Electrim type boilers

[dickiedavis]

Hi All,

I'm thinking about doing some extract brewing after Xmas and was wondering about boilers. I can't afford those lovely shiny stainless steel jobs, so was wondering if anyone had experience of using the Electrim ones? I see they have a new digital type affair out at just over 100 quid, and that's a big outlay for me - are they worth it? I see an older version for around 80 quid is available too. Anyone use these?

I just hope Santa brings me cash this year and not socks

Cheers,

D.

 

[Underground Joe]

You can make yourself a stainless steel one for the same money, possibly a little less if you shop around for parts and will last forever.

 

[markmark]

I would agree.
I think you will get a much better pot for around the same money as an Electrim........it depends really on how confident you are with your DIY and what tools you have or can borrow.
Rob at the Malt Miller offers some nice pots in various sizes.....he will cut whatever holes you need prior to shipping. If you can afford the nice ball valves (which I would recommend) he will fit those too.....etc etc. Plenty of advice here on fitting elements or go with a gas burner if you prefer.

 

[dickiedavis]

Thanks guys. Just seen that The Malt Miller isn't that far from where I work (Thanks!), but I've been wondering about thermostats and such. Do I need one fitted? Or is a boil a boil - just like a kettle does without any temp control at all?

Mr Confused.

 

[Fil]

Many brewers use em, evident by the fact they are still on sale. but for me i think they are just a little too small for a comfortable boil with a 23-25l target volume. as i generally start a boil for a 23-5L target with 30+L boilling off circa 7L in 90 mins.

if u can borrow the use of Qmax punch cutters from a nearby brewer a SS pot build can come in cheaper, but if you go 100% SS with valves/fittings it may still cost a bit more depending on how much h/ware you build in (sightglass etc..) but u get a really nice bit of custom kit that will last a lifetime.

thing with AG brewing is there is a lot more time elapsed
compared to a kit brew which post sanitation of the FV etc is a 30 minute job, so you may soon start wanting more pints per hour spent brewing to show for your efforts ( the beer being Xtra delicious also contributes)..

So a 50l or even 70l SS pot build would provide you with a wee bit of room to brew more without having to source a new boiler

a SS stockpot is pretty cheap if you source it direct from a european supplier which u can find on ebay.fr with a search for "70l inox marmite" ive bought from 'bergland', just find a seller and email em asking for a quote to deliver to the UK you will probably get an offer off ebay for less than the ebay.fr price published (mutual benefit of no ebay auction charges)

to cut initial costs u can use brass plumbing bits n bobs for connecting valves etc and perhaps consider upgrading to SS bits as you progress with the hobby, or not, brass bits work very well.

 

[Jeltz]

I have an electrim that I now use as an HLT, I upgraded as trying to do 23L brews it was a little too small

If I had known what I do now I wouldn't have bought one ready made I would have made one myself and would have based it on a 60L fermenter and element and tap from Peco(who make the electrim) then you are set if you want to go to BIAB after your extract brews (which you will)

 

[oldjiver]

My 33litre shiny + element cost around £100 from Rob. Top quality, lasts longer than plastic. You can just make a hole in a polypropylene bin and stick a heater in there very cheaply, google around. But the shiny looks good works well and lasts. (I took the hop strainer off as I dont use one)

 

[dickiedavis]

Wow! That for around the same price as a plastic one! Well, I'm gradually being drawn to the shiney side... One thing I am totally cluless about (well, another of many things I am clueless about) - on the oldjiver shiney for example, do you need to have some kind of thermostat to control the boil, or just turn it on and let it go?! Will that be what I have read is a 'rolling boil?'

I'm **** at doing stuff like drilling and cutting holes, fil, so I guess that I'd need to get one ready made. That stainless pot looks lovely. I reckon I could even leave that on the work surface and SWMBO wouldn't mind tooo much. Although at 33L, I guess it is the size of a small car.

 

[Underground Joe]

do you need to have some kind of thermostat to control the boil, or just turn it on and let it go?! Will that be what I have read is a 'rolling boil?'

Just turn on and it will get to a rolling boil. If you have the space and can afford it the extra, get the 50l not the 33l. You'll really be glad of the extra size.

 

[Jeltz]

If you want to do 5 gallon brews 33L is tight, 50L is much better as it allows the space to avoid boil overs. With elements its basically on or off, you can make a kind of dimmer to reduce the power but not many people bother.

Many people have 2 elements to bring it to the boil faster then turn one off but if you do its advisable to run each from different ring mains if your house has them (eg kitchen and downstairs) or at very least from different sockets as each element will probably be drawing 2.4Kw or more.

mrlard would supply you with a 50L one ready made with 1 element (don't know what price) and that would be OK it would just take a while to get to the boil.

 

[oldjiver]

Wow! That for around the same price as a plastic one! Well, I'm gradually being drawn to the shiney side... One thing I am totally cluless about (well, another of many things I am clueless about) - on the oldjiver shiney for example, do you need to have some kind of thermostat to control the boil, or just turn it on and let it go?! Will that be what I have read is a 'rolling boil?'

I'm **** at doing stuff like drilling and cutting holes, fil, so I guess that I'd need to get one ready made. That stainless pot looks lovely. I reckon I could even leave that on the work surface and SWMBO wouldn't mind tooo much. Although at 33L, I guess it is the size of a small car.

You don't need a thermostat, just leave the lid on till it boils, then move it slightly open until you get the rolling boil but not the boil over! If you order one from Rob the Maltmiller he will cut the 40mm hole for £9. The £100 was for the complete rig, Pot, cut hole,Tap, hose barb, hop strainer, and electric element and lead.

 

[danb]

I'd have to say go for 50l. I used to use a 30l urn and it was pain holding wort back because there isn't space and watching for boilovers. In the 50l it all goes in and I can do other things, without constantly watching the boil.

 

[Swiller]

Just to sidetrack a bit, does anyone use an aluminium pan as an HLT? It would be lighter to shift around and easier to cut holes in.

 

[oldjiver]

I looked up aluminium for beer/food and it seems to get a qualified clean bill of health. HOWEVER I did see that copper and aluminium in the same liquid will cause an electrolytic action leading to pitting? which means metal is getting into the liquid. :sick: So a copper hop strainer in an aluminium pot would be a no-no I would think..
As regards weight my 33 litre pot is very light, and as aluminium would be much thicker I don't think there's much in it.
(P.S.) The easiest way to cut a hole is let Rob do it!

 

[dickiedavis]

Hi all,

Thanks for all the advice - I kind of know what I want (a nice shiney thing) but will have to wait until sata has been and hopefully dropped a bit of cash in my stocking. Merry Xmas all!