King Keg not holding pressure but no apparent leak

[terrym]

Yep swap my shoddy valve for my mates and rack away. His is working just fine so I’m happy.

If your 'shoddy valve' is a new one you should be going back to your supplier and asking for a replacement. I certainly would.

 

[El Ceetee]

If your 'shoddy valve' is a new one you should be going back to your supplier and asking for a replacement. I certainly would.

It’s been used about three times. One of those was my last effort that seemed to go ok. But didn’t know much about them. Before that it was a friends who used it a couple of times and got fed up with brewing I took it off his hands. The reason I tested the PB properly this time is cause I thought it was using a few too many c02 bulbs last/first time I used it. Could’ve been my impatience. I was in the dark really and didn’t do too much research. Now I’ve started reading up and seems there is too much information. Haha.
When I dunked it under water last night there were no bubbles at all. It wasn’t until I tried to do the dry test that it all f@rked up.
I’ve got the IPA in the PB now, priming sugar and a squirt of C02 and it’s sitting just under 6psi on the gauge at a current temp of 13c and hasn’t budged for an hour. So I’m happy there are no leaks in it.
I’m not sure if this is right at all, pure novice here. I’m a simpleton. So much conflicting info it seems it’s a try and try again scenario. Now that I’ve got that one legged I can crack on with the next beer kit, Rajas Reward IPA. Seems pretty damn easy. I might have to get another PB. Maybe not a king keg but. Any thoughts on the 2” neck bottom tap ones?

 

[terrym]

Any thoughts on the 2” neck bottom tap ones?

You have not really asked the right person, or perhaps you have!!!
I have had four new 2" top opening PBs and they all failed within 2 years. I have given up on them.
My advice to anyone considering buying any sort of PB is avoid, they are more trouble than they are worth, although others will disagree strongly.
In the end you will make your mind up about them, as have others, which seems to be split evenly between those who like them albeit with fixes to make them usable, and those who, like me, have tried but given up due to recurring leaks and failures
So in your case I suggest you back off spending your hard earned on any form of PB until you have had chance to find out how you feel about them based on your experience.

 

[cushyno]

OP has said it comes out from the pin valve when he removes the CO2 bulb. So it is the seal at '5' which is leaking.

I've had both dirt/swarf stuck in the pin that prevented co2 entering the barrel, and co2 escaping from the pin, but not at the same time.

@kelper is spot on, it is the non-return seal that is either not seated correctly, or faulty. Swarf or rough edges to the hole from manufacture could also cause the rubber not to seal. Remove the rubber, inspect the rubber for imperfections or cuts. Inspect the spigot for sharp edges or dirt and clean. Vaseline the rubber and replace, making sure it sits correctly.

 

[El Ceetee]

I've had both dirt/swarf stuck in the pin that prevented co2 entering the barrel, and co2 escaping from the pin, but not at the same time.

@kelper is spot on, it is the non-return seal that is either not seated correctly, or faulty. Swarf or rough edges to the hole from manufacture could also cause the rubber not to seal. Remove the rubber, inspect the rubber for imperfections or cuts. Inspect the spigot for sharp edges or dirt and clean. Vaseline the rubber and replace, making sure it sits correctly.

I've pulled it apart and there was something stuck in the hole behind the rubber, took some shaking and 'light' tapping to dislodge it. Hopefully that is the issue. I'll test it when I have some more c02 bulbs and let yous know the outcome.
Thanks for all the input.

 

[El Ceetee]

So in your case I suggest you back off spending your hard earned on any form of PB until you have had chance to find out how you feel about them based on your experience.

Unfortunately, due to lack of space, this is the best option for me.

 

[Sandozer]

Yeah I checked the rubber and it seems fine, no splits.
I’ve actually managed to dig out some of the metal cartridge from the pin and can see more in there but just can’t get it out. I’m assuming it’s sticking the pin open slightly letting the air back out? Is that how they work? The pressure from the cartridge forces it open then shuts again once all the gas is released?

No, the non return valve is the rubber on the S30 valve on top of the lid. The pin piercing part is just that, no valve there.

 

[cushyno]

I've pulled it apart and there was something stuck in the hole behind the rubber, took some shaking and 'light' tapping to dislodge it. Hopefully that is the issue. I'll test it when I have some more c02 bulbs and let yous know the outcome.
Thanks for all the input.

At least you found something. I here it when there's nothing to blame, no smoking gun. Make sure the edges of the hole are smooth, no burrs.

 

[Buffers brewery]

I've pulled it apart and there was something stuck in the hole behind the rubber, took some shaking and 'light' tapping to dislodge it. Hopefully that is the issue. I'll test it when I have some more c02 bulbs and let yous know the outcome.
Thanks for all the input.

I recommend buying some spare rubber bands for the pressure relief and non-return valves while you’re buying CO2.

 

[Tanglefoot]

I bought two new king keg tops with pin valves to upgrade my old Boots barrels.
One worked fine first time no problem, the other leaked bubbling from the valve like the OP's.
In the end after as much tinkering as I could bear I reverted back to my original Boots top halfway through a barrel, reprimed with sugar and have just enjoyed the last drawing which was still well carbed with a decent head.
Also ends up a little higher ABV which is no bad thing in my book

 

[Buffers brewery]

I bought two new king keg tops with pin valves to upgrade my old Boots barrels.
One worked fine first time no problem, the other leaked bubbling from the valve like the OP's.
In the end after as much tinkering as I could bear I reverted back to my original Boots top halfway through a barrel, reprimed with sugar and have just enjoyed the last drawing which was still well carbed with a decent head.
Also ends up a little higher ABV which is no bad thing in my book

The Hambleton Bard valve is a bit of a con IMHO. At first I thought it was a bit of nifty value engineering cos it “should” work. But experience proved otherwise. I ditched it eventually, using a Schrader valve and separate pressure vent valve. After lockdown experience of getting hold of S30 refills, I’m moving away from S30 Brewgas cylinder and fitting corni gas post and investing in a 6.35kg CO2 cylinder.

 

[Buffers brewery]

Vaseline the rubber and replace, making sure it sits correctly.

Be careful where you put vaseline. If it’s natural rubber, it doesn’t like Vaseline. If it’s synthetic rubber you’re ok.