up to hold it all together. A rubber band is secured around the spars to hold them close to the bin so further tape can be applied to secure the whole cladding together (PICTURE 9). Apply as many hoops of tape as you see fit - the more the merrier - I ran out of tape after 3 turns and I may apply more later (PICTURE 10).

Altogether I now have an insulated 33 litre Mash Tun for an outlay of about �£5. I will let you know how well it works when I do a brew next week.