Pavalijo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2020
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Hi, I am new to home brewing after one brew 30 years ago (which went well but I was too busy). I have done 3 brews and am on the fourth.
The Munton IPA was ruined by brewing in the heatwave (20 litres at 5.5% ish available in Halifax if anyone wants it for distilling). The next, Festival NZ Pilsner is drinking nicely, although I dry hopped as instructed on day 5/6 and fermentation went on almost another 3 weeks. I left the Razorback dry hopping a little later but still the primary fermentation went on another 2 weeks or so, even though I kept temperature at a pretty constant 22c. It tastes great so not complaining, but I read that dry hopping at the end of primary fermentation for 2 or 3 days is the best practice, but also that dry hopping can wake up a slowing fermentation.
I now have a Monterey Jack Pink Grapefruit IPA on the go. It has gone nicely over the first week at a consistent 20c. I am thinking of the following dry hopping method, once the gravity has almost reached the target or bubbling stopped (and dry hopping at this stage might wake up the yeast to get the job finished?):
Using a sterilised Sainsbury’s fruit bag, insert dry hops (pellets in this case) with a few teaspoons. Tie up and suspend on sterilised fishing line just above the trub level and with the fishing line up through the airlock bung hole, held in place with the bung. Twice daily very gentle raising and lowering to increase contact with the ale whilst avoiding aerating (any gas introduced will presumably be CO2 anyway). Remove after 3 days (will have to remove lid to do this). Leave at least 2 days to let anything escaping from the bag to settle before bottling.
I have this type of fermenter rather than my bucket with full width lid which I think is helpful for this method (deeper and also the narrower neck will help to keep mostly co2 in the airspace when introducing the bag).
Any comments?
The Munton IPA was ruined by brewing in the heatwave (20 litres at 5.5% ish available in Halifax if anyone wants it for distilling). The next, Festival NZ Pilsner is drinking nicely, although I dry hopped as instructed on day 5/6 and fermentation went on almost another 3 weeks. I left the Razorback dry hopping a little later but still the primary fermentation went on another 2 weeks or so, even though I kept temperature at a pretty constant 22c. It tastes great so not complaining, but I read that dry hopping at the end of primary fermentation for 2 or 3 days is the best practice, but also that dry hopping can wake up a slowing fermentation.
I now have a Monterey Jack Pink Grapefruit IPA on the go. It has gone nicely over the first week at a consistent 20c. I am thinking of the following dry hopping method, once the gravity has almost reached the target or bubbling stopped (and dry hopping at this stage might wake up the yeast to get the job finished?):
Using a sterilised Sainsbury’s fruit bag, insert dry hops (pellets in this case) with a few teaspoons. Tie up and suspend on sterilised fishing line just above the trub level and with the fishing line up through the airlock bung hole, held in place with the bung. Twice daily very gentle raising and lowering to increase contact with the ale whilst avoiding aerating (any gas introduced will presumably be CO2 anyway). Remove after 3 days (will have to remove lid to do this). Leave at least 2 days to let anything escaping from the bag to settle before bottling.
I have this type of fermenter rather than my bucket with full width lid which I think is helpful for this method (deeper and also the narrower neck will help to keep mostly co2 in the airspace when introducing the bag).
Any comments?