hefeweizen recipy wanted

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right here i go this is how i am going to do my hefeweizen from wot i read so far it looks right :thumb:

This beer can be made with a Single infusion mash at 66-68C, the reason for using a glucan rest for the wheat malt ("all of wheat & 20% of lager malt into big pan, add minimum amount of water to get thick(*) mash @ aprox 37 C...leave 20 mins" (*) use 2.0-2.5L per Kg ) is simply to break down the high level of glucans that wheat malt contains . . .if you want to use rice/oat hulls then this step can be ignored completely, although it also acts to produce ferrulic acid which is a precursor for one of the banana/clove taste characteristics, it depends on how you want to swing the taste profile of the beer.

for 25L I will Aim for

2950g Wheat Malt
2420g lager malt
18g Tettnang Hops (90 Minutes)
12g Perle Hops ( 90 Minutes)
10g Tettnang Hops (45 Minutes)
10g Tettnang Hops ( 15 minutes)
yeast not made mind up yet ;)

Total volume of water: 34.85 L
Mash Volume: 13.25 L
sparge volume 21.60
Calculated wort volume: 28.9 L
90 or 120 min mash at 65- 67 C

484g larger malt +2950 wheat malt at 37c for 20 mins min amount of water nice and thick to break down the high level of glucans that wheat malt contains

i may just use 500g of oat hulls ( if you want to use rice/oat hulls then this step can be ignored completely, although it also acts to produce ferrulic acid which is a precursor for one of the banana/clove taste characteristics, it depends on how you want to swing the taste profile of the beer)
It could be a long slow sparge with that much wheat, so 500g of oat hulls should be added to the mash to aid in the lauter


The usual rule is to pitch big . . . Don't . . . this is one of those times when under pitching into cold wort is a good idea. . . If you are using dry yeast (WB-06) one sachet into wort at 12C is fine . . . gradually allow the wort to heat up over the next 4 days to 18C and allow it to finish at that temperature . . . If using Wyeast 3068 or the Whitelabs equivalent . . . pitch the smack pack or tube directly into the wort at 12C, again allow it to rise to 18C over the next 4 or 5 days. . . . this will generate those lovely banana and clove flavours.

Ferment for 7-10 days, then crash cool for another 4 days, to drop a lot of the yeast before transferring to bottles
Prime 5ml per 500 ml bottle
wheat beers and they are best drunk young :drunk:

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I'll bang it all in to beer smith to get my numbers. I always loose quite alot to boiler and my mash effiency is usually 60-75%! I usually have to beef up the grain bill and hops anyway!
 
If you havnt tried beersmith give it ago. You get a months free trial. Also follow the how too on this forum to work out your dead spaces so you get for final volumes and sparge volumes right.
 
There's free online recipe calculator at http://hopville.com, i'm using it as "share-a-recipe" tool (i have some weissbier recipes there too, check at http://hopville.com/brewer/recipes/zgoda).

My simplest weizen recipe is:

65% pale wheat malt
35% pilsner malt

any noble hops for 60' boil to get ~10 IBU (Tettnanger, Hallertauer, Saaz)

Mash:

45C for 30' (this is ferulic acid rest, it will give the clove flavour)
55C for 10' (protein rest, can be skipped if mash is slowly heated)
62C for 20' (can be shortened to 10' if heating is slow or in case of WB-06 yeast)
72C for 45' then mash out at 76C

This is very basic mash schedule, can be replaced with decoction if fancy.

The key is the balance of clove and banana flavours. You control the clove with ferulic acid rest, and banana with fermentation.
longer rest at 45C -> more clove (30' doubles amount of ferulic acid in wort, 15' more makes another 50% more)
higher temp. at the beginning of fermentation -> more banana (if you have Weihenstephan yeast don't go over 21C or the beer will kick your head!)
less yeast (underpitch)/more stress -> more banana, but easy, you don't want stalled fermentation

Sometimes i get proper balance, sometimes it goes off. Check for fermentation temperature and adjust ferulic rest accordingly.

2 weeks in fv, another week for carbonation in bottles and beer is ready. If you have liquid yeast, take 200ml of slurry and brew dunkelweizen. And then weizenbock.

It's really worth it to spend some more money on liquid yeast. Results can not be even compared.
 
pittsy said to do this :thumb:
ive only gotten mine from malt miller , but here is £6 http://www.thehomebrewcompany.co.uk/ind ... ts_id=1027 but don't forget your 500g of dme and 12 330ml water bottles (6 for 56p at asda) and a demi 8 pints of boiled cooled water with 500g of dme in it add to demi with vial and 5 days later mix well pour into 12 bottles you now have 12 vials . Pour off spent wort before making a new starter 100g with a pint of water (boiled etc) leave for 2 days , you can keep doing this with last 1 or 2 vials to make another 12 so price of yeast is infact very cheap (just dme pricey , but you can use left over wort from previous brew that you frooze etc)
 
Brewing this now with WLP300...9 days into ferment and I seem to be a bit stuck at 1020

I started at 12C and increased to 18C as Aleman suggests. The brew still appears to have a healthy looking krausen on top but gravity hasn't moved in 2 days.
Not sure what sort of attenuation I'm expecting from the 300...white labs says 72-76% which should give me 1013-1015 FG.

Normally if things get a bit stuck I dial the temp up to 20C or 21C for a couple of days - white labs says optimum temp 20-22 for this yeast...can anyone see any problem with upping the temp to get it going?
 

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