Life of beer - with and without sediment

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Kevin Wood

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A little question I've been pondering. Normally, if I brew a batch to dispense from a pressure barrel (King Keg), I fill the barrel straight from the primary FV, prime it with a sugar solution and leave it to condition in the warm, then to clear in the cold before consuming it. I get sediment in the barrel, but it doesn't get disturbed sitting in my garage, so it works fine.

I've promised to make a couple of beers for my cousin's wedding where I'm unlikely to be able to set the keg up to settle for long before dispensing, hence I need to avoid sediment as far as possible. I've brewed the beers and, instead of priming the kegs, filled them from the FV, purged the head space and then pressurised with CO2 from a S30 cylinder and left them to clear. Closer to the time (end of June) I'll maybe transfer them to clean kegs to remove anything that's settled out and, again, purge and pressurise them for dispense with an S30.

I realise that carbonation might be a little lacking, but the beers seem lively enough so far, and they aren't lagers so don't really need to be overly carbonated.

I remember from the days when I used to get polypins of beer from breweries that the beer went off very quickly if it was supplied "bright" as opposed to sedimented.

I've been wondering if I'll encounter a similar issue? I guess what I'm doing is not much different to dispensing from a corny, albeit that I can't use as much pressure to carbonate, but what about the keeping properties of a beer treated in this way? Is it simply that "bright" beer from a brewery has been fined so aggressively that it's completely "dead", or is it that it's been exposed to air when filling the polypin?
 
I'd be inclined to get yourself a couple of Polypins, they can be got in various sizes up to about 23L. When you want to take the beer to the event a couple of days before syphon the beer from your FV into the plypins and add a little priming sugar. You will not have transferred the yeast slurry (or not much of it anyway) and you should get some lightly conditioned ale for the party. Because they are squashy sided you can press on them to get the last of the beer out.
 
Yep, polypins did occur to me as well. :thumb:

That would mean I won't have to mess about injecting CO2 on the day, for a start, and, as you say, easier to get the last drops out.

I guess the advantage of taking it in a keg might be that it will keep longer if it doesn't all get drunk (some hope!).
 
Firstly is your beer bright when it goes into the keg? I would get it as bright as possible before kegging, ie use a secondary, ferment for 7-10 days then drop into a secondary avoiding any yeast and then leaving it in a secondary somewhere cool for a further 7 - 10 days and if need be fine as well. Then keg and prime.

Not sure if you can force carbonate in a pressure barrel though if you do not want to naturally carbonate.
 
They're currently in kegs but I think what I'll do is regard this as a secondary fermentation, then, in another couple of weeks, chill them to preserve conditioning, rack them off into either clean kegs and take a view on whether priming is necessary then.
 
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