Hop Spider Thingy

[Clint]

Push the line through on a needle...the line will seal the hole.

 

[Dave H]

I would think this has been “spot welded” together. It will be made of stainless steel mesh. You may be able to find a fabrication company local to yourself or even a car body shop that may be able to re weld it for you but it needs a welder that is capable of turning the current and time down so as not to blow a big hole! I have last week made a hop filter and found that the spot welds I made are remarkably strong. An alternative may be to use fine fuse wire to stitch it together.

 

[phildo79]

Was just having a look at it. It appears to be glued together. A welder would tear it to shreds. The holes are extremely small so using a needle seems unlikely to work. The fishing line required to fix it would need to be incredibly fine. Anyway, I think what @An Ankoù said earlier is probably true, i.e. the amount of detritus escaping would be minimal.

I think if I can find fishing line fine enough, that would be the best fix. Thanks for all the input guys, much appreciated.

 

[Clint]

You can use any size/thickness of line or wire. Just punch through the mesh,the line will seal the hole.

 

[phildo79]

Yeah but wouldn't you only be half filling it as the line would be doubled through the needle?

 

[Clint]

Only if you double it along its entire length but it wouldn't matter if it was. You're talking of microns...

 

[Dave H]

Some close ups of spot welds, some are mesh to mesh and also mesh to a stainless washer. Mesh is 0.497mm aperture and 0.25mm diameter.

 

[phildo79]

Double it the entire length, start from the inside, finish in the inside, job's a good'un!

 

[BeerCat]

Fill the hole with a suitable bit of plastic and go for it. You will get hop dust in any case. I found it takes a week for the bitterness from the particles to go.

 

[phildo79]

Thankfully the gap is near the top so if I can hook it to the underside of the corny lid, I should be able to avoid any extra, unwanted detritus.

Won't be using it for this batch as I have just fooked the dry hopping pellets into the primary. But will use it for my next brew and load it up with cinnamon, coffee and choc nibs.

 

[foxy]

Food grade silicon sealant is the go.

 

[Mavroz]

What every you use make sure it is food safe or food grade. You dont want to taint your beer with glues or silicone, even worse make yourself I'll from any nasties in any of them.

 

[steve denholm]

Lead in the solder might dissolve because of the slight acidity of the beer. Don't know if solder is lead-free these days.

lead free these days my friend :)

 

[phildo79]

Food grade silicon sealant is the go.

Would this do? Seems like a lot for such a small job but I can't seem to find any small tubes of the stuff.

https://www.idealsealants.com/silic...UdJGZAXiMK5uf_jJdX4-ZscnyoJlOvuIaAhRBEALw_wcB

 

[keat64]

I wouldn't worry about food safe if i'm being honest.
I would bet my next brew on it, that the only difference is one jumped through hoops to obtain a certificate, another one didnt.
A shame you don't live near me, I've a couple of toothpaste sized tubes going spare.

As for accepting a partial refund, if it did come from CN, had you gone back to the seller and rejected his partial offer, he would have given you the full amount back.
The cost of shipping it back, far out weighs any profit he may have had in it.
By offering you a partial refund, he's broken even, and you're probably out of pocket having to fix it.

Especially if it came from Ebay.
I see so many sellers advertisng as UK Stock and it comes from the far east.

 

[phildo79]

Oh I know. It was from eBay and I knew it was coming from China but I wasn't in a rush for it and it was only £6. Some online HBS' sell them for £20+. Haven't opened a dispute or anything, just emailed them to say it was damaged.