Ispindel leaking!!

[CraigInTheCorn]

@CraigInTheCorn
I'd take the ispindel out of the petling. Turn it off and remove the battery. GIve the whole thing a really good clean with some isopropyl alcohol on a soft toothbrush. Dry it thoroughly with a hairdryer set on low, then recharge and have another go.
My one that sank might have done better as the electronics were all at the top, the newer designs have components lower in the petling that would get much wetter.

As mentioned above Oring has worked for me I use a tiny bit of lubricant on the top of the petling and on the oring and tighten it up slowly.
I'd love to find a way to have a fully sealed design, just need to find glass blower with an interest in beer, cordless charging and switching wouldn't be a problem.

Thanks. I had done exactly as you suggested before posting my comment in this thread. There is, as you wrote, a small board on the lower section of this version, so it was submerged. Fortunately, I have alternatives, but am disappointed to have destroyed this one so quickly.

 

[gingerneil]

Sounds like the gyro is dead. It will have been submerged.
I tested the o ring with a batch I built - and it seemed to cause more problems than it solved. The distort when tightened and that can do more to create gaps in the seal than prevent them! You don't get an o ring in pressurised drinks bottles... I suggest it was likely a faulty lid, or despite tightening, you didn't go far enough. I leave the tamper seal attached when I send them out, this will break when you first screw the lid on. Some people are nervous of this and think they're breaking the lid, so back off.
I'm building and selling more or less to order - drop me a dm if you want a replacement.

 

[CraigInTheCorn]

I'm building and selling more or less to order - drop me a dm if you want a replacement.

Thanks, but in light of my habit of applying pressure to my fermenters near the end of fermentation, the iSpindel might not be a good choice for me. I think it may be best to stick with the Tilt, Kegland RAPT Pill, or just taking samples and measuring manually.

 

[gingerneil]

Fair enough - but my last brew was sat at 15psi for a week, and no signs of my ispindel leaking.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

My ispindel at 25psi and okay also at 29.5 celsius .

@CraigInTheCorn
It's not that difficult to remove the broken gyro and fit a new one. Does the temp sensor still work?

 

[d146895x]

My 10c worth - Never use ptfe tape - its pointless. The thread on the cap is a "three start" thread and is not providing any seal. Adding ptfe tape wil not seal it any better, just make the thread a bit slippy (at best) or less effective (at worst). The seal on the cap is provided by the lip of the container engaging in the "valley" at the top, inside, of the cap. In my experience, a very light smear of lubricant (Petroleum Jelly/Silicon grease) around the lip is all that is required. And, of course, the correct alignment of the cap as you screw it down - its very easy to get 1 of the 3 threads misaligned as you screw the cap on.

 

[Big_Eight]

I just threw my spindel in water to test out the calibration and get it setup and with the lid on tight mines leaking lol. I thought these things lids were good sealing lids so even without pressure I have a leak. might get some food grade silicone and create my own gasket in the lid and see how that works possibly.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

Make sure you haven't cross threaded it, also have a look at the inside of the lid and see if the ridge towards the middle of the lid is damaged.
That part of the lid can get damaged by the motherboard / sled sticking up on the inside. Very odd for it to be leaking straigtaway.
Some disposable milk carton lids are the same size and beware the really soft ones but if you can find a good thick one they are a useful replacement.
Trouble with siliconing a gasket in is that it will get wrecked won't it when you remove the lid to charge it and it will upset your calibration.

 

[Big_Eight]

Make sure you haven't cross threaded it, also have a look at the inside of the lid and see if the ridge towards the middle of the lid is damaged.
That part of the lid can get damaged by the motherboard / sled sticking up on the inside. Very odd for it to be leaking straigtaway.
Some disposable milk carton lids are the same size and beware the really soft ones but if you can find a good thick one they are a useful replacement.
Trouble with siliconing a gasket in is that it will get wrecked won't it when you remove the lid to charge it and it will upset your calibration.

Thanks for pointing that out. Just little bit ago I put the cap back on and really tightened it (I put the fear of God into it) and that fixed it no leaks now.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

Tighten it up slowly but tight as you say and you might be all right.

 

[phildo79]

My 10c worth - Never use ptfe tape - its pointless. The thread on the cap is a "three start" thread and is not providing any seal. Adding ptfe tape wil not seal it any better, just make the thread a bit slippy (at best) or less effective (at worst). The seal on the cap is provided by the lip of the container engaging in the "valley" at the top, inside, of the cap. In my experience, a very light smear of lubricant (Petroleum Jelly/Silicon grease) around the lip is all that is required. And, of course, the correct alignment of the cap as you screw it down - its very easy to get 1 of the 3 threads misaligned as you screw the cap on.

FWIW, I used the vaseline method on my last brew and had no issues with leakage with my replacement cap. The cap was taken from an empty soft drink bottle, possibly Lipton's ice tea. I haven't found any milk bottle tops that have fit properly and the cap I used leaked when I used PTFE tape. Not much but a leak is a leak.