Looking for a boiler recommendation

[VinceVega]

Hello All

I have been using the Brupaks electric boiler for three years.

Those of you used have it will know that the element is becomes tarnished quickly and needs to be thoroughly scrubbed and boiled in a vinegar solution regularly to prevent it cutting out at about 80 degrees. So I'm planning on keeping it for mashing and sparging only and getting a new boiler for the boil.

I'm looking for one that uses electricity to heat and crucially keeps the wort separate from the heating element. 30 to 50 litres would be fine.

When browsing boilers online, it is often difficult to confirm this. So I thought I would use my first post here to see what fellow brewers would recommend.

Thank you

 

[Godfather50]

I bought a 60 litre euro bucket from the Copper Kettle and they fitted two heating elements. Used it for two years and could not be happier. No separation of hops. But I use a bazooka filter which works fine. I give the elements a brief scrub each use. No cutting out.

I brew about 25l and am glad of the 60l at hot break. Never had a boil over but it has been close.

 

[strange-steve]

Would you consider making an electric boiler by fitting an element to a 33L FV? It's very cheap and simple to do. It doesn't separate the wort from the element but I've been using this for about 50 brews and as long as the element is cleaned after each brew it doesn't tarnish or blacken.

Ps. Another piece of advice, always take your uzi with you when you go to the loo.

 

[serum]

Self building is good and cheap if you have the tools. I made quite a good one from a stock pot and two tesco value kettle elements. Later added thermometer and sight glass to it. Works really well. There are loads of guides to help.

Many others use commercial urns with hidden elements. Those can be good too although some need tweaks.

 

[BarnBrian]

Would you consider making an electric boiler by fitting an element to a 33L FV? It's very cheap and simple to do. It doesn't separate the wort from the element but I've been using this for about 50 brews and as long as the element is cleaned after each brew it doesn't tarnish or blacken.

Ps. Another piece of advice, always take your uzi with you when you go to the loo.

What if he's firing blanks?:whistle:

 

[dps51]

I started of with a beer kits from wilko then biab with a 50ltr pot on the stove top
which swmbo did not like much so moved on to a one pot system
so now I have a ace micro brewery system
wished I have got this in the first place grate bit of shiny system

 

[MickDundee]

I've got one of the Ace boilers and like it a lot. The element is concealed under the base and it gets a good rolling boil:

 

[VinceVega]

Ps. Another piece of advice, always take your uzi with you when you go to the loo.

:thumb:
I never put the uzi down now (except when dancing with Mia!)

Anyway I think the Ace boiler seems to be the way to go for me as I don't want to risk a leaking self-made boiler!

Thanks to all for advice.
VinceVega

 

[foxbat]

I'm looking for one that uses electricity to heat and crucially keeps the wort separate from the heating element. 30 to 50 litres would be fine.

Induction is the most efficient way to do this. It's not cheap though. The parts you'd need are:

The induction hob. I've seen the Buffalo 3kW hob on Amazon recommended.

A vessel with a ferrous base, or at least a ferrous/aluminium sandwich. SS Brewing do a range that will work with induction.

 

[BeerCat]

Nisbits were selling 40l boilers recently for under a ton. Concealed element. A bargain.

 

[Fore]

Maybe I'm too late. I guess we all sing the praises of the one we have, and I've only ever had one to experience. But I bought my 40l Buffalo a few years ago and it works like a dream. Refitted tap & Bazooka. I did the research and modded the cut-out switch and the fuse (upped, not removed). Still had some cutting out; turned out to be the thermostat topping out, so I moved the temp gauge away from the element and now, on rolling boil, the thermostat clicks about half way through the dial travel, so nowhere near topping out. I should mention that the element, supposedly 2.6 kW, seemed to struggle to reach a rolling boil. In hindsight I was probably being picky, but I did add an extra 1.5 kW element. So if it is working to full wattage, it's a 4.1 kW unit. I could probably get away with running only the main concealed element, but I run both for a rapid start and strong rolling boil, and get 19% boil off in 75 minutes. Clean-up is a doddle. I use just a sprinkle of powdered citric acid in as little water as possible, leave a few minutes, and everything wipes off like new. The pain was the initial modding, but in use it's great.

 

[VinceVega]

Thanks for your advice Fore.
Just to be sure, this is the one you mean?
https://www.nisbets.co.uk/buffalo-manual-fill-water-boiler/gl349

I shouldn't have too much trouble fitting the bazooka and tap.
Although your recommendations about moving the thermostat and fitting another element might stretch my skills a bit.

Can't complain about the price though!

 

[Fil]

Thanks for your advice Fore.
Just to be sure, this is the one you mean?
https://www.nisbets.co.uk/buffalo-manual-fill-water-boiler/gl349

I shouldn't have too much trouble fitting the bazooka and tap.
Although your recommendations about moving the thermostat and fitting another element might stretch my skills a bit.

Can't complain about the price though!

while electricity is deserving of respect and caution, the bypassing or even upgrading of a thermal switch is a very simple job.
its a bolt on device attached to the underside base of the pot or element,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4PCS-KSD3...211557?hash=item1c68cae4a5:g:Z~8AAOSwB-1Y1SYM
not very expensive.

to simply bypass use a good quality ceramic connector to join the wires that connect to it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CERAMIC-C...hash=item463f0f66b1:m:mlgCG7rr3zf_Tp0Df7m_3TA

take your time and be sure what your doing and ensure you pull the plug first and it should be a cake walk, If you get stuck tho post a pic for clarification

 

[Fore]

Thanks for your advice Fore.
Just to be sure, this is the one you mean?
https://www.nisbets.co.uk/buffalo-manual-fill-water-boiler/gl349

I shouldn't have too much trouble fitting the bazooka and tap.
Although your recommendations about moving the thermostat and fitting another element might stretch my skills a bit.

Can't complain about the price though!

Hi. I bought mine some years ago now, and they have changed the design since, so I can't testify for that exact model, but as far as I understand, it is pretty much the same thing. Although "40l", the actual max. mark is 36l; 40l is near the rim. I also had no idea about the upgrades necessary and electronics baffles me. It took me a few goes to get it right, but all is good. I found tutorials on the forums. Basically there is a dial thermostat, a thermal switch (as shown in Fil's pics), and a fuse. You can regulate the thermostat, but in fact we want it on all the time, so best to just move the metal temp probe away from the base somewhere. The thermal switch clicks off when it reaches over temp, then switches back on. The thing is, with rolling boil it can/does reach this switch point, so I bought a switch with a higher switch point (it was really cheap). Then there is a final fail safe, a fuse which blows (no coming back from that other than buying a new fuse). Although a small risk, to reduce the chance of it popping mid-boil, I swapped out for a fuse some degrees higher. Can't remember the exact temp upgrades off the top of my head, but advice is easy to find on the forums. Just be sure to use a ceramic connector.

Goes without saying that it's at your own risk, and voids warranty.

The tap hole needed enlarging to fit a standard brew tap. I bought a Q-max for that.

 

[Fore]

My brewday, and my profile pic in fact. The element you see is the one I added, and probably not necessary.