Igloo 45 litre mash tun

[ECLIPSE]

Hi guys.

I've just purchased 1 of these today

http://www.caravantech-shop.co.uk/produ ... 8-cool-box

And also this tank connector which is already drilled out to accept 15mm copper pipe

http://www.copperkettlehomebrewing.co.u ... -connector

Just a couple of questions regarding the installation of a ball valve tap....

I'm planning on installing the tank connector with the threaded end on the outside of the coolbox and the flat end on the inside with the rubber washer sealing against the inside face of the box.

After tightening this up I'm then planning to screw a 1/2 inch 2 piece ball valve tap onto the threads of the tank connector on the outside with PTFE tap to seal the threads.

This is the tap I'm talking about
http://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/index.ph ... ductId=411
Its a female 1/2" on both ends

Would this setup work OK with this particular coolbox? I've seen some other threads but its never very clear how people are hooking the taps up.

I'm planning on going for a DIY job copper manifold which will hopefully just slot into the back of the tank connector and out again after use for cleaning.

Let me know your ideas/thoughts.

Cheers guys!

 

[Brewedout]

On my setup I made a silicone washer cut from a non stick food grade baking sheet and didn't use the rubber one provided. I wasn't sure how 'safe' the material would be with acidic wort. This is on the inside of the cool box. Hope that helps?

 

[Brewedout]

Just pop a short length of pipe through the tank connector and tighten the compression fitting. I rarely remove this. The copper pipes within the mash tun just connect up to this pipe with standard non solder ring copper fittings (self feed).

 

[ECLIPSE]

Would I have to use a different tap to the 1/2 inch female one if I used this setup? Cheers

 

[london_lhr]

Hi,

usually the original tap on the cooler is recessed and that would put your ball valve too close to the cooler.
You may need a parallel nipple and a full socket on the outside of the cooler to get the tap away from the side of the cooler.
That means you will have your tank connector, screwed into the tank connector is the socket to act as a spacer and the nipple will join the socket and the ball valve.
You need a bit of space to operate the open/shut lever on the ball valve.
If the original tap is not recessed, then disregard this comment.
Check first

Barry.

 

[Brewedout]

Just looked at your tap, would you not want to use the bulkhead connection with this instead oc a tank connector? The malt miller sells it

 

[ECLIPSE]

Just looked at your tap, would you not want to use the bulkhead connection with this instead oc a tank connector? The malt miller sells it

what would the difference be between the 2?

 

[Brewedout]

Would I have to use a different tap to the 1/2 inch female one if I used this setup? Cheers

Im no expert on this tap, on my cooler I used a standard tank connector like in your second link and then used a standard hot/cold water isolation valve with a short length of copper pipe and an elbow to change direction of wort into the boiler. Order of connection. .. tank connector, home made silicone washer, mashtun wall, nut to hold connector, pipe passed through held with compression joint on tank connector, the compression fitting on valve tap holds on to the pipe, then on the opposite side of valve pipe/elbow/pipe. For me money was a key factor and this was cheaper than the fitting you are talking about. Never had any issues. .. depends on how you want to do it and how much you can afford.

 

[Pakman]

Don't forget to insulate the lid of the coolbox. They are designed to keep things cold so do not usually insulate the lids. You will want to keep heat in.
Graham

 

[ECLIPSE]

Is the is where you drill a hole and fill the lid full of expanding foam?

 

[Pakman]

Yes. I had to drill two holes to get the lid on mine fully insulated.
Graham

 

[ECLIPSE]

Yes. I had to drill two holes to get the lid on mine fully insulated.
Graham

how did you seal the holes again afterwards?

 

[ECLIPSE]

I've been wondering if it might be a better option to turn the tank connector the other way round? So that the threaded section is inside the coolbox and the rubber washer is on the outside face? Then just use a short length of copper pipe on the inside and a compression fitting to seal?

 

[ECLIPSE]

So the box arrived today...

So far leak free..... Fingers crossed!

All I've got left to do now is make the copper manifold

 

[Brewedout]

So the box arrived today...

So far leak free..... Fingers crossed!

All I've got left to do now is make the copper manifold

Looks good, well done :thumb:

 

[ECLIPSE]

Well I managed to get the manifold done this evening!

Does this look OK?
I haven't cut any slits yet but when I do I'm only planning on cutting them in the 4 long 22mm pipes that run parallel to each other.

The centre 15mm pipe just slots into the back of the drilled out tank connector. Hopefully this is a good enough seal and won't let grain through.

 

[ECLIPSE]

I've been doing a bit of reading around and found a slightly different design someone had used on the same coolbox as I have.

Does anyone know of this design would be slightly better than mine? As the runoff is draining from the middle of the manifold rather than just from the back? I can easily change mine to match this design if you guys think this would be more efficient and even draining?

Cheers guys

 

[airymary]

Hi Eclipse

I expect you will sparge in your (nice new!) MT? To keep the grain bed afloat, you won't need to open the ball valve fully, making the relative efficiency of one design over another immaterial. Main thing is to avoid stuck mashes, and either design looks capable of that.

To be 'belt and braces', I put a metre of curtain netting over my manifold, as a grain bag. Should the mash stick (which it doesn't, usually...) I lift the grains in the netting off the manifold, then replace it to re-distribute the grains, and continue sparging :) (Also simplifies cleaning the MT afterwards).

Cheers,
Chris

 

[ECLIPSE]

Cheers Chris.

As it happens I changed the design last night. Tried cutting slots today. Blimey!! It is tough. Only managed to do 1 length today. Might just do a few slits a day. Of ain't so easy without a vice!!

Heres how it's looking at the moment

 

[airymary]

Looking good so far :) All that sawing is a pain in the arm, isn't it...

My 'manifold' is simply a length of copper pipe, with saw cuts and a stop-end. The tap end is hose-clipped into plastic tubing, which pushes into the back of a drum tap (which drains the MT). In combo with the netting, it works a treat :)

I know I should get off my backside and make a proper manifold, like yours. BUT, I don't get stuck mashes, and, (according to Beer Engine) I'm hitting 90% efficiency - it ain't broke, so I don't plan to fix it!

Cheers,
Chris