HERMS FALSE BOTTOM OR COPPER MANIFOLD with litle brown pump?

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does it need to hold the weight of the grain? I was hoping the mash would "float" in the wort?
 
Newtons Shed said:
does it need to hold the weight of the grain? I was hoping the mash would "float" in the wort?

I'm affraid it does need to hold the weight :) I have a big heafty stainless mesh and that buckled before I put in a center support, mind you there was 15 or so kg of grain on it. I don't know but would guess that those screens might be to fine :hmm:

Getting my false bottom right was the hardest part of my HERMs build, on this occassion I just threw money at it. :thumb: To little flow and the pump gets starved and the PID cannot function with an intermittent flow and you have to stand watch and switching. :evil: Two much flow with grain, you get a blocked pump, only managed this when my FB buckled. :evil: :lol:
S
 
doh, well might try something like the seives or splatter guard first see what happens once I've got it all up and running.

How much space can I have between the tap & the fb>? I currently have a tank connector and tap fitted to the side which is about an 1" from bottom could I have the fb a few inches above this or does the fb need to be closer to the bottom with a pick up tube going to the tap ie so the fb is sitting lower than the tap with tube going up to tap. The fact that there be some water in the bottom not in contact with the grain wouldn't be an issue as herms system recirculating also would it help to buffer any potentail slower drainage through the bed of grain to the bottom and to pump?
 
OK if I wanted to make one what size mesh do I need is it the #40 stuff or has anyone got one they are no longer using? If I were to make one out of a sheet of mesh do I just cut it to size to my tun and put a copper pipe in the middle to tap?
 
#40 mesh is the 'norm', the mesh company on ebay sell it.
If I were to make one out of a sheet of mesh do I just cut it to size to my tun and put a copper pipe in the middle to tap?
There are different ways of doing it. Do a search on't net for how to make a hop stopper :thumb:
 
NS, sorry, I replied above assuming you were talking hop stopper as that's the usual use for mesh
Mesh won't be any good in the mash it'll block and collapse, you really need some form of rigid strainer. The item you've linked might be o.k, the hole size for mash tuns fb's is usually 1.5 -2mm.
If using with a pump you really want to avoid bits getting into it.
 
Thanks Vossey,
When I get set back up, I'll try the copper manifolds first as I already have them from the plastic brewery I got when I first started out. If that doesn't work, which from whats been said I'm not expecting it too, then I'm going to need 2 FB, one in the mash tun and one in the boiler.

To clarify that splater screen would it work better as a hop strainer or could I also try it in the mash tun too?

With regards to the porforated ss fb with #40 from ebay to make my own, are they used in the mash tun or both tun and boiler?
 
Hi, A false bottom &/or a manifold of some description is needed in the MTun.
A hop stopper/bazooka screen or similar is needed in the Boiler.
Lots of people use a copper manifold with slots cut in the pipe in a m tun without a F bottom but the choice is yours.
personally i use a false bottom & a bazooka in my m tun & :pray: i never have a problem. :cheers:
 
then I'm going to need 2 FB, one in the mash tun and one in the boiler.
I've used the domed type for both. The problem is that you normally run hot runnings from the mash tun into the boiler so the fb has to be fitted to the boiler prior to running off. The other way to do it is to run off to another vessel, then swap the mash dome into the boiler...a pita :roll:
 
Yes I did think of trying to swap them over during brew day but as you say its a pita.

There not as expensive as I thoght to buy them ready made, as I would need the larger 12" one they're £25 each plus about £7 postage.

I will just try the manifold first though but I did Vossey say as using pump and plate chiller it's likely to block?
 
Question for Vossy-san and other HERMS jedi's.

Sorry to hijack the thread but I have a rectangular shaped picnic box which I have tricked with a copper manifold thinking it would be OK for HERMS. If I understood Vossy right, the advantage of a false bottom is that it gives a bigger surface area for drainage. It's a bit late in the game for me to make that switch but could I improve the manifold by cutting more slots in it? At the moment I have slots spaced every 12mm.
 
t0m said:
Question for Vossy-san and other HERMS jedi's.

Sorry to hijack the thread but I have a rectangular shaped picnic box which I have tricked with a copper manifold thinking it would be OK for HERMS. If I understood Vossy right, the advantage of a false bottom is that it gives a bigger surface area for drainage. It's a bit late in the game for me to make that switch but could I improve the manifold by cutting more slots in it? At the moment I have slots spaced every 12mm.

The more slots the better providing it does not fall to pieces :lol:
 
No chance of that, my motivation and quite possibly the hacksaw blade will give out first.

evanvine said:
The HERMS unit must have as little water round the element and heat exchange coil as possible, two litres or less for
quick response time.

Call me old fashioned but I'm going with the Tesco kettle. :thumb:

In the USA where I now reside it seems very common to put the HERMS coil in the HLT. The point being that you can fill it up with ice water and use it as a chiller. I'm not buying it.
 
I am staying out of HERMs debate, I promised Vossy, feeling very pleased with myself.
:D :lol:
S
P.S. can't even agree on the size of the HE now. :? :roll: Dammit I just couldn't help myself, sorry V. :lol:
 
evanvine said:
Springer said:
Dammit I just couldn't help myself
I am impressed by your will of iron! :whistle:

I promised V, :lol: :D
Anyway I'm cooking meat with it now, or that is the plan and still bottle washing. Dammit commented again, its your fault E, I am going to report you to V. :lol:

S
 

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