hobgoblins question thread

[hobgoblin]

You shouldn't be boiling your grains! I use the homebrew company BIAB starter kit, and it works a treat.

that kit looks like a fermentation bin and a kettle ellament cant i build one?

 

[IainM]

Yes you can, and you can make the chiller from copper tubing too. Search in the forums and you can find instructions and save yourself a few bob.

 

[hobgoblin]

tried using the search but i cant find anything

 

[MyQul]

tried using the search but i cant find anything

tbh, our search engine can sometimes be a cack when it comes finding old stuff. Go to google and search for something like 'boiler kettle element the home brew forum' or 'how to make a homebrew boiler kettle element the home brew forum' here's what I got when I did the latter

https://www.google.co.uk/?client=fi...rew+boiler+kettle+element+the+home+brew+forum

 

[MarkBowie]

I'm only just starting out on my AG journey too, I've bought quite a bit of my stuff from Geterbrewed.

 

[Personal91]

as i have so many questions rather than spam the forum with topics ill post all my questions in this one topic

ok question1 on ebay i found this and want to know if its worth it
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201421143018?var=500604416662

question 2. starsan is an acid based cleaner do i need gloves to use it

question 3. is a king keg worth it not sure how it works with a tap at the top of the keg

ill post more as i have them thanks

question 3 = the king keg with a top tap works by means of a 'floating' source point so that you will always skim your brew from the top (so long as it is still floating)

the main advantage is that you will be able to 'sample' your brew alot sooner and sample away you will im sure

the main disadvantage is that you will get a false indication of how quickly your brew is clearing up as your brew will clear from the top-down - this means that you could pull 2 beautiful pints and then pint No3 will be more yeasty/cloudy

all in all i thoroughly recommend the top tap king keg with a floating syphon point - JUST REMEMBER TO PUT SOME VASELINE AROUND THE SEALS!!!

 

[hobgoblin]

point - JUST REMEMBER TO PUT SOME VASELINE AROUND THE SEALS!!!

why lol hope its not a kinky reason :lol::lol:

 

[Personal91]

why lol hope its not a kinky reason :lol::lol:

:twisted::lol::whistle:

it helps keep a tight seal - everyone loves a tight one

 

[hobgoblin]

:twisted::lol::whistle:

it helps keep a tight seal - everyone loves a tight one

ah i see i think plus i have uploaded two new vids

 

[Personal91]

ah i see i think plus i have uploaded two new vids

please try harder to overlook what i was saying

+ only 1 new video has appeared on your channel about making mead - bout 30 mins

 

[Personal91]

I'm only just starting out on my AG journey too, I've bought quite a bit of my stuff from Geterbrewed.

im yet to start it, i have just bought a thermometer stick but want to have everything ready first to save wasting a couple hours just for a frustating mess!!!

what equipment have you got and is it any good ?:!::grin:

 

[hobgoblin]

please try harder to overlook what i was saying

+ only 1 new video has appeared on your channel about making mead - bout 30 mins

im not overlooking what you said mate i have made a note of it :thumb:

and the other vid was processing should show now

 

[hobgoblin]

ok i need some help i dont get this damn hydrometer at all just took my first reading in 8 days for the double ipa
and this is what i got where my thumb nail is now is this ready for putting into my barrel ????????

 

[wfr42]

Yes, but no.
Read down the way so that is 1.004 so will be quite a dry beer, which a dipa will be.
Around 1.010 is the "standard" finished measurement for beer - you want a reading about that (depends on style) for at least 2days

I would wait at least two weeks in total (so at least another 6days) which will give the yeast a chance to clean up a bit and give you a clearer pint. You could dry hop in this window if you are planning to/are guided to by the instructions.

 

[hobgoblin]

Yes, but no.
Read down the way so that is 1.004 so will be quite a dry beer, which a dipa will be.
Around 1.010 is the "standard" finished measurement for beer - you want a reading about that (depends on style) for at least 2days

I would wait at least two weeks in total (so at least another 6days) which will give the yeast a chance to clean up a bit and give you a clearer pint. You could dry hop in this window if you are planning to/are guided to by the instructions.

i am most probably being thick as a brick but i read that 3 times and im still like :wha::wha::wha: i have no idea what you said lol

 

[wfr42]

Give your brew a full 2 weeks fermentation.
So don't barrel yet.

Your hydrometer reading is 1.004. That is good, it shouldn't go lower for beer.

 

[hobgoblin]

Give your brew a full 2 weeks fermentation.
So don't barrel yet.

Your hydrometer reading is 1.004. That is good, it shouldn't go lower for beer.

ah right ok thank you ill give it another 6 days then :thumb:

 

[goodolpete]

is there anyother no rinse that would be safer

I use Videne (non foaming) which cost me about ten quid a couple of years ago
for a litre. You use 2.2ml in a litre of water, so you see it will be years
before I need any more. It is used commercial in the cheese making
industry, sanitising the marble slab they form cheeses on, one spray to
wet the surface, let it drain, sanitised! Had it neat on my fingers with
no effect.

 

[hobgoblin]

well i put me beer in the barrel yesterday and a bit in some bottles is there a filter i could get to take out the sediment in future

 

[Covrich]

There are things you can do to reduce it, but you want some in there (its yeast essentially) to carb up your beer.

By the way I think you have left a little bit too much headroom in that bottle.