Fitting a Schrader valve to a Youngs beer Keg

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

KneeDownMarce

New Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2019
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Hi everyone,
I've just finished my first homebrew kit (American Beers IPA Microbrewery Premium 40 Pint Starter Set - came with a Youngs Keg - from brewuk.co.uk) and wanted to ask some of your expert advice on how to fit a schrader valve to the cap.

The Keg I have seems to have lost pressure, despite me adding 8g bulbs as required - so I don't want to put another brew in it until I can be sure it will hold its pressure. Net wisdom seems to suggest that adding a schrader bicycle valve to the kegs cap, will enable me to pressurize it and test if it leaks, but I can't find any video's or instructions on what I need to buy or how to fit it.

Schrader "cores" are easily obtainable, but don't look like something I could connect a bicycle pump to - so presumably there's something else they fit inside.

I'm probably missing something very obvious and would be very grateful for any pointers in the right direction!

Am currently brewing a Wiko's Mexican Cerveza lager, and due to the the above issues, I will try bottling it this weekend instead of putting it in a keg. That too, will be something new to try.

It's all a learning curve, and I would be grateful for any advice! :-)
 
Another hole is another potential leak point.

Best way to test for a leak is to pressure it with a sparklets then use a solution of 50/50 washing up liquid & water.
I then use an artists 1/2" wide paint brush to brush the washing up mixture around both seals, if there's a leak the liquid will bubble.

IME leaks are caused by overtightening either the cap or the tap and or both ( this causes the seal to deform so it doesn't seal correctly) and or not enough lube on the seals, I also lube the threads as well.
To tighten, I tighten both hand tight then 1/4 turn with an oil filter wrench.
 
HI Woody,

Thanks for the advice - and yes I get what you mean about a valve is adding another potential leak point. I used vaseline (not much) on the seals and then hand tightened the cap and tap as much as I could, but didn't use any tools so I doubt they're over tightened. More likely the opposite. In fact I do remember having a small leak from the tap when I first filled it, so had to tighten it more (by hand).

So I think you're suggesting that I should fill my barrel almost to the top with water, use a CO2 bulb to pressurize it and then spray a mixture of water/washing up liquid over the barrel and look for bubbles. (I've seen a youtube video of that part at least).

Thanks for your help! :-)
 
Thanks WeirdFish,

Yes, I saw that cap in another post up here, but thought it was quite expensive for what it is... particularly as I'm on the verge of forgetting keg's altogether and using bottles instead. So was looking for a cheap way of pressurizing the Keg without wasting Co2 or beer! :-)

Are plastic kegs a bit useless? I've seen a lot of posts of people losing pressure to leaks in them.
 
Search for 'tubeless schrader valves' and you'll find something like this. They're what I've fitted to barrels and use them to make carbonation caps for pop bottles. You've just got to drill a hole. Can't remember what size as I just compared the size of the barrel to my drill bits. You can turn the rubber valves around so the flatter part lies against the barrel or cap which makes for a better seal.

Are plastic kegs a bit useless? I've seen a lot of posts of people losing pressure to leaks in them.

I'd say you'd be mad to get one new if you could possibly start a Cornie keg setup. Plastic pressure barrels are unreliable, you can't force carb in them, the little co2 bulbs cost about 18 times as much as a pub cylinder in gas. And serving from them is crap. 20 pints of foam, 3 normal pints, then add a co2 cylinder or wait days for it to ferment up a bit more co2.
 
Last edited:
Thanks WeirdFish,

Yes, I saw that cap in another post up here, but thought it was quite expensive for what it is... particularly as I'm on the verge of forgetting keg's altogether and using bottles instead. So was looking for a cheap way of pressurizing the Keg without wasting Co2 or beer! :-)

Are plastic kegs a bit useless? I've seen a lot of posts of people losing pressure to leaks in them.
There are many threads and posts on plastic PBs on this forum. The most recent big thread is here.
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/plastic-pressure-barrels.83852/
Opinion is divided. You either like them or you don't. When they work they are great but when they leak they are frustrating at best. I have had four in recent years and three failed due to splits or holes. My advice to you if you are going the schraeder valve route for testing is to buy a cap with one fitted rather than modifying the PB or cap. If you modify a pressure containing item you really don't know what you are doing to the integrity of the item. However perhaps your cheapest option is to use one CO2 bulb and go round all joints, cap and the shell with soapy water and see if they are any leaks. Even the smallest leak will stop your PB holding pressure but should show up using the soapy water. But when you eventually get to test it don't assume its the cap seal. It could be the CO2 relief valve, valve gaskets or even the main body somewhere most likely the seams. I have also had a cap split, although you wouldn't know it if you casually looked at it. And I have even had one fail with a tiny pinhole which sent a jet of beer away from the PB. So yes, I think they are a bit useless.
 
HI Woody,


So I think you're suggesting that I should fill my barrel almost to the top with water, use a CO2 bulb to pressurize it and then spray a mixture of water/washing up liquid over the barrel and look for bubbles. (I've seen a youtube video of that part at least).

Thanks for your help! :-)

You can fill it with water but you don't need to, an empty barrel will work just as well with CO2

Vaseline both the male and female threads of your cap and tap
 
I agree...plastic pb's are hit and miss. I've got my two to seal and hold pressure with Terry's fettling advice but as they're kept outside in my shed the freezing temps force the CO2 into the beer causing keg pressure to drop. Adding more gas to get the beer out is the solution or waiting until they warm up a bit...
Such fun! No wonder a kegerator looks appealing.
 
If your keg has a pressure relief valve or a valve with that built in, then you can try 3 tablespoons of sodium bicarbonate and about half a cup of vinegar - then screw the cap on.
The mixture produces CO2, but you don't know how much - so you need the relief valve be be safe.
That quantity should not create a dangerous pressure but be enough to pressurise the barrel to test it with soapy water. I found kids bubble stuff to be good at finding leaks.

I suggest sanding the neck on a flat board to start with, and check visually for any knocks or scratches to that seal face. Sand in a rotary motion so that any scratches you produce don't go from inside to outside.

Sometimes the inside of the pressure relief valve corrodes under the band and you can't see it if it is made of aluminium.
 
I turn the barrel upside down, blow down the spigot dead hard and then turn the tap off. You can gets a fair amount of pressure if you're an athlete like me.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top