How to sparge with BIAB

[RachelM]

I’ve done a couple of 20 litre AG batches with my husband but I want to do a couple of smaller BIAB batches on my own where I can add ginger/fruit etc (what my husband calls “girly twaddle”)
The benefits of this are that they will be more niche beers (ie FOR ME!) so smaller volumes and I hope to manage the process on my own... I can’t lift a 20l brew.

Question is... do I sparge at all? how do I sparge?
I plan to do it all in my big 30l kettle which has a false bottom to keep the grain off the element and I have an inkbird so hopefully i’ll be able to keep the mash temp where I want it.
Do you still lauter? Do I then use my sparge arm as normal or do you batch sparge lifting the bag out?
I’m confused as I thought BIAB meant I would only need a hot liquor tank, mash and boil in the same vessel then straight into FV....

Are the recipe conversions a straight forward “half everything” conversion?

Thanks in Advance.

 

[Bigcol49]

Hi!
There is a no sparge technique for BIAB.
https://byo.com/article/skip-the-sparge/
http://brulosophy.com/methods/processes/no-sparge-method/

 

[dan125]

You don't need to sparge for BIAB, just start with your full volume in the kettle, and lift and drain the bag at the end of the mash.
BIAB tends to give lower efficiency than more traditional methods, so many of us BIABers like to do a sparge of some sort to help get the most out of the grain.
After draining as much as possible out of the bag I place it in plastic fermenting bucket and batch sparge with water at around 75C.

 

[dan125]

I'm not sure about trying to maintain the mash temp with the element if you don't have a way to recirculate (or at least very regular stirring), as I think you'll get a very uneven temp through the mash.
Might be better just to wrap it up well once you've started the mash.

 

[MmmBeer]

I used to sparge when I did BIAB. I built a wooden stand, with a support from which I suspended the bag of grains, using a small washing-up bowl with its bottom cut out. The sparge liquor was poured from a jug, through the grain bed in the bag.

After all, why else do they call them 'Mashing and Sparging Bags'?

 

[Alex.mc]

Hi Rachel,

I'm a noob, but have done some brews, and always BIAB having a cheap plastic electric boiler etc..
I found a Pizza tray thing that has holes all over the base in an effort to crisp up the base.... which happens to fit the top of my fermentor bucket almost perfectly, with the handles either side sitting on the top rim, and the main portion just below the rim.
So what I do is heat the water in the boiler to the temp, switch off, fit the BIAB bag, lob in the grain, stir, put the lid on and wrap up with bubble wrap and leave for the time recommended.
I don't heat any more, and never lose more than 2 degrees temp.

Then I put my fermentor bucket next to it, put the pizza tray in the top, and lift up the BIAB bag and let it drain for a minute or two, then move it over and sit it on the pizza tray, twist the top of the bag for a bit of squeeze, secure the twist with a bulldog clip and let it drain for 15 mins. Then add the drained liquid back into the boiler for the boil.
Fearing scorching i only do this single infusion. I have used sparge water in a jug and carefully dribbled it through the bag, but it's a faff.

So far this noob technique has made some lovely beers!

 

[Bigcol49]

Hi @RachelM
There is also a technique called dunk sparging. There are plenty of pages on the web dealing with this.

 

[-Bezza-]

I've not tried it myself, but someone on here was mentioning about a two-bucket idea recently that seemed a sensible and economic solution. Essentially, get a large bucket/FV, put a stainless steel rack (e.g. replacement shelf for an oven or BBQ) on top and then a smaller bucket on top of that with large holes drilled in the bottom. Pop the bag of grain in the smaller bucket and you can lauter and sparge without your arms dropping off, your hands getting scalded or hot wort going all over the floor. Or so the theory goes.

 

[RachelM]

Thanks that’s all very helpful. I think i’m just going to mash the full volume (the other appeal of this technique was not having a hot liquor tank etc) and see what efficiency I get first time round.
Would anyone suggest mashing for say 90 mins instead of 60 to improve efficiency?

 

[foxbat]

Would anyone suggest mashing for say 90 mins instead of 60 to improve efficiency?

No. With such a thin mash the conversion will complete quickly. You don't need to worry about your conversion efficiency. Where you're going to suffer is with your lauter efficiency because you're not doing any kind of rinsing of the trapped sugars bar that which you get from raising the bag and letting it drain naturally. My advice is to shoot for 65% overall brewhouse efficiency, measure all volumes and gravities during the process and then use them to see what you actually got and to accurately plan for next time around.

 

[dan125]

Thanks that’s all very helpful. I think i’m just going to mash the full volume (the other appeal of this technique was not having a hot liquor tank etc) and see what efficiency I get first time round.
Would anyone suggest mashing for say 90 mins instead of 60 to improve efficiency?

I don't think the extra mash time will make as much difference to 3 or 4 thorough stirs during the mash - although I usually mash for 75mins
I've never done 3 vessel brewing but maybe plan for around 10% lower effieciency than your usual method as a starting point and see how it comes out.

 

[RachelM]

Thanks. I’ll let you know how I get on...
The OG of the recipe i’m considering is 1045 so we shall see....

 

[SmallSpacesBrewing]

I've not tried it myself, but someone on here was mentioning about a two-bucket idea recently that seemed a sensible and economic solution. Essentially, get a large bucket/FV, put a stainless steel rack (e.g. replacement shelf for an oven or BBQ) on top and then a smaller bucket on top of that with large holes drilled in the bottom. Pop the bag of grain in the smaller bucket and you can lauter and sparge without your arms dropping off, your hands getting scalded or hot wort going all over the floor. Or so the theory goes.

This is my really cheap and awesome solution. I have a 76-80% efficiency.

 

[The Baron]

Hi Rachel
just be careful when doing full mash volume as it can sometimes cause PH problems if you are just using tap water. You may not have any problems with yours but if you start to detect any astringency or grainy taste in yours beer just replace some of the tap water with RO water or bottled water and that usually cures it. I used to use 50% RO or 4 or 5 2 ltr bottles of Aldi EE water at 17p a bottle. Apart from that it is water science which is a minefield and probably something for a later date.

 

[Duxuk]

I sparge my BIAB much as Dan125 suggests. It isn't to improve efficiency but because my 32l stock pot isn't big enough for a full vol. 23l brew. I open the bag in an FV and add, in my case, 6l of water. Another forum member has found that the sparge water temperature is of no importance and doesn't impact efficiency. I agree with that view. I always have had the ability to hang my bag from the garage rafters to drain, saving lots of effort.