Mash temp for 80/-

[bolty]

I'm planning on brewing an 80/- this weekend with the following ingredients (23L length).

Belgian Aromatic 0.14 kilograms
Black Patent 0.06 kilograms
Crystal 80 0.45 kilograms
Marris Otter 4.08 kilograms
Melanoidin 0.23 kilograms
Scottish Peated 0.07 kilograms
EK Golding 42.52 grams

Unfortunately the recipe did not have a mash temp/length. As it's my 3rd AG, I was wondering if anyone has some advice. I was thinking of 66-67 for 1 hour? Want to check before ruining a nice sounding beer :wha:

 

[Wez]

Scottish beers have more body so 68 may be a good temp to go for :thumb:

 

[BrewStew]

i can recommend 68'c also as that's my sweet spot for full bodied beers.

not that i've been hitting 68'c on the new system yet though

"must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" "must sort out a HERMS" :lol:

 

[bolty]

Cheers for the advice. Will post a full 'brewday' with piccies once done.

Time for another Czech Mate Porter, I think. :drink:

HERMS definately looks the way forward to me (as a rank amateur)... But is it the end of the slippery slope or the beginning of another one? :hmm:

 

[BrewStew]

HERMS or RIMS definitely appears to be mandatory for 10gal + systems.

to get clear runnings i need to recirculate the runnings of my mash tun with 20kg of grain for at least 45 mins (better if it's the full mash duration)... and because the wort is flowing through uninsulated braided hoses and copper tubing, i lose 4-5'c over a 90 mins mash

up to 10 gals you should be ok though

 

[Wez]

HERMS or RIMS definitely appears to be mandatory for 10gal + systems

I need a HERMS then :lol:

 

[BrewStew]

:lol:

didn't you tell me you were having odd mash temps and extraction rates last time i came over :wha:

 

[A T]

(better if it's the full mash duration)

You need to give the bed 10 mins to settle or it's gonna be a right mess

 

[Wez]

Only on the 1st 2 brews, all good since :thumb:

HERMS / RIMS systems are superb, I wouldn't knock one till I tried one - but i'm brewing consistently good 60L - 65L batches without.......at the moment.

I'll move that route in the future though more out of interest than necessity.

 

[BrewStew]

(better if it's the full mash duration)

You need to give the bed 10 mins to settle or it's gonna be a right mess

not had a problem yet... *touches wood* but then there's always the first time... i dont fancy trying to blow up the spout of a 70L mashtun to push out a stuck sparge though so i'll keep that in mind for the next time :thumb: cheers :thumb:

 

[BrewStew]

Only on the 1st 2 brews, all good since :thumb:

HERMS / RIMS systems are superb, I wouldn't knock one till I tried one - but i'm brewing consistently good 60L - 65L batches without.......at the moment.

I'll move that route in the future though more out of interest than necessity.

ahh, your mastun is different to mine though... you're grain bed isn't as deep so less grain to pull the cloudy water through

dont get a thermobox if you're placcy mashtun works mate :thumb: i've had a nightmare with strike temps and maintaining mash temps with mine :?

 

[Vossy1]

HERMS and RIMS are fun to play with, but far from mandatory.
The larger the mash volume, the more thermally stable the mash is, so you could say, the larger your system the less likely the need for any form of external mash temperature control.
Don't let me put you off though, a HERMS or RIMS is a great way of finding out how deep your pocket is :lol:

Seriously though, a H or R system allows you to play with your mash temps far more easily than any manual 'hit and miss' method. Hell, even strike temps aren't that inportant as the recirc soon sorts any problems out, assuming you haven't denatured your enzymes with too high a temp.

I love my HERMS system, it makes my brew day that little bit more fun

 

[BrewStew]

The larger the mash volume, the more thermally stable the mash is

sorry, yes.. that is true.. if i dont recirculate during the mash, it stays stable (to within 0.5'c infact!)... but my problem is i need to recirc for 45 mins to an hour to get clear runnings, so i figure i may aswell do this during the mash. of course the trade off in doing this without a HERMS and with non insulated piping is i lose 4-5'c in mash temperature.

sorry i should've been more clear

 

[Vossy1]

but my problem is i need to recirc for 45 mins to an hour to get clear runnings

Why does it take so long, and what flow rate are you using to clear the mash ?

My recirc clears after 10 mins, independent of the grist size.

 

[Frisp]

Boys Boys you are talking all dirty again...... Im off to the brewporn shop to look at Totton pumps an SS disconnects........

 

[BrewStew]

Why does it take so long,

fecked if i know :lol:

what flow rate are you using to clear the mash

at a guess, between 1 and 2 litres per minute.

 

[steve_flack]

I'm planning on brewing an 80/- this weekend with the following ingredients (23L length).

Belgian Aromatic 0.14 kilograms
Black Patent 0.06 kilograms
Crystal 80 0.45 kilograms
Marris Otter 4.08 kilograms
Melanoidin 0.23 kilograms
Scottish Peated 0.07 kilograms
EK Golding 42.52 grams

That's an American recipe isn't it? I can tell from the presence of peated malt (and the presence of everything but the kitchen sink in it). For some reason the Yanks used to think (some still do) that Scottish beers have peated malt in them. My advice is NEVER to use that stuff in anything. It's easily capable of overpowering everything with it's crappy phenolics.

 

[Vossy1]

at a guess, between 1 and 2 litres per minute

2ltr/min should be more than adquate to get clear runnings. Do a dummy run and test the flow rate :thumb:

It's easily capable of overpowering everything with it's crappy phenolics.

 

[bolty]

I have got the peated now... Ordered the 70g needed but got sent 700g! Don't really want to chuck it. Does everyone hate peated malt? Is there anything I could use it in? I feel kind of bad wasting ?good? malt!

Should I try the recipe, but reduce the peated?