help ag advice requierd

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
hi there, i know some members use the brewferm boilers successfully, but you might find that the thing is a little too full when trying to boil down to 23-25l brewlength. is it 29l to the brim??

for a comfortable rolling boil with your starting volume which easily could be in excess of 30l look at something with a 40l volume. otherwise you may spill a lot of boil and make a mess or be relegated to the patio for evermore....

or forever be recalculating recipe weights and volumes and feel like youve lost out on a good 6 pints at the end of the batch :)


i went the diy route with a mango barrel and a couple of tesco kettle elements, tho the 40l buffalo boilers look good and with a tap upgrade and in some cases a bypass of the overboil protection which cuts out stopping the boil we want, is a superb boiler/hlt. Shiny too :)

all you need kit wise beyond what you already have for brewing kits up is perhaps an extra fermentor to help juggle the wort between mash sparge and boil. a boiler/hlt, a mashtun and perhaps a wort chiller. thermometers, jugs, hydrometers etc should already be in you kit box.

i bought a viking brand cool box mash tun mod of ebay, not cheap, but works very well. so i can recommend that off the shelf solution.

You dont need to chill!! i have used the no-chill method where you let the wort chil down on its own overnight in a sealed fv so it can be stored pre fermentation, you can just add yeast on the next day :)...
but 10 or 8mm soft copper tube is easy to bend and coil, tho always use a form or bending tool, to avoid kinks.. :)
 
If your looking at spending £400 & over and can do diy I'd say make your own. :thumb: There's loads of "how to" on the forum, building your own can be fun as well.
You can get S/S pots off the German Ebay....HERE worth thinking about... :hmm:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top