Dry hopping

[Budgie]

I've got an IPA on the go at the moment that I want to dry hop. It's been fermenting since last Tuesday, I haven't checked the gravity yet but I suspect it'll be somewhere near FG in the next few days.

I haven't dry hopped before so I'm looking for a bit of reassurance more than anything before if go chucking things in. From what I've read its a good idea to crash cool first then rack to a secondary FV. But would there be any problem in cooling then adding the hops to the primary FV?

My next question is on AAUs. Again, from what I've read its a good idea to use hops with AA ratings less than 6. I've only got Chinook (which I've used for the brew) which is 14.6AAU and Northdown leaf which is 10.2. Are these any good for dry hopping or will they be too strong?

Also any suggestions on how much to use for a 10 litre batch? I guess this depends on hops and personal taste to a great extend but any guidance would be appreciated.

The recipe is here if it helps. http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=63283

Vielen dank :)

 

[HebridesRob]

Think this is one of those things that people will do differently without much difference in results.
I wait for the initial fast fermentation to be over, chuck the hops in, leave for a few days (4-7), rack to another vessel to get the beer off the hops & debris, cold crash.
My theory is hop oils are more likely to diffuse into the beer if it's a bit warmer. I don't dry hop from the beginning because wisdom says the hop aroma will be lost with the gases driven off during the fermentation. I suspect the results will be similar however it's done.

 

[HebridesRob]

The AA content of Citra is huge. They get used for dry-hopping a lot. Plenty of people use Target for dry hopping, AA pretty high.

Northdown and Chinook are both listed as "Dual purpose" hops so would be suitable for dry hopping. I see no reason not to use both but you might not want to. Chinook have pine notes while Northdown have fruit notes.

If it's the first time you're dry hopping, perhaps you should be fairly conservative at around 20g? If you want to be bold, you can't really put too much in, I used something like 80g of various hops in 22 litres for my last American IPA. Some people use hundreds of grams.

 

[JapanBrew]

You want to plan it for about 4 days before bottling. If you leave the hops too long, you'll get this grassy taste.
If you use strong hops, after bottling, let them condition a bit longer. You'll see the taste and aroma mellow out. Not so much as to fade, more like mix and mature.

 

[Budgie]

Cheers guys. I think I might go for 10g of each and see how it turns out. Just checked the gravity and it's at 1016. It started at 1059 so I don't think it's going to do much more, but I'll be leaving it a few more days anyway.

One more question if I may, the only other FVs I have are 23L. If I rack a 10 litre brew to a bigger vessel I'd be worried about oxidisation. (Rightly or wrongly, I'm not really sure!) would there be any reason not to chuck them in the primary FV?

 

[dan125]

Cheers guys. I think I might go for 10g of each and see how it turns out. Just checked the gravity and it's at 1016. It started at 1059 so I don't think it's going to do much more, but I'll be leaving it a few more days anyway.

One more question if I may, the only other FVs I have are 23L. If I rack a 10 litre brew to a bigger vessel I'd be worried about oxidisation. (Rightly or wrongly, I'm not really sure!) would there be any reason not to chuck them in the primary FV?

Plenty of people who don't use a 2ndry just chuck them in the primary FV.
4-5 days is good, but I've left them for 2 weeks without any problems.
:

 

[Simonh82]

You want to plan it for about 4 days before bottling. If you leave the hops too long, you'll get this grassy taste.
If you use strong hops, after bottling, let them condition a bit longer. You'll see the taste and aroma mellow out. Not so much as to fade, more like mix and mature.

My last brew had the dry hops in it for 18 days. I didn't intend for them to be in there so long but and I didn't get any grassy flavours. That was 60g each of Cascade and Styrian Cardinal.

 

[dan125]

Just realiseded that I've used/will be using between 56g & 120g of dry hops in every beer in my signature.

 

[chub1]

I have been dry hopping my beers for 5-7 days and a couple a tad longer, no problems

 

[Budgie]

Great. I certainly feel like I know what in doing a bit more now.

Just realiseded that I've used/will be using between 56g & 120g of dry hops in every beer in my signature.

What size batches are they?

 

[dan125]

Great. I certainly feel like I know what in doing a bit more now.



What size batches are they?

All approx. 24L
:

 

[JapanBrew]

I don't think it's about being just fine. You're putting in, gram for gram, the most expensive part of brewing, hops. There are plenty of tests that talk about oil diffusion and the best amount of time to get the maximum amount of flavor. After, those oils attach to the yeast and settle to the bottom along with the trub. 4 days and most of the oils are still in suspension.

 

[Godsdog]

dry hopped a wilko hoppy copper done with golden syrup in the fv with a teabag of cascade and a teabag of lemon grass for the final 5 days prior to kegging.tried a sneaky preview today and what can I say its wonderfully zesty/citrus which I am a big fan of,will certainly do it again for sure

 

[Budgie]

So, I bottled this one today. I went with 10g of Chinook and 10g of Northern Brewer on Wednesday so they've had 4 days in there.

When I transfered it to my bottling bucket the smell was amazing. Tastes really good too. I'm looking forward to having a preper go at it in about 6 weeks time.

 

[JapanBrew]

Nice job. You're gonna love it.