DIY Build a Fermentation Refridgerator

[Simonh82]

Someone posted this the other day but I thought I'd add it to this thread.

The Inkbird people behind the ITC-308 are doing 20% off if you like their facebook page and send them a PM on homebrewtalk http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=562773. Offer runs out tomorrow 11th Dec so move fast!

I received my discount code and purchase one for £26 including delivery. I really doubt I could do an STC-1000 build for cheaper and it definitely wouldn't be as neat and tidy.

 

[Badseed1974]

Apologies in advance for the probably daft question, but am I right in thinking that all I need to do is plug a fridge and an aquarium heater into this box and set the temp?

Seems almost too easy

 

[GlentoranMark]

Apologies in advance for the probably daft question, but am I right in thinking that all I need to do is plug a fridge and an aquarium heater into this box and set the temp?

Seems almost too easy

That's my question as well.

Do I plug the fridge into one of the sockets of the temperature controller and the heater into the other and put the sensor into the fridge?

If so, it does seem pretty easy, the only things extra is drilling holes in the fridge and fixing the heater.

 

[Badseed1974]

That's my question as well.

Do I plug the fridge into one of the sockets of the temperature controller and the heater into the other and put the sensor into the fridge?

If so, it does seem pretty easy, the only things extra is drilling holes in the fridge and fixing the heater.

According to this you might get away with not drilling at all.

http://www.berrybrew.co.uk/fermentation-fridge-build-brew-fridge/

 

[Simonh82]

That's certainly what I'm planning on doing, based on other posts. If I'm feeling adventurous I may add a 12v PC fan to move air around a bit.

I've also seen people suggest you can get the heater and sensor wires out of the drain holes of some fridges, although this may not be possible on all of them.

 

[GlentoranMark]

What about those domestic fridges with a freezer compartment? Can we remove it or will it just make the fridge smaller?

 

[marinali29]

If you have a plug temp controller, yes of course it's quite just plug in with 1 cooling and another 1 heating. No need to DIY or something else. :thumb:

That's my question as well.

Do I plug the fridge into one of the sockets of the temperature controller and the heater into the other and put the sensor into the fridge?

If so, it does seem pretty easy, the only things extra is drilling holes in the fridge and fixing the heater.

 

[Leon103]

How hot and how cold can you sent it?

 

[McMelloW]

Some Years ago I build myself a STC-1000 in an old modembox for my fermentation fridge. See the picture.

A couple of weeks ago I ordered an ITC-308 EU outlet version
Here is my review:
It was delivered at my home within 3 days. Packed well protected in an extra box. The manual is clear and easy to understand. No questions left on how to operate this device.

I did test it with and compared it with my STC-1000 from an unkown brand.
The device was easy to calibrate to zero in melting ice-cubes. I warmed the two probes together in my hand and cooled them again in ice-water a number of times. The temperatures and switch moments were only a few tenth of degrees Celius from each other.
After that I connected the ITC-308 to my fermenting fridge while fermenting beer. It works OK so far. Set one alarm on a critical value, to see when the alarm was active. This also worked OK.
Ofcourse I opened the device to see how the internal wiring was done and took some pictures of the device.

My overall conclusion:
It is a solid build device and CE certified. With the same specifications as an STC-1000. But it has a low and high temperature alarm as extra. Very handy. All you need for a plug and play fermenting fridge. The price is almost the same of a STC-1000 plus all the components to box it. But it saves you all the DIY stuff and wiring. For me it is an affordable alternative for a STC-1000. I am quite happy with it.

 

[ManseMasher]

I have just won one in a competition! Looking forward to getting it hooked up. Wanted to control my mash/sparge water with it but my elements are 3kW, the inkbird is only rated to 10a I believe?

 

[McMelloW]

I have just won one in a competition! Looking forward to getting it hooked up. Wanted to control my mash/sparge water with it but my elements are 3kW, the inkbird is only rated to 10a I believe?

Yes, 10A for each relay and one at the time. For elements of 3KW you need SSR's to switch them. In that case you need something else then an ITC-308

 

[ManseMasher]

Yes, 10A for each relay and one at the time. For elements of #KW you need SSR's to switch them. In that case you need something else then an ITC-308

That's what I thought! Thanks for your help, guess I'll be building a control panel!

 

[Steved53]

Yes, 10A for each relay and one at the time. For elements of #KW you need SSR's to switch them. In that case you need something else then an ITC-308

Couldn't you just take the plug out section of the ITC-308 for the heating, and use a plug with cable attached, and attach the bare wires to a 40 amp SSR? You could then take the output from the SSR to the high KW heating source?

 

[McMelloW]

Couldn't you just take the plug out section of the ITC-308 for the heating, and use a plug with cable attached, and attach the bare wires to a 40 amp SSR? You could then take the output from the SSR to the high KW heating source?

If you have a SSR-40A with the correct input. Which must be the same as the output voltage of the ITC-308 You can do that. Still I would not recommend it.
If you want to control heating elements get a PID with an SSR-40A.

 

[Steved53]

I agree with idea of just getting a pid controller and an SSR-40A - it seems a no brainer. I just think the hysteresis with an ITC-308 would be too wide for accurate mash temperature control.

Just took a look at my pid controller and SSR. The output on the SSR is from 24 -380v. However, whilst I thought the input would also accept 220/240v, it is in fact limited to 3-32v. So, I have 24v feeding the pid and exiting the pid as it switches on. This is attached to the SSR at the input and 220v is wired at the output, such that it switches on whenever there is 24v at the input.

Steve.

 

[GlentoranMark]

Yes, 10A for each relay and one at the time. For elements of 3KW you need SSR's to switch them. In that case you need something else then an ITC-308

What about a single 2.4kw element from a peco boiler?

Thanks to this thread and Manse's question I'm also thinking about temperature control for my boiler so I can use it as a mashtun.

 

[ManseMasher]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Single-Ph...50V-to-AC-240V-20A-High-Quality-/251809782929

Mains voltage input and output. Would this do the trick?

 

[McMelloW]

What about a single 2.4kw element from a peco boiler?

Thanks to this thread and Manse's question I'm also thinking about temperature control for my boiler so I can use it as a mashtun.

I would not recommend an ITC-3008 for controlling the temperature of your mashtun. The 10Amps relays are also on the edge when using a 2400W element.
24004w / 230V = 10.4Amps
For a mashtun you might consider a PID with a SSR. Or if you have a single vessel system look for an Open Ardbir This can automate your brewing process