Larger temp and 2nd fermentation control

[kimosabby]

Gents (and ladies if there are any here)

couple of quick questions:

Got a Coopers Selection Pilsner (the blue label one) just started couple of days ago. Used a can of Coopers liquid light malt extrct AND muntons 500g Light Spray Malt. All seems well and fermenting at about 18degrees. It seems it comes with a larger yeast and advises a lower fermentation temp. Is 18degrees ok for a kit with a larger yeast? There is some head on top of wort but not as much as usual for a Coopers kit. I presume that at a lower temp like 18 ( I usually do 20-21) fermentation is slower. How long should I allow for fermentation at 18degrees?

Also should there be a lower temp for initial second fermentation in bottles as its a larger yeast or is above 20 ok as usual?

One last thing; I was thinking of getting a heating tray for initial second fermentation for carbonation. How can I best use this tray for approx 35 bottles as it is too small to take that amount. I do have a second fridge freezer which I no longer use in the garage. Can this be used with the tray? Or just I ut the tray in a cardboard box with the bottles?

As always thanks in advance

Kimosabby

 

[ericmark]

I tried and failed doing a kit Lager at lower temperature. The kit said 20ºC like any other kit so I bought some Youngs Larger yeast instead and tried at lower temperatures. However easy in hind sight kits use tap water so need the alcohol to stop any natural yeast or bugs getting a hold so you need that higher activity to produce the alcohol before any natural yeast or bugs getting a hold.

I have found 18ºC measured on fermentor stick on strip or air temperature is fine, but 18ºC measured using a sensor under a sponge pressed against the fermentor side is a bit low. There can be as much as 2ºC difference between methods of measuring. Stick on thermometers measure some where between room and fermentor temperature as to read there is no insulation stopping it reading room temperature.

At 18ºC on stick on strip the activity gradually slows as the real temperature of the brew falls. Set at 19.5ºC with sensor pressed against the fermentor wall under an insulating sponge activity seems to carry on at same pace until near the end of fermenting.

As to keeping bottles warm I never bother I just leave for a long time before drinking. However I use a old demo under floor heating tile and before I had a temperature controller I found with even just 18W it could go well over temperature required. I was surprised how little heat is required to keep my freezer compartment of fridge/freezer in garage to 20ºC it has an 8W CFL globe bulb I had intended to fit a second but one has been ample to maintain the temperature even in a unheated garage. The temperature controller even in coldest conditions to date has kept it at 20ºC. Not a clue how hot it would go without the controller?

At 19.5ºC I find it takes about 21 days. At 18ºC measured with stick on I would estimate 28 days. At 12ºC which was what I tried i.e. temperature of garage in winter it was not complete as summer arrived and when it did it was undrinkable.

 

[kimosabby]

cheers for that dude.

Nothings ever simple in this business. What sort of temp controller did you use and is that a special type of bulb you mentioned?

Kimosabby

 

[ericmark]

I have two temperature controllers. MH1210A was the first, really a mistake wanted a STC 1000 which was the second I got. Very similar the MH1210A will either heat or cool not both and the STC 1000 will heat and cool. The MH1210A has a droop of 0.1ºC and the STC 1000 has a droop of 0.3ºC.

The bulb was a compact fluorescent which one does not consider gives off much heat. But clearly enough.

 

[Twostage]

I have two temperature controllers. MH1210A was the first, really a mistake wanted a STC 1000 which was the second I got. Very similar the MH1210A will either heat or cool not both and the STC 1000 will heat and cool. The MH1210A has a droop of 0.1ºC and the STC 1000 has a droop of 0.3ºC.

The bulb was a compact fluorescent which one does not consider gives off much heat. But clearly enough.

I'd avoid compact fluorescent, fluorescent can 'skunk your beer' if you use a DJ or other see-through FV (or clear bottles which are carbonating). Plus, as you note, they don't give out much heat. Stick to incandescent (which are getting difficult to get these days so I bought a stock).

 

[kimosabby]

Just an update. Its been in for 11 days now and has come down from 1053 to 1011. It was actually 1012 after day 7. I used 500g light spray malt and a can of coopers liquid malt so there was a little more sugar in than advised. Also short brewed to 22l. The temp started at about 20 and has been slwowly coming down mostly at 18 and now 17. The room its in will remain at about that temp.

Whilst that seems to be ok it was still very cloudy in the trial jar particuarly for a Coopers kit. I presuming and as was said earlier, that it will take 3-4 weeks. Is that extra length of time for a larger yeast just to clear or will there be further fermentation going on.

I was thinking of giving it a stir and raising temp up to 20 with a belt? Is that adviseable?

Ive not tasted it but it smells like a larger

Kimosabby

 

[JapanBrew]

It looks fine. Many kits actually don't have lager yeast but a type of ale yeast. The temps are safer that way.
But down to 1011, that's good. Are you going to let is sit longer to see if it gets lower?
Most of my beers I bottle around that level.

 

[kimosabby]

Was going to leave it for at least another week so that would make 3. I dont usually leave them longer than 2 weeks but this is the first one ive made with larger yeast.

Do you think its worth raising temp a little and stirring?

I was going to dry hop with 100g of Saaz for last 3-4 days in FV

 

[marinali29]

:grin: I just found inkbird ITC-308 in homebrew talk, it's hot there and have good customer review. And there in HBT, I found giveaway from Inkbird of this product which sell on amazon.

cheers for that dude.

Nothings ever simple in this business. What sort of temp controller did you use and is that a special type of bulb you mentioned?

Kimosabby

 

[marinali29]

ericmark, I got ITC-1000, which seems better than STC-1000, all other parameters are the same, but there's C and F display on ITC-1000, while there's just F display on Stc-1000.:mrgreen::mrgreen:

I have two temperature controllers. MH1210A was the first, really a mistake wanted a STC 1000 which was the second I got. Very similar the MH1210A will either heat or cool not both and the STC 1000 will heat and cool. The MH1210A has a droop of 0.1ºC and the STC 1000 has a droop of 0.3ºC.

The bulb was a compact fluorescent which one does not consider gives off much heat. But clearly enough.

 

[marinali29]

If you are an electrician, ITC-1000 (DIY temperature controller) is recommended. If not, maybe you can try ITC-308, it's a pre-wired temoerature controller UK socket,just plug in and use, no need to wire yourself.:grin:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018K0UKZQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

cheers for that dude.

Nothings ever simple in this business. What sort of temp controller did you use and is that a special type of bulb you mentioned?

Kimosabby

 

[McMullan]

If you are an electrician, ITC-1000 (DIY temperature controller) is recommended. If not, maybe you can try ITC-308, it's a pre-wired temoerature controller UK socket,just plug in and use, no need to wire yourself.:grin:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018K0UKZQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The ITC-308 looks really handy for home brewers :thumb: Am I right thinking the double socket has one heat and one cool outlet? Pretty good price too. I did my own using an ATC800. If I put a price on it, it definitely cost me a lot more than one of these ITC-308s. I like it. :hat:

 

[marinali29]

:lol::lol:

Yes,a good price with thermostat socket,which is much convenient than a DIY thermostat such as STC-1000.

There're 2 relay on ITC-308, 1 for heating and 1 for cooling, which work at the same time. If you need 2 relays of heating, I recommend ITC-306, both 2 sockets are for heating, this ofen use in pet/animal breeding,such as such as Reptile,turtle,snake and other small animals. Also widely used in germination,aquarium, hatching, fungi fermentation and seed germination acceleration, etc

For more details information, you can find it on amazon, I got all information from homebrew talk at the beginning. :grin:

The ITC-308 looks really handy for home brewers :thumb: Am I right thinking the double socket has one heat and one cool outlet? Pretty good price too. I did my own using an ATC800. If I put a price on it, it definitely cost me a lot more than one of these ITC-308s. I like it. :hat: