https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/spike-steam-lid-used-on-65l-brewzilla.689178/#post-9070523Post 7 has pictures of what I did. There are a few configuration options mine not the same design as kegland and others.
The lid on my Guten is metal so I didn't replace. You'll notice that the lid top part is concave unlike the metal distill lids or the other distill hats. It didn't really make a difference but since then a panel beating friend did beat that part convex.
The hole in the lid on my system was 2 inches so I used a 2 inch bulkhead to TC and then fitted 2 inch before sizing down to 1.5 inch.
For the spray I did eventually get a 1.5 inch plate with a 10mm hole in but I'd already used the 90 degree with the side arm tube bit to fit the connection tube to the water supply and spray. This is supported by silicone tube to make it solid.
Re the spray I picked up a garden spray bottle that had a metal spray nozzle on it ( brass I think) and then I soldered this onto a piece of soft metal copper pipe that connects to the water supply. I run the water supply at 20 psi and then adjusted the spray nozzle, once I was happy with that I fixed it in that spray pattern with some solder.
My arrangement does have some of the steam condensing on the copper pipe before the spray but that hasn't been detrimental. I think the copper reacts with DMS anyway. I do now have a stainless adjustable spray nozzle but haven't bothered to fit it as current system has worked very well for more than 30 brews.
Do make sure you have an angle sloping down so no water can run back into your kettle.
Water use is about 15 litres at most in an hour boil, I use that water for cleaning.
Remember the first part of condenser is hot so don't pick lid up by that part.
I put a towel on the lid and a tea towel around the first part to keep lid and early condenser hot which encourages steam to condense where I want it to.
Inspection hole is useful for looking in and hop additions and other stuff. I cut the hole to use the lid from a kilner jar, they come in several sizes and smaller would be fine on a smaller system. Clip the lid down if you can.
You must reduce the boil power though, I only need 25% to keep a rolling boil/ simmer.
chapeau! I am planning jost to use a bit of 80mm stainless flue pipe or if not that some stainless tube of maybe 50 mm. I have a nieghbour who is a welder and I thik he has a plasma cutter so I am going to ask him if he can do the job. My plan is not to have it condensing but to stick the flue out of a small but handy window in my brewhouse. I am hoping the steam will heat the vertical section enough to get it over an acute bend into another section which will be outside the window where the steam will condense and drip out.
Still have to get a hole cut and a exit pipe welded on though and a hop port cut too.
i’ll fuff it up again 
