Hose Connectors

[bobsbeer]

Up to now I have managed without needing to connect and disconnect hoses, but as my build is progressing I am going to have to get some. So the choices seem to be:

A. Camlock - Quick, easy and sure connection - High price

B. Geka type claw couplings - Look easy to connect and sure connection - Cheaper than Camlock, but mainly brass

C. Hozelock type - Easy to get, good connection - Only seen brass or plastic - Cheapest option

Option A seems to be a popular choice, but the price seems expensive.
Option B seems a good choice if you don't mind brass, and look like a good secure connection.
Option C doesn't seem to be used by anybody. Any reason for this?

What are the pros and cons for these options, and is there another option I have missed?

 

[guyb]

Up to now I have managed without needing to connect and disconnect hoses, but as my build is progressing I am going to have to get some. So the choices seem to be:


C. Hozelock type - Easy to get, good connection - Only seen brass or plastic - Cheapest option

Option C doesn't seem to be used by anybody. Any reason for this?

What are the pros and cons for these options, and is there another option I have missed?

I've used Hozelock for about 18months now, I have Hozelock fittings on all my FV's as taps, and also use them on my Solar Pump in a box (in the how to section).

From time to time I have to replace the fittings, I've used the cheap £1ea B&Q blue ones, but also started to invest in all brass. Not had any problems so far. Well apart from the blue ones melting slightly as they were too close to the burner under the boiler :grin:

 

[Aleman]

Camlocks can be had at a lower cost from homebrewbuilder.

The real downside to Camlocks is the reduced bore on the hosetails . . . Although in practice I have never found it to be an issue.

One option you haven't considered are hose couplings which tend to be used in commercial breweries. Leak free at hand tight

 

[bobsbeer]

Do you mean the Tri Clamps? I had forgotten about them.

 

[Belter]

I went for Camlocks from Homebrew Builder.

I figured they were the best choice for the money but prepare yourself. I bought three type A's and three type C's thinking that would be all I ever needed. I then spent over £100 buying the rest of the fittings I realised I needed and am just about to order two more that I'd forgotten. When you realise how handy they are you think.... perhaps I could add another fitting here and stick a camlock on it to make things easier.

 

[bobsbeer]

So far in order of price inc vat and shipping, lowest first:

1. Claw GEKA fittings - £52 - UK Pump Supplies
2 Brass Hozelock - £83.03 - UK Pump Supplies
3. Brass Camlock - £95 - UK Pump Supplies
4. Tri Clamp - £95.75 (304 SS) - Ebay from China
5. 316 SS Camlock - £128.60 - Collister & Glover

Anyone used tri clamps? The ones off ebay are 304 SS. Is that suitable? Anyone know the prices from Homebrew Builder?

 

[JulesRS]

Tri clamps would be my choice, although expensive. Used them in a micro brewery when I visited Colorado last year. Quick and easy and (certainly in the commercial size tri clamps) you can get all sorts of fittings... t piece, y piece, sight glasses and all other number of pieces.

 

[Cyclops]

Tri-clamps would be my choice too, have a look on the bay if you don't mind waiting for the delivery from china.

 

[calumscott]

What's the issue with brass peeps?

I'm planning on gearing up with gekas for the shed...

 

[Cyclops]

brass can leach toxins with the acidic wort being used through it.

 

[bobsbeer]

brass can leach toxins with the acidic wort being used through it.

Is that a real issue given the quantity brewed, contact time and frequency of use by home brewers? I have brass fittings in my boiler and MT.

Tri-clamps would be my choice too, have a look on the bay if you don't mind waiting for the delivery from china.

The prices quoted were from Ebay/China, my only worry was the lower spec steel used, 304 rather than the more expensive 316. But as they will not be being used continually, maybe they will be okay. For some reason Tri Clamps don't seem to be popular over here. But maybe they are in the commercial world, and we just don't get to see it.

 

[pittsy]

Anyone thought of john guest speed fit fittings (plastic), that's what i use with a bit of copper pipe on the hose pipe . Very cheap compared to the others .

 

[Cyclops]

the tri-clover fittings are used in a lot of businesses that need to be sanitary, I did have a link to a supplier over here that was about the same price as china but without the long shipping times.

I will have a look to see if I can find it again.

 

[jamesb]

There's also cone and seat unions.

BES et al do them.

 

[Aleman]

There's also cone and seat unions.

BES et al do them.

Those are the fittings I was thinking of :clap: :thumb: can screw directly onto Male tap ends . . . and all you need are hose tails to go on the hose end.

I did look at using them, but once I had priced them up with all the hose tails they were not a lot cheaper than camlocks . . .plus I didn't really want lots of threads open to wort at every connection. In the commercial world they are sanitary welded to the pipe / hose tail

 

[danb]

I use john guest fittings on my system but will be using camlocks when I upgrade to shiny pots.

 

[Vossy1]

The prices quoted were from Ebay/China, my only worry was the lower spec steel used, 304 rather than the more expensive 316.

There's absolutely no issue with 304 in the brewery and my main concern re any fitting would be food safety rated, not price, but that's personal choice.

 

[bobsbeer]

I have figured out I am going to need 9 screw couplings and 7 hose tails. I managed to knock off 2 tails by using the same hose in a couple of different configurations, which helps cut the cost down a bit. Below is a diagram of the processes and pipe combinations. Have I missed any?

 

[Fil]

Hi bob looks complete to me..

however do you think you will need a valve and 2 sets of firrings for the output from the cfc? cant u restrict that flow with the valve off the boiler and just use a length of sterile silicone tube to guide the wort into the fermentor ?
if needed u can pinch that too.

 

[bobsbeer]

Thanks Fil,

The flow controller is also the flow sensor measuring the volumes. I know it's not necessary for the run off to the FV, but as I will have it, I figured I would use it. But it will be able to measure the water into the MT and the volume going into the boiler. Although that bit is going to be tricky as it will be measuring the sparge water flow in, and I would need to swap it over to drain to the boiler. So I may need to pass on that measurement, or get two flow controllers. Which seems a bit OTT. :lol: