How to control OG and ABV?

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Having bottled AG#1 I'm pleased I got a good mash efficiency and that it fermented down to a good FG.

I think it'll end up around 6% ABV which is a little higher than I'd like - each to their own but 4.5-5.0% would do me fine.

So how do you exercise some control without making thin and watery beer?

I looked at the Dilution and Boil Off Gravity Calculator on Brewer's Friend - if I had simply liquored back I'd have had to add about 1.5L water to my 10L wort - is this so little that it wouldn't really make the beer watery?

Or do you use other grains that title less fermentable sugars but add body?

Also i know my mash temp was at the lower end of the happy zone (i.e. closer to 60degC then 70) - I believe this results in more fermentable sugars so a drier beer and lower FG (right?) - is this a factor to play with?

Thanks,

Matt
 
This is something that has to be put down to experience, personal taste and experimentation.

I already brew to the capacity of my FV's (23 litres) so watering a brew down has never been an option for me.

I try to brew to a required ABV by using less grain, malt extract or sugar and I find that the addition of toasted rolled oats to the mash can add a lot of "mouthfeel" without adding too much to the ABV.

I use these MASHING TIPS

Strike Water = 2.6 to 3.0 litres per 1kg of grain.

Mash for ONE HOUR minimum at:
  • 55*C to 66*C for a High Alcohol – Dry brew.
    68*C to 72*C for a Low Alcohol – Sweet brew.
DO NOT exceed 75*C.
Stir Mash after 20 and 40 minutes.

Heat SPARGE water 80*C to 85*C. Note:Lower in summer!
Lauter until wort runs clear (using two jugs) and then Sparge at one litre per minute.


Stop sparge when Boiler reaches 30 litre capacity. (This is usually when runnings reach SG1.008 or below.)

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks @Dutto

I'm surprised you'd go that high or low on mash temps (compared to fig.79 in Palmer) but useful to know i have a bit more leeway here - something to play with...

At the moment i just dunk sparge using a grain bag which seems to do the job for now - does a proper mash/lauter tun (aka picnic cooler with a tap!) really add much more, and how? (was already considering making the investment but dubious what it would add)

Cheers,

Matt
 
I add 6l of water to my grains and drain again, in a 23l brew. After 127 AG brews, I'm still happy with it! It gives very acceptable efficiency. As above, try a higher mash temp. for more body. You can also use other, less fermentable grains. It can be as simple as crystal malt, which you can add to the mash or just steep.
 
Hi @matt76
Screenshot_20181111-100950.png

The chart in question shows that @Dutto is spot on. Ignore the "Mash Target" for the purposes of this discussion.
Some homebrewers use a step mash to have a rest in each zone.
 
.........

At the moment i just dunk sparge using a grain bag which seems to do the job for now - does a proper mash/lauter tun (aka picnic cooler with a tap!) really add much more, and how? (was already considering making the investment but dubious what it would add)

........

The Mash Tun was the first thing I built when I started AG brewing so I don't know whether it is better or worse than other methods.

What I do know is that by recirculating the wort with a couple of jugs I can get it to run almost clear into the Boiler; which means less solid debris in the Boiler and so little "break material" that I don't bother using a filter when transferring the wort to the FV.

I guess it's a case of "It works for me."
 
Hi @matt76
Refering back to your original post, if you are producing a beer with an ABV that is too high for your taste, and you don't want to adjust the mash temperature, try reducing the amount of grain without reducing the quantity of water.
 

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