HELP! New Buffalo Boiler

[Gaffer1975]

I've recently bought a new Buffalo Boiler and did one boil yesterday that was a disaster as I am having the same boil 'cut out' problems as a lot of people. I've read the blogs and ordered a 130 cut out switch and I want to by pass the fuse so I can get a good rolling boil.
Big problem is that I had a quick look this morning and I cannot see how to remove the base plate so I can get at the guts of the machine. It's the new model 20 litre GL347 so the set up may be different to some of the older boiler blogs. There are no visible screws fixing it in place, I can get a screwdriver under the lip of the plate but I don't want to force it open and break something, does anyone know how to get the damn thing off?
I've called Buffalo and Nisbets but they are not allowed to tell you how to take it apart.

 

[Tony1951]

I've called Buffalo and Nisbets but they are not allowed to tell you how to take it apart.

If I was you I'd ask them how they'd like to have you send it back to them. If you bought it on ebay, just open a case under, 'not as described', ie - not working. They will stop their paypal account until they sort out the issue.

You are ABSOLUTELY entitled to expect that something you buy is fit for purpose. This boiler manifestly wasn't, and when they mess you about by saying they aren't allowed to help you to fix it, you have been badly treated.

 

[Mickeywheelspin]

Strangely I had similar issues with my Buffalo yesterday - first brew with it and the thermal fuse blew so I had to dump it. Planning to just bypass the thermal fuse now. Also, on sound recommendation from Marcarm, I'm going to use these for the joints so I don't have any melting connector issues.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/d190/Cable+Management/sd2460/Porcelain+Connector/p76007

If its the same as the 40L one there are 4 screws on the bottom. Once these are out the whole ring piece with the knob, switch etc. comes loose but you don't want to lift this off, just the base disc with the feet in. It's a little fiddly but you should be able to get it off at the front and kind of unhook it at the back - it's secured to the base by bent tabs.

Good luck!

 

[Gaffer1975]

That's great I'll have another look at the boiler this evening, I know it has to come off some how I was just worried about forcing it. I picked up my porcelain connectors in B&Q for 80 odd pence I think.
I gave Buffalo another call and the thermal cut out temp is 98 so no chance of getting a full rolling boil! Annoying seeing as the instructions say that you can get a continuous boil if the temp dial is set on 'high'.
I've learnt my lesson that I should have tested it all out before doing a full brew.

 

[DonV]

I guess this boiler is designed to be a tea urn and its normal use it to bring the water to the boil and switch off. To save me searching , where can I get a higher temperature cut out? I've only done one boil and had to keep resetting the cut-out. I had intended to just bypass it but a different cut-out might be a bit safer..
If you have the four screws it is easy to get the base off, not so easy to get it back on though.
Seeing the label "Made in China" says it all for me!
Don

 

[ManseMasher]

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=53285

Have a look at this thread. It is for a Burco boiler, but I'm sure if you ask the op he'll be able to give some help.

 

[DonV]

Thanks ManseMasher, I had look at that thread. Did a bit of searching on Ebay and CPC and it looks like these cut-outs are available at different temperatures.
Thinking about this since my last post my opinion has changed, they wouldn't have used a resettable cut-out in an inaccessible position for controlling the temperature. This it probably just to to protect against boiling dry and a bit over sensitive.
As there are a few of these offered cheap on Ebay as "Refurbished" I wonder if they are warranty returns that they are shifting.
As for controlling the rate of boil I was thinking of using a 25A Triac so I'm looking out for a suitable circuit. Be interested to know if anyone else has thought about this.
Cheers
Don :

 

[sphsjh]

I had a similar problem, so I've installed an additional kettle element, using a q-max cutter. I bring it close to the boil with the plate and then switch over to the kettle element and this keeps it at a nice rolling boil.

 

[ManseMasher]

I had a similar problem, so I've installed an additional kettle element, using a q-max cutter. I bring it close to the boil with the plate and then switch over to the kettle element and this keeps it at a nice rolling boil.

More than one way to de-integument a feline!!

 

[Toffee]

also - might be worth ensuring the base of the unit is not getting too hot. I use mine on a black and decker workmate which ensures that there is airflow underneath it and it never cuts out. Now I may be lucky, but I have seen others comment the same. so if its on a solid worktop, you might want to try that.

 

[Mickeywheelspin]

After an aborted first run with the urn last week when the thermal fuse blew I had another go on Saturday with no issues at all. I had intended to replace the thermal fuse but when I got to it I realised that the existing was rated higher than I thought at 144 Celsius and the new one was 150 odd so not enough of a step up. In the end I bypassed it with a ceramic connector block and then unbolted the cut-out, covered the exposed terminals in insulating tape and pulled it clear from the element (new higher rated one one on order) to try and stop that kicking in too.

60 minute rolling boil with no cut-out issues, worked like a charm :razz:

Now just hoping that the beer comes out ok :pray:

 

[Jonmiller]

Hello

I have a buffalo 40 litre boiler. I am trying to get the base off, Am I right in thinking that the feet are the things to undo. It seems a bit crap, as you have to lever them up to lift the the two pegs clear of the holes? Many thanks

 

[DonV]

Hi.
On my 40 litre boiler the six feet don't hold the base on. They are just pushed into holes. There are four Phillips head screws inboard of the feet to be undone . You may have to prise the base out. These boilers are made in China so don't expect the quality of Burco. Their main redeeming feature is that they are affordable.
getting the base back on is another story.....:!:
Don

 

[Jonmiller]

Hi, It looks like these 4 feet have been glued on or molded to the screws
The only way I can see of getting it apart is to break the feet away from the screws:twisted: I will wait and see if anyone can throw more light before I proceed. Many thanks

 

[Jonmiller]

Hi all

I have managed to get feet off. You need to drill a 7mm hole central on the foot, and then put a screwdriver in and unscrew. I only found this out by breaking one foot,. They are molded around screw head, although I cannot see how they can be assembled like this, because each foot has two protuding bosses about 5 mm deep that locate into two holes symmetrical to the screw hole.. Lucky I have some spare door stops which will make some new feet. :)

 

[Jonmiller]

There is a lid on the feet which is hard, for an old blindo like me to see without glasses. Prising these out with tiny screwdriver will reveal holding screw , which explains how these feet can be assembled. My unit does not have a thermal fuse, and it it also has a double pole thermal cut out with reset button. I Have looked at thermal switch, and it is a 250V 20A 140 degC. I will put some thermal grease back on it and reassemble, and give it a trial heatup tomorrow.

 

[DonV]

Hi,
Looks like there are some variations in the way they are put together.
In the end I just made up a link with spade terminals and bypassed the thermal cut-out. The Baby Burco I had before didn't have one and I never had any problems. I believe it's there to prevent the element burning out if it boils dry which is unlikely with brewing.
Adding thermal paste might make it more sensitive. A couple of thin washers under the fixing screws, between the cut-out and the base, might make it less so and still give you some protection if you feel apprehensive about bypassing it like I did.
Good luck with the test.
Don

 

[Mickeywheelspin]

My cutout is currently bypassed as I replaced the original with a 130 degree one (no thermal paste) but still couldn't maintain a rolling boil.

It's probably just boil dry protection, but in the unlikely event that I kill the element I'll do as others have and cut a hole for a kettle element.

 

[Jonmiller]

Hi
Just tried first boil with water, it got to 99 and cut out!!!.

I will take thermal switch out (150 deg C), clean off thermal compound and add a couple of washers between thermal switch and base, as mentioned in previous post. Good job I am testing before brew day.

 

[Steved53]

Old thread, I know, but just a bit of an update from my experience.

I took delivery of one of these (GL349) from Nisbets in France today. This model has no temperature settings - just Off, 1,2,3,4,5, High. Put some water in, set it to high, and it got to boiling and maintained a rolling boil.

As has been said, there are little caps on the four feet, which you can prise off with your fingernail. The screws sit at the bottom of the hollow feet. Didn't bother to open mine up, as I had no need.

At the price (114 euros plus transport), I think they are good value. I'm seriously thinking about getting another one, and using one for mashing and one for boiling, with new valves and strainers.

I was thinking of maybe adding a Lauterhexe from Brewpi. Anyone with any experience - hole sizes, effectiveness etc?