In the Young's screw cap fermentor it is hard to see the hydrometer and so very early on I decided I needed to extract beer to test and put in in a tall jar. Even with a large clip on top the foam on the beer stops one easy reading the hydrometer.
My early thoughts were to use the same system as used to measure battery acid. Having the hydrometer in a pipette seemed the easy way out. I bought a cheap anti-freeze hydrometer and idea was to re-calibrate it to show when ready to bottle. However I then found the flaw. Bubbles. With a beer hydrometer you need to spin the hydrometer to remove bubbles sticking to its side, in the pipette you can't spin the hydrometer so you get a faulty reading.
I still use the pipette to transfer beer into a vase designed for a single rose to then float the hydrometer in it, and the pipette allows me to suck off the bubbles on the top of the sample, but because you need to spin the hydrometer to read it, rather pointless leaving it in the fermentor.
I have looked at other anti-freeze hydrometers with balls which float or sink to show if enough anti-freeze. If one was making the same brew every time I suppose one could make a float which will sink once ready to bottle. However if making the same brew every time, and using temperature control, it will take about the same time to brew, so I simply wait 20 days the the hydrometer only confirms what I already know. So I just use the hydrometer once with most brews. I have made them before so I know start reading and I know what the finish reading should be, so the hydrometer just confirms it has actually fermented and has not stuck.