How long do you dry hop and how hot?

[Deathstar]

I’ve just dropped 125gms if hops into my FV thus evening. 50g of Cascade, and 75g of Citra.
I ramped up the fermentation temperature to allow the yeast to clear to 20.5 from 19 on Sunday.
I plan to leave as is until Friday morning then cold crash ready for bottling on Sat evening or Sunday morning.

 

[labrewski]

Thread bump for a related question... Apologies if I should have started a new thread. The instructions for the kit that I've got fermenting say to add hops to the fv on day 5 and bottle on day 10. I was intending to leave 14 days in the fv. Should I delay the hops until day 9 or do they need fermentation to still be fairly active? Should I be guided by Hydrometer readings or is it just a case of personal preference for length of time prior to bottling?

Yep I use hydrometer when it's near to finish or finished then I dry hop instructions with kits are never really bang on it normally takes longer

 

[StoutWolf]

Thanks all, I'm reassured that I'm not going to ruin the brew by deviating from the instructions slightly. I think I'll leave it to day 8 or 9 then, check the gravity and if it looks good drop them in.

 

[Zee]

My methods:
1. If brewing a hazy beer or hop bomb - first addition after 3 days in FV then second addition after 5 days. Once FG is reached, cold crash to 2 degrees for a day then keg. Generally 7 and 5 days dry hopped. Pellets only and loose in the FV. I charge the FV with CO2 after second addition and close transfer to Corny.
2. If brewing a bright beer - Only 1 dry hop addition once FG is reached and will leave for 5 days and cold crash. Again pellets only and charge the FV with CO2.

If using a standard FV bucket or carbon the addition timings wouldn’t change, just the CO2 and transfer process.

I only use pellets in the brewhouse because I generally hop with US/NZ/AU hops and I think they preserve better than leaf. I find them a lot easier to handle in the Kettle as I don’t filter and less mess in the FV.

I hope this helps?

 

[Burlyman]

Research has shown that dry hop extraction happens quicker than originally thought, even at temperatures as low as 1°C - 4°C.
I always dry-hop during second fermentation at 10 °C for 2 to 5 days, depending on the style of beer I'm making..
I also use the same technique with chilli in my chocolate chilli porter.......

 

[dv12]

I am making the DDH pale ale from the Gregg Hughes book. I added 150g of hops at end of fermentation, left for 5 days, transferred to secondary to condition at 4C. At that point, it was fruity, almost luminous yellow, and smelled, and looked brilliant. After 2 weeks however, it resembles pond water. Its murky and brown and smells a bit weird. I chucked another 150g in and upped to 14C before bottling tomorrow. Hopefully it'll mask any off flavours and its drinkable.

I've read the oxidised NEIPA thread on here, so I should have known better.
So I think the lesson for me, unless you can purge the air and do closed transfer, then big dry hopping before conditioning, when using normal FV buckets just isn't possible. I'd love to know if anyone has found the same thing?

 

[Harbey]

I read somewhere that 14C was the ideal temperature for dry hopping. I seem to think it was Brew Dog article. Anyway, I now dry hop at 14C once the beer has completely finished. I just throw pellets straight in, give it 24 to 72 hours then cold crash for 48hrs to get everything to drop.

Having read this thread, I'm interested in doing a hop tea next time around.

 

[Brew_DD2]

I am making the DDH pale ale from the Gregg Hughes book. I added 150g of hops at end of fermentation, left for 5 days, transferred to secondary to condition at 4C. At that point, it was fruity, almost luminous yellow, and smelled, and looked brilliant. After 2 weeks however, it resembles pond water. Its murky and brown and smells a bit weird. I chucked another 150g in and upped to 14C before bottling tomorrow. Hopefully it'll mask any off flavours and its drinkable.

I've read the oxidised NEIPA thread on here, so I should have known better.
So I think the lesson for me, unless you can purge the air and do closed transfer, then big dry hopping before conditioning, when using normal FV buckets just isn't possible. I'd love to know if anyone has found the same thing?

Nail on the head. You describe the exact reason I stopped brewing very heavily-hopped styles until I could do closed transfers. They are such fragile beers.

 

[Harbey]

I too have suffered the oxidisation blues (or purpleybrowns) when heavy hopping. I doubt we can eliminate it but it is one of the reasons I don't use secondary fermentation, just keep everything in primary until bottling. I then purge the filled bottles with a quick blast of CO2, using a Soda Stream bottle, before capping them. It definitely helps.

 

[Brew_DD2]

I too have suffered the oxidisation blues (or purpleybrowns) when heavy hopping. I doubt we can eliminate it but it is one of the reasons I don't use secondary fermentation, just keep everything in primary until bottling. I then purge the filled bottles with a quick blast of CO2, using a Soda Stream bottle, before capping them. It definitely helps.

Mine has been eliminated completely through closed transfers and purged cornys. Quite staggering the difference it has made.

 

[Harbey]

Mine has been eliminated completely through closed transfers and purged cornys. Quite staggering the difference it has made.

Yeah, I'm still stuck with bottles for now. I keep on being tempted by Kegs but the set up price, space taken up and the fact that having beer on tap is rather dangerous, keeps putting me off.

 

[dad_of_jon]

I am making the DDH pale ale from the Gregg Hughes book. I added 150g of hops at end of fermentation, left for 5 days, transferred to secondary to condition at 4C. At that point, it was fruity, almost luminous yellow, and smelled, and looked brilliant. After 2 weeks however, it resembles pond water. Its murky and brown and smells a bit weird. I chucked another 150g in and upped to 14C before bottling tomorrow. Hopefully it'll mask any off flavours and its drinkable.

I've read the oxidised NEIPA thread on here, so I should have known better.
So I think the lesson for me, unless you can purge the air and do closed transfer, then big dry hopping before conditioning, when using normal FV buckets just isn't possible. I'd love to know if anyone has found the same thing?

I put co2 down in my bottling bucket before transfering via autosyphon and I use bottles. I'll try and put some co2 in first in a few to see if it makes a difference to my first neipa. So at least hoping to tie down which part of the process makes the biggest difference.