Keg dregs.

[Braufather]

Normally when keg kicks it’s been fine all the way to the last glass, with only the final half pint or less not being drinkable. With my last brew there were four full pints of trubby beer at the end. Thats a first for me.

I kegged after 13 days in fv, the yeast was 007, and dry hoped with just 40g hops, much less than many other brews of 100 to 200g Dry hop.

I normally keg somwhere between 16 and 21 days, so a bit earlier than usual this time but not massively.

I did cold crash in keg for a few days at 1c, which is something I don’t always do, but have done. The beer was also very clear with no chill haze, which I usually suffer from so maybe there is a clue there.

The beer was great by the way and hasn’t lasted two weeks!

After around 50 all grain brews now this is the first time I’ve experienced anything like this amount of crap at the end.

I’d be interested if anyone could throw some light on this?

 

[smcc]

did you dry hop in the keg?, my process is to cold crash and dry hop in the FV, I dry hop at low temps to stop any yeast involvement and cold crash prior to transfer so as much drops out before I transfer to keg then its in my keg fridge carbonating. If you are transferring to keg at ferm temp and then dry hopping and cold crashing in the keg having a lot of trub could be expected.

 

[Braufather]

Dry hop in fv at fermenting temps, For 3 days, then into keg where its sometimes cold. Dashed at close to zero for few days before going to serving temps and carbed up over a couple of weeks.

 

[smcc]

Dry hop in fv at fermenting temps, For 3 days, then into keg where its sometimes cold. Dashed at close to zero for few days before going to serving temps and carbed up over a couple of weeks.

I cant say whether its the reason for so much trub but I wouldnt be dry hopping at 20degrees (assuming its ale yeast) enzymes in hops can also cut dextrins and then your yeast can start again and you end up with hop creep. Once my fermentation is complete its chilled down before anything else happens and basically will stay that way.

You may just have gotten some over active yeast, its not unusual for me to see a decent layer on the bottom of my kegs once empty and mine is always chilled.

 

[Braufather]

do you not get grassy flavours dry hopping cold? I was also under the impression dry hopping at room temps is best because the yeast can eat up any small bit of oxygen picked up, also I understood it’s best to transfer at room temp for same reasons.

 

[smcc]

grassy maybe if you leave them in contact with beer for an extended period not cold, Basically I am dryhopping cold under CO2 and closed transfer so any O2 contained in the hops when pressed is microscopic and no real issue. If you look at how pros do it post fermentation it its all cold and under CO2. You want to give the yeast ideal environment to do its job and once done you basically want it out of the picture (unless of course you are doing cask or bottle conditioning)

 

[Braufather]

Do you ferment under pressure then?

 

[smcc]

no mate, I wouldnt recommend that either, over 15psi will start to basically harm yeast cells it will also inhibit their growth. Some breweries will do it for styles where they want slow fermentation to minimise ester production but for normal homebrewing I wouldnt be doing it