Fermentation temps and chamber questions

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Stephenj

Landlord.
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Hi all, another annoying 'what should I do/what do you recommend?' post for you. Not sure if this is the right part of the forum.

I want/need to start fermenting in the garage due to now doing more regular/larger batches than previous so house no good really. I'm trying to do this on the cheap, around 4-5- quid all in. I mainly brew pale ales, but have recently done a blonde using lager yeast, so these are the 2 main types I'll be doing. I have a small chest freezer, but the FV with airlock is about 2cm too high to close the lid.

I plan on brewing lagers in the winter when temps are lower, so don't really need to spend money (40 quid about the going rate on gumtree) on something which won't really be on. Pale Ales are what I mostly drink so more likely gonna need to warm rather than cool. I know I could do this in the fridge, but again is the cost worth it?

Next option was to maybe build a simple chamber using plywood and insulation (2mm thick?) and stick some sort of heater in there using the inkbird to regulate. Costs would be a little lower as I can get the wood for free or at least v cheap. I could add iced bottles if too hot in summer, but I would think that in Gateshead the temp would max out at about 25 degrees top in summer.

In terms of heating, 2ft tube heater is about 17quid, or a repile mat (40com) is about 6quid. I was thinking of either using it like a wrap (would need 2 I suppose), or would it work if i placed some type of foil over the top of it, and have the FV's raised about it slightly so no direct heat?

I've looked on the 'how to' thread without really answering my questions, so your input is very welcome.
 
If you already have a chest freezer and it's only slight too short with the airlock, why not try a blow-off tube? might save you few centimetres.

There's lots of advantages to having a fridge/freezer as a fermentation. As well as being a cooling source for keeping fermentation temps down the other big advantage is cold crashing and lagering.

I'm currently without a brew fridge after my last one packed in so have been using the current climate to manage my fermentations. I put my FV in the coldest room in my house, ranges between 8 and 12 degrees. I then use a brew belt to stop the fermenting wort dropping too low for the yeast to function. I'm using a hybrid yeast strain at the moment. Ground water is so cold I can chill my wort down to 12 degrees C - lower if I wanted - then pitch my yeast and let the fermentation raise the temp naturally. I have a brew belt set at my inkbird to 12 degrees. I set the heating differential low (0.3 degrees) and cooling differential high to stop that loop cycling on all the time. the only down side is you need to keep an eye on and keep adjusting the temp on the controller as the fermentation temp rises. I've had good results doing the so far and will likely continue to use this method until the start of summer and get a fridge them. alternatively I could start brewing saisons etc.
 
Whatever heat source you go for you really need a controller/regulator - a lot on here use an inkbird to regulate the heating - otherwise your tube heater or heating mat will be on permanently and risk overheating your brew.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018K82UQU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

If you can make a chamber for nothing it could be a very good option as you could make it a bit bigger and maybe have it take a Fermentation Vessel (or two) plus space/shelving for bottles so you can carb up bottles in there also.

If its actually going to cost you £20 for wood and insulation you might be as well to just go for a fridge off ebay/gumtree for £20-30 if you can find one locally.

The cooling option of a fridge can be handy for lagering or crash cooling a brew or even just cooling a fermenting brew a little in the summer when temps creep up a bit or during the vigorous stages of initial fermentation when the brew itself wants to push the temp up a bit above preferred ferment temp.

An inkbird 308 will control both the heating side and the fridge cooling side so you set your temp to say 19°C and the heater cycles in if things cool off and the fridge gets cycled in if the temp climbs too high.

I've sometimes started DIY jobs thinking they will cost me nothing and then when totting up what I've actually spent I think I should have just bought something ready made.

A 40w or 60w tube heater is more than enough - think mine is a 60w, 30cm (1foot) long and is more than ample in a brewfridge.
 
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An alternative to the blowoff tube is to build a collar for your freezer to give that extra bit of height. Not as cheap as a tube, but another option.

As @JonBrew said, there are multiple advantages to having a fride/freezer, so if you can, go with that.
 
just seen the reference to a chest freezer, so yes that fitted with a collar to lift the lid could be a great option - with tube heater and inkbird 308 added to control everything
 
Cheers so far guys. I have an inkbird so have the regulation side of things sorted.

Things I'm going through in my head are the fact I want to brew more regularly, and if I say extend up on the chest freezer or use a blowoff (which would actually work as there is a space in the bottom of the freezer created by a half shelf thing (think its were the mechs are) I would still only have 1 FV at a time in there. My other thought was using food grade jerry cans with airlocks cut into the caps. Their size and shape would mean I could get 2 in the freezer.

I'm struggling to find a tall fridge only appliance, which could fit 2 FV's in at the moment on ebay or gumtree. Is there a way of turning off a freezer part of a fridge freezer?
 
Just use a normal fermenting bin with a snap on lid - you don't need an airlock or blow-off tube at all. That would save you some height. Also, if you don't need to chill you should be able to pick up a non working fridge for nowt.
 
I hear ya, I wish I could have more than one fermenting at a time, but that's how it is for me right now. The jerry cans, or cubes, sound like a good idea though.

Why do you need a tall fridge only? Get a tall freezer instead, the inkbird will regulate the temp so it doesn't freeze. Just make sure that the shelves haven't got cooling elements running through them otherwise they are are a pain to remove/push out of the way. Especially if you want to fit more than one FV in there.
 
I was thinking that with a tall (5ft) fridge I could have 2 on the go at once by using a shelf in the middle. Never seen a tall freezer advertised anywhere I've looked - maybe a few more searches needed.

There are plenty of 'normal' freezer on the bottom, fridge on the top type appliances, hence the question about turning the freezer part off.
 
I have a small chest freezer, but the FV with airlock is about 2cm too high to close the lid.
You can do away with the airlock... Soak a clean cloth in sanitizer solution and place over the bung hole on the lid. This will give you enough room for the FV. Once the yeast starts to work, there is very little chance of infection.
 
You can do away with the airlock... Soak a clean cloth in sanitizer solution and place over the bung hole on the lid. This will give you enough room for the FV. Once the yeast starts to work, there is very little chance of infection.

Just laying over the top of the hole?

Here's the freezer I have. About 43x36 with 7cm space from top of FV to door when closed. There's space in bottom section to stick a tube heater, or could add a thin plywood shelf and put a reptile heater underneath

Doable?
 

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What would I do without seeing all those bubbles?!?!?!?!?! :wink:

Got me thinking here people. Might just go with using no airlock in the freezer I have. Do we think a tube heater (17quid) or a mat heater which I could sit it on or half wrap (6 quid) would be best for temp control?
 
Looking at your photos got me thinking, are you using bubbler airlocks, or the two piece handy ones? After I built my brew fridge (MDF frame + 2" polystyrene insulation, with a husky fridge at one end to provide the cooling) I found that a 23 litre FV with bubbler was too tall to fit in, but by switching to the handy airlocks saved 6-7cm and all was fine.
 
Looking at your photos got me thinking, are you using bubbler airlocks, or the two piece handy ones? After I built my brew fridge (MDF frame + 2" polystyrene insulation, with a husky fridge at one end to provide the cooling) I found that a 23 litre FV with bubbler was too tall to fit in, but by switching to the handy airlocks saved 6-7cm and all was fine.

Ahhhh. I'm using a bubbler on a 23l as thats what the LHBS guy gave me. I've got the 2 peice that i've been using with the 1 gallon DJ. Might test that out.

Failing that, I could just go the sanitised cloth route. Not expecting any volatile brews.

I'm interested to know more about your brew fridge.
 
Ahhhh. I'm using a bubbler on a 23l as thats what the LHBS guy gave me. I've got the 2 peice that i've been using with the 1 gallon DJ. Might test that out.

Failing that, I could just go the sanitised cloth route. Not expecting any volatile brews.

I'm interested to know more about your brew fridge.
This is my setup.
P_20180302_160032.jpg

Old Husky drinks fridge, mdf shell, polystyrene insulation with inkbird controlling fridge and tubular heater.
P_20180302_160112.jpg

I added an LED light strip connected to a microswitch in the door and a USB fan.
P_20180302_160121.jpg
Can fit two 23 litre FV's in comfortably, with space for another 20 or so bottles for carbing.
 
Hi!
1. You are fermenting in a closed "box"; as long as it is clean (and sanitised, if you want) you won't need to worry about an airlock - lay the lid on loosely.
2. The idea suggested by @MmmBeer could be adapted for your freezer - build a chamber around the freezer (size to suit how many FVs you want) and use fans to direct the cool air around the chamber.
3. Plastic jerry cans would make excellent FVs.
4. Don't forget that you won't need any cooling for most of the year - I have a winter fermentation chamber that has only a tubular heater - it works perfectly. I used t&g board that I had lying around, polystyrene, bubble wrap and corrugated card as insulation, also lying around.
 

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