Gushing Cwtch

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WarryM

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Hi all,

I've got my first gushing beer - a batch of Cwtch. Was hoping that it was just the first bottle but every one of five has considerably surged over the top. Are the remaining beers wasted or is there anything I can do to save them?

For example, is it feasible to chill a couple of 500ml bottles in the fridge (I've read that they are likely to be less fizzy at cooler temps), then quickly take the lids off and decant into a large jug. Once the head has died down, then pour into a clean 1l PET bottle. If left for a few days in cool temp I'm thinking that maybe the crud that gets mixed up when they surge may once again fall to the bottom but is there likely to be enough CO2 in suspension to partially carbonate again, or will I just end with bottled flat beer?

The beer was stable for three days at 1013, and I batch primed with the recommended amount of sugar.

I realise that I could just let them surge, pour into a jug, wait til the head has died down then pour into a glass and drink, but I like my beer to look clear and not over-keen on the yeastier taste. To be honest the ones that did gush were drunk and they tasted fairly good but just looked like pond water and had a bit of a yeasty taste.

Thanks,
Warren
 
Reading what you say I can't think of much you can do. Gushers are generally down to infection so can't do a lot to solve. If they are just overcarbonated you could just decant and drink when you feel it's OK, but I doubt you'll get clear beer from this batch
 
RGeats,

Thanks for your reply. My mention of the GP wasn't a facetious reply to your post about infection, but rather a response to your first post about the title..

I try to be as careful as possible with sterilising etc, but I guess there's always some point we open up our brews to the air - adding hops, transferring to bottling bucket etc.

I can live with the taste of the beer just not the look of it - so will have to close my eyes when drinking 🙂
 
Gushers are generally down to infection
I disagree with this. I’ve had 3, maybe 4 ,batches of gushers and not a single one was down to infection.

More likely to be bottles not having been cleaned properly; dry hops making their way into the bottle and causing a nucleation point; certain beers/yeasts that continue fermenting in the bottle even though they appear finished; over-carbing.

I agree with you that, other than chilling and decanting to a jug before pouring, there’s nothing the OP can do really but it’s not right to assume he’s had an infection.
 
I disagree with this. I’ve had 3, maybe 4 ,batches of gushers and not a single one was down to infection.

More likely to be bottles not having been cleaned properly; dry hops making their way into the bottle and causing a nucleation point; certain beers/yeasts that continue fermenting in the bottle even though they appear finished; over-carbing.

I agree with you that, other than chilling and decanting to a jug before pouring, there’s nothing the OP can do really but it’s not right to assume he’s had an infection.
I thought a gusher was different to just overcarbonation. But I suppose considering the beer still tastes good it's not an infection just either bits in the bottle of overpriming.
 
@WarryM
Its possible that the primary restarted in your bottles if the gravity was 1.013 at bottling and that is responsible for your gushers, although I don't know what the expected FG for this kit normally turns out to be.
You could try chilling a couple of bottles to as near 0*C as you can manage. That will maximise the amount of CO2 that stays in solution. Then pour into a jug, preferably outside the house.
If they are still gushers you either waste a lot of beer if you want to keep the majority of yeast in the bottles, or you put up with yeasty beer.
Or you could open the lot and pour into an FV, leave it to settle for 2 or 3 days then repackage. If the SG is really low you may have an infection.
Down the sink would be my last option.
Finally, until you decide what to do,I suggest you store the bottles in a cold safe place away from anywhere/anybody where they can cause harm or damage should any explode, which is an extreme possibility.
 
I thought a gusher was different to just overcarbonation. But I suppose considering the beer still tastes good it's not an infection just either bits in the bottle of overpriming.
Of my batches of gushers, 3 were definitely from nucleation points and the 4th was a Liberty Bell that stopped at 1.012 but then continued to ferment in the bottle.

My last WCIPA was the worst for it and you could actually see big bits of hop pellet floating around the bottle.

I also had this incident with a nucleation point where I decided I needed to fill one last bottle, but that was a single bottle issue from my own stupidity as opposed to a batch of gushers
79BD90A6-53B5-447E-B6A7-12AADDC4A658.jpeg
 
I've been plagued by gushers over the years, I think it's down to dirty bottles.

I re-use all my bottles, some are 9 years old, I clean them after each brew but noticed with the few clear ones that there's still some kind of film on the inside, even after a good clean. I've recently started using a weak bleach solution on them, rinsed well afterwards, and now they are spotless. Haven't had any gushers since, although hard to tell if it's fixed as I mainly get them in the hot summer months.

I store all my bottles in sealed plastic crates, limits damage if they go off. I have had one hit the ceiling like Mick, much to the wife's annoyance!
 
Of my batches of gushers, 3 were definitely from nucleation points and the 4th was a Liberty Bell that stopped at 1.012 but then continued to ferment in the bottle.

My last WCIPA was the worst for it and you could actually see big bits of hop pellet floating around the bottle.

I also had this incident with a nucleation point where I decided I needed to fill one last bottle, but that was a single bottle issue from my own stupidity as opposed to a batch of gushers
View attachment 36571
I'd agree that's a gusher!
 
Try taking a couple of bottles down to near freezing - either if you have a temperature controlled fridge or with a freezer - but not actually freezing solid. It should then be possible to open them to relieve the pressure, reseal and let come back to ambient temperature.

Anna
 
Try taking a couple of bottles down to near freezing - either if you have a temperature controlled fridge or with a freezer - but not actually freezing solid. It should then be possible to open them to relieve the pressure, reseal and let come back to ambient temperature.

Anna
The amount of CO2 in a bottle of beer is mostly in solution. If you have a gusher that could be say 3 volumes or even higher which equates to 1500ml plus of C02 gas at ambient pressure (although only say half of that is likely to bubble out over a short space of time). The volume of C02 in the gas space of a bottle is usually no more than 10-15ml and even under a pressure of twice atmos will be no more than 30ml at ambient. So in my view, opening then resealing will not really do very much in releasing a significant amount of CO2 which is the objective. And as I said in post 8 all chilling does is to maximise the amount of CO2 in solution, or put a better way reduces the tendency for it to come out of solution when the bottle is opened, and is therefore the opposite of what you are trying to achieve by opening and resealing.
 
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I've only made Cwtch once (though second attempt on now) and had the very same problem.

Probably couldn't pin it down to an exact thing but I had a nightmare transferring it as my siphon kept getting blocked by hops, something I've since mastered, and for reasons only known to me decided that I wanted it to be a bit more fizzy than a regular ale so added a bit more priming sugar than usual when bottling.

Pretty much every one impossible to pour. In the end I just poured each one carefully into a large jug, let the head die down and then poured it into a pint glass.

Also the clarity of it was never great, bit like pond water but tasted good. Reading other reviews on here of this kit it does seem that it's never the clearest when it's finished but I don't really mind that. Be interesting to see how the batch I have on now will be as this time most of it will be going into a Corny keg.
 
Thanks for all your responses - some interesting points made.

Darrell, regarding bottles - that's useful to know. In this instance I had a mix of re-used (many times) glass bottles and new PET ones, and both suffered the same gushing problem, so probably unlikely but something I'll def watch out for with other brews. My normal bottling routine is to rinse well after use, then a few pumps of the bottle washer containing StarSan, recapped (old lids), stored, then when needed VWPd, brushed, double rinsed, StarSan, filled via wand, and capped (new one of course, this time).

Terry, I like the idea of pouring into fermenting bucket. Will give that a go later in the week with ten bottles or so, to see how it goes. If successful, will do the remainder.

Graz, be interested to hear how you get on with it in your Corny. My bottles are pretty clear until I lift the lid and then the surge churns the crud at the bottom which makes it murky. I used a hop spider, so it isn't as if I have loads of hops in the bottles.

Thanks again.
 

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