bigbud78
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I ordered one's with 100mm shanks http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152215831565?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
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After thinking that I would have a fridge within a week of the original post, I finally picked one up last week. I already bought the kegs and sourced co2, but no taps, lines or regulator/manifold yet, which will have to wait until pay day.
Here it is in its current state.
Kegs are a bit of a tight fit, depth wise. I have had to shave off some of the plastic from the door, which is covered with white duct tape in the picture and even then you have to really get everything in the right position for the door to close easily. The issue here is the plastic moulding at the back of the fridge leading to the drain hole, for catching moisture at the back of the fridge. I won't cut any of this away but may end up raising the back kegs up an inch or two so they sit above it.
The back two kegs are sitting on the compressor hump, which isn't deep enough to support them, so without the gas and front keg in there they would just fall over. Next job is to look at building a small shelf to support them properly. Tempted to order a cut piece of poly-carbonate sheet to do this rather than wood, for the wipe clean aspect.
Here it is in its current state.
Kegs are a bit of a tight fit, depth wise. I have had to shave off some of the plastic from the door, which is covered with white duct tape in the picture and even then you have to really get everything in the right position for the door to close easily. The issue here is the plastic moulding at the back of the fridge leading to the drain hole, for catching moisture at the back of the fridge. I won't cut any of this away but may end up raising the back kegs up an inch or two so they sit above it.
The back two kegs are sitting on the compressor hump, which isn't deep enough to support them, so without the gas and front keg in there they would just fall over. Next job is to look at building a small shelf to support them properly. Tempted to order a cut piece of poly-carbonate sheet to do this rather than wood, for the wipe clean aspect.
Use a magnetic mounted drip tray so no drilling required and easily removed for cleaning.
Would a magnetic drip tray actually hold the weight of a full pint? Got any examples? A drip tray that is in stock at a reasonable price is something I am struggling to find.
It could but that depends on the strength of your magnet.
It's use is for a drip tray though if you're actually looking too hold a pint it would be wise to fasten to the door.
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Will have a think about it, it might be a stretch to get SWMBO to agree to have the co2 outside the fridge.
Been looking at this regulator - http://www.angelhomebrew.co.uk/en/kegging/216-two-keg-dual-gauge-gas-regulator.html
Which seems like a good price for what you get, anyone any experience?
My only concern is that it doesn't have check valves on the outputs, which in the right circumstances could lead to beer getting into it. Can they be bought separately? I am struggling to find any.
Which seems like a good price for what you get, anyone any experience?
My only concern is that it doesn't have check valves on the outputs, which in the right circumstances could lead to beer getting into it. Can they be bought separately? I am struggling to find any.
Crystal_Ball
Senior Member
That's a good start, thanks.
One last thing (for now at least) before I start buying stuff. I am going to buy these flow control taps previously mentioned. Do I need to reduce the diameter of the beer line or will I get enough control from the tap to avoid foaming?
Is 3/8" beer line quite stiff? As you can see from my previous picture the fridge isn't dedicated to kegs, the door will be opened frequently to get at other stuff. Will the beer line be flexible enough to allow this?
Thanks.
Is 3/8" beer line quite stiff? As you can see from my previous picture the fridge isn't dedicated to kegs, the door will be opened frequently to get at other stuff. Will the beer line be flexible enough to allow this?
Thanks.
It is flexible but not to the point where it will recover from being bent over on itself, as your door is hinged on the rightside i would route the lines round that side so that the length stays pretty much the same and use some sort of adhesive clip to keep them in place. Beer cellar installers use swept bend JG fittings instead of tight 90 degree bends to help with flow and reduce foaming,
The beer line size you need will depend on the beer tap shank and you may well need a reducing connector to adapt from 3/8th to 5/16th for example.
The beer line size you need will depend on the beer tap shank and you may well need a reducing connector to adapt from 3/8th to 5/16th for example.
bigbud78
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3/8th dont get foam due to the flow control on taps
bigbud78
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The line is quite stiff and very unruly, you will also need a gas line long enough to connect to the keg on the floor ideally or have a connection outside the fridge.
Dont need to drop line diameter for those taps, well I dont have an issue on about 1m length :)
Great, thanks for the info. Not sure what you mean when you say "to connect to the keg on the floor ideally or have a connection outside the fridge"?
Is the tap shank connection 3/8"? Do you have JG connectors on them or just the line pushed on, using any sort or jubilee clips or anything?
bigbud78
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I heated up the line in boiling water and pushed it on as far as possible, yes its 3/8". Tried Jubilee clips but they just pinched and caused leaks, there are another type they use in the industry but I didn't bother as they didn't leak.
Depending on your process, I fill my kegs up with starsan then push it all out with co2. This leaves me with a keg with no o2 in it, then push my beer in via gravity through the out post. The idea is your limiting o2 interaction.
Moving a full keg in and out the fridge is a PITA just to pressurize it, hence being able to connect the keg to gas outside the fridge can save your muscles :)
Construction has begun.
Just one tap on the fridge so far, took longer than expected due to the fridge not being anywhere near level to begin with, so I sorted that before starting so I didn't end up with everything being wonky when measuring it out. Also the heat generated by drilling the first tap cutout blunted the (cheap) holesaw I was using and I needed to nip to Screwfix to buy a replacement.
I bought the taps with the 98mm shank previously linked and they still weren't really long enough for the centre tap! With only 1 of the washers provided at the tightness required to get everything on and tight enough that I think it will seal the backnut has pulled the inside of the door in a bit, but I think it will be OK. If this turns out not to be the case I will cut out a square from inside, remove some insulation and put some wood in its place. The next taps should be better as the outside of the door is curved and the inside isn't, so the clamping distance should be less.
Unfortunately eBay seller has send me 2 taps with long shanks and 1 with a short one, so I won't be finishing the job this weekend. I will aim to do what I can and keg my current fermenting beer though, should be drinking something by next weekend!
Just one tap on the fridge so far, took longer than expected due to the fridge not being anywhere near level to begin with, so I sorted that before starting so I didn't end up with everything being wonky when measuring it out. Also the heat generated by drilling the first tap cutout blunted the (cheap) holesaw I was using and I needed to nip to Screwfix to buy a replacement.
I bought the taps with the 98mm shank previously linked and they still weren't really long enough for the centre tap! With only 1 of the washers provided at the tightness required to get everything on and tight enough that I think it will seal the backnut has pulled the inside of the door in a bit, but I think it will be OK. If this turns out not to be the case I will cut out a square from inside, remove some insulation and put some wood in its place. The next taps should be better as the outside of the door is curved and the inside isn't, so the clamping distance should be less.
Unfortunately eBay seller has send me 2 taps with long shanks and 1 with a short one, so I won't be finishing the job this weekend. I will aim to do what I can and keg my current fermenting beer though, should be drinking something by next weekend!
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