Klarstein Mundschenk

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hi can you guys help with my water calculations.

im trying to make 6 gallons of 1048 wort. the recipe calls for 11 lbs of grain plus 2 oz of rice hulls. the dead space is huge on these things and last time i used it i had to add about a gallon of water to my mash volume to fill the pipe up enough to dough in. and now i am having trouble calculating for my next batch.

my plan was to bring 6 gallons of water to 175 in hte kettle. drain off 3 gallons and keep in preheated. oven for sparge. then i add back cool water to the kettle to bring the volume up to 4.5 gallons. i find that this usually brings my mash water back down to strike temps. plus or minus . this leaves a thin mash i know but last time i hit my numbers with 5 gallons in the pipe ( an even thinner mash) .

after mash out i sparge with the 3 gallons to get my preboil vulume up to about 7.25 gallons. this leaves for 1 gallon boil off and about .25 gallons in the kettle.

does this sound reasonable. last time my numbers were spot on. but i juggled water around and my notes show it. and now i cant figure out exactly what i did.

im fairly new at AG so please be gentle. 😉

thanks
 
On my robobrew 3 a 35litre size I used 2.5 to 3 litres per kg of grain in the mash.
Estimate 0.8 litres loss per kg of grain, subtract your boil off, then subtract kettle loss in trub. Then your sparge will be the difference between that final figure and your target volume.
 
On my robobrew 3 a 35litre size I used 2.5 to 3 litres per kg of grain in the mash.
Estimate 0.8 litres loss per kg of grain, subtract your boil off, then subtract kettle loss in trub. Then your sparge will be the difference between that final figure and your target volume.
Need to subtract off headspace too, otherwise the mash will be too thick.

Basically with the Mundschenk you end up with very little sparge water with medium-large marshes.
 
the dead space is huge on these things and last time i used it i had to add about a gallon of water to my mash volume to fill the pipe up enough to dough in. and now i am having trouble calculating for my next batch.

A trick is to turn on the pump to recirculate some water up to the top to help with doughing in.

It also is essential to stir during the mash to prevent channelling and increase efficiency. Also a good idea to keep the recirc pump use at a minimum (just enough to spread the heat around) during the mash to keep the enzymes happy and wait until mash-out to get it up to speed for a vorlauf. It might be an idea to delay adding the rice hulls until mash out to keep the mash thick. I've not been using rice hulls lately and just dealing with the very slow recirc/sparge but might start trying them again.
 
I upgraded to a plate chiller. Only about £22.58 from Aliexpress and a few pounds each for the various fittings. I went for male camlock to hose barb. Then 2x plastic male hoselock and 2 x 1/2" male BSP hose barbs. Using 10mm ID x 14mm OD from the camlock to the barb. Running the tap water on full and pump about half speed it drops the temp from the 80C to 20C like magic. Water and wort flow in reverse. Only thing that is a pain is getting the last drops of water out of it after cleaning it out, thinking of putting it in the oven to dry it out. I reckon it knocked about an hour off the brew day so very happy.

1/2" BSP Female Port 10/18 Plate Brazed Heater Exchanger 304 Stainless Cooling Condenser Water Steam Oil Chiller Wort Homebrew
10 Plates
Total: $28.74

1/2 3/4 1-1/4 304 Stainless Steel Homebrew Camlock Fitting Adapter MPT FPT Barb Camlock Quick Disconnect For Hose Pumps Fittings
E, 1/2"
Total:£2.58

BSP Male Thread Pipe Fitting to 6 8 10 12mm 1/8" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" Barb Hose Tail Reducer Fitting Multi Size Stainless Steel 304
12mm tube, 1/2"
£1.66x2
Total:£3.78

2PCS Threaded Tap Adaptor 1/2 Inch BSP Garden Water Hose Quick Pipe Connector Fitting Garden Irrigation System Parts Adapters
£0.06
x2 (It's a 2 pack oops so only needed 1)
Total: £2.11

Food Grade Clear Translucent Silicone Tube Beer Milk Hose Pipe Soft Rubber
10mm ID x 14mm OD
£7.99 now ouch, I paid £5.89 back in Feb 2023
In the photo this is the tube from kettle to chiller.
From chiller to fermenter is an old tube I had, malt miller's 12mm ID x 15mm OD I believe, so I needed to use a larger hose barb.

IMG_5707.jpeg
Photo taken just before filling the fermenter.
 
I upgraded to a plate chiller. Only about £22.58 from Aliexpress and a few pounds each for the various fittings. I went for male camlock to hose barb. Then 2x plastic male hoselock and 2 x 1/2" male BSP hose barbs. Using 10mm ID x 14mm OD from the camlock to the barb. Running the tap water on full and pump about half speed it drops the temp from the 80C to 20C like magic. Water and wort flow in reverse. Only thing that is a pain is getting the last drops of water out of it after cleaning it out, thinking of putting it in the oven to dry it out. I reckon it knocked about an hour off the brew day so very happy.

1/2" BSP Female Port 10/18 Plate Brazed Heater Exchanger 304 Stainless Cooling Condenser Water Steam Oil Chiller Wort Homebrew
10 Plates
Total: $28.74

1/2 3/4 1-1/4 304 Stainless Steel Homebrew Camlock Fitting Adapter MPT FPT Barb Camlock Quick Disconnect For Hose Pumps Fittings
E, 1/2"
Total:£2.58

BSP Male Thread Pipe Fitting to 6 8 10 12mm 1/8" 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" Barb Hose Tail Reducer Fitting Multi Size Stainless Steel 304
12mm tube, 1/2"
£1.66x2
Total:£3.78

2PCS Threaded Tap Adaptor 1/2 Inch BSP Garden Water Hose Quick Pipe Connector Fitting Garden Irrigation System Parts Adapters
£0.06
x2 (It's a 2 pack oops so only needed 1)
Total: £2.11

Food Grade Clear Translucent Silicone Tube Beer Milk Hose Pipe Soft Rubber
10mm ID x 14mm OD
£7.99 now ouch, I paid £5.89 back in Feb 2023
In the photo this is the tube from kettle to chiller.
From chiller to fermenter is an old tube I had, malt miller's 12mm ID x 15mm OD I believe, so I needed to use a larger hose barb.

View attachment 94607
Photo taken just before filling the fermenter.
The issue with this is running the pump post boil. How do you prevent blockages?
 
A trick is to turn on the pump to recirculate some water up to the top to help with doughing in.

It also is essential to stir during the mash to prevent channelling and increase efficiency. Also a good idea to keep the recirc pump use at a minimum (just enough to spread the heat around) during the mash to keep the enzymes happy and wait until mash-out to get it up to speed for a vorlauf. It might be an idea to delay adding the rice hulls until mash out to keep the mash thick. I've not been using rice hulls lately and just dealing with the very slow recirc/sparge but might start trying them again.
theres alot fo info in here to digest . thank you.
The issue with this is running the pump post boil. How do you prevent blockages?
yeah i dont run my pump post boil cause im terrified of blocking it and having to open up my baby.

i just like to think its nice and clean in there and sediment free after each use. 😉
 
i hate that i cant read my aio volume without removing the grain basket especially when spraging.
any one add one of these to the tap or do yuo see any issue with adding one
thanks

1706365381563.png
 
i hate that i cant read my aio volume without removing the grain basket especially when spraging.
any one add one of these to the tap or do yuo see any issue with adding one
thanks

View attachment 95140
I have looked at something like this
But replacement of the pump outlet (its then part of the wart circulation)
Kegland have a polycarbonate sight glass GEN 3 BrewZilla 35L & 65L Polycarbonate Sight Glass Kit

But no idea if it fits🤷‍♂️
I missed up my last brew with way too much sparge water and not enough time to boil it all off.
 
I have looked at something like this
But replacement of the pump outlet (its then part of the wart circulation)
Kegland have a polycarbonate sight glass GEN 3 BrewZilla 35L & 65L Polycarbonate Sight Glass Kit

But no idea if it fits🤷‍♂️
I missed up my last brew with way too much sparge water and not enough time to boil it all off.
no this one goes on the tap between the tap and the kettle not connected to the pump outlet.

the polycarbonate sight glass from bz fits but i have heard its **** and breaks/ snaps often at the connections.

yes the sparge is a pain when you cant see the volume. thats why i figure this will solve that problem.
thanks
 
If it's not connected to the pump it will have a volume of wort not circulating during the mash and boil. This will drain into the fermenter at the and of the boil and may harbor some infection?
 
Personally all of my water calculations are done by Brewfather. Whenever a brew volume was out I tweaked the equipment profile, now it’s in a happy place and I can trust the process.

I think the part linked just connects inline with the tap which would be okay as long as the tap still seals. The full bore tap I bought to go on the klarstein is unused as I couldn’t make it seal.
 
Personally all of my water calculations are done by Brewfather. Whenever a brew volume was out I tweaked the equipment profile, now it’s in a happy place and I can trust the process.

I think the part linked just connects inline with the tap which would be okay as long as the tap still seals. The full bore tap I bought to go on the klarstein is unused as I couldn’t make it seal.
My mistake with sparge volume has made me think I just need to be more mindful to check the volume on the sparge heater.

I'm hoping the next brew will be a little more controlled.
 
Personally all of my water calculations are done by Brewfather. Whenever a brew volume was out I tweaked the equipment profile, now it’s in a happy place and I can trust the process.

I think the part linked just connects inline with the tap which would be okay as long as the tap still seals. The full bore tap I bought to go on the klarstein is unused as I couldn’t make it seal.
That what I rely on too. I've never measured the volumes other than mash and sparge input! If I'm a few hundred ml out, then I don't really care.. I'll win some and lose some in both the kettle and fermenter and I don't suppose a little here and there actually matters.
 
I use BF to and that all worked out OK.
I saw a you tube video from Kee at Kegland where they have a new tube kit coming to market that will act as a sight glass. It is a cut to fit so would fit any boiler aio with a return pump and camlocks.
 
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