Hand pull woes

[clownpoison]

Right , gave the pump a quick strip down to have a look at the internals again . This is the cylinder in pieces


I'll call the two valves inlet and outlet (bottom and top of cylinder respectively). I tested the valve function by sealing my mouth over the valves and sucking or blowing (ahem). The inlet valve worked as expected and no leakage against lung power . The outlet valve at the top (pictured in my hand and later dissasembled )was leaking somewhat . I stripped it and turned the O ring over . Seems solid now . Reassable the piston into the cylinder and the piston ring didn't look too circular in the cylinder with a signs of wear and scoring on the piston ring seal . That isn't as easy to replace or swap . I put the whole thing together and managed to draw a pint in around 10 strokes again . The back suck is minimal , only a tiny amount of any at all. The only thing that is untested now is the piston ring seal . If that is bypassing beer then the whole function of the outlet valve is bypassed to a degree in proportion to the leakage within the main cylinder (piston ring seal).

What I really want to know now if how many strokes of the pump to draw a pint from someone who has a similar comparable engine ?

I am using a demand valve close to the intake as you mention PeeBee.

Perhaps I will remove the cylinder ring seal and try to make a new one from some suitable rubber or neoprene .

Looking forward to hearing feedback of stroke numbers to pour a pint .

Cheers

Andy
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these photos have helped a lot. Ive just taken delivery of an old handpull for refurb. The previous owner must have given up on it it would only pull fresh air. took me forever to open, a pan of boiling water a workshop vice and an oil filter wrench did the job. All the seals seem new. But he had assembled the bottom o ring on the piston on the top of the valve and not underneath easy fix Thanks for the pics

 

[clownpoison]

I have the same model and I have it in bits..

The beer engine, plinth and brass are in poor state and need love but the cylinder is clean inside and the seals look new .

How does the retaining disc (in pic 1) fit into the piston, is it threaded or an interference fit. If threaded how to remove ?

EDIT Its threaded. Big thanks to Steve from RLBS who has responded to my questions with great advice, clamp in a vice and used a small alan key and a hammer to lightly spin the disc.

EDIT the o ring was too big and had popped off the metal piston, for those looking in the future the replacement was a 20mm ID O ring.

cheers

 

[clownpoison]

info for brewers of the future. This is the order of the o ring and cork insert at the top of the piston

 

[clownpoison]

update : reassembled and it works a treat. Time for the brasswork and wooden plinth to have some love