Corny kegs.....if I buy?

[Steve62]

Is there a user guide for cornies? Would I want John guest or barbed disconnects? Which taps go with these connects? So many decisions... Or should I persevere with King kegs

 

[YeastFace]

Sure a kind soul could write you something, or could link you to a decent guide. Bri had a thread when he first got his so might be worth looking for that.

Personal preference. I use JG as like being able to change/reuse the line and easier for cleaning.

Most faucets will be fine. Dependent on temperature/line diameter and length. I believe you can use beer engines (a la cask beer) of that's what you're after, otherwise you should be able to get a tap for your needs. I use flowcontrol ones as space in a premium in my keezer.

Do you have a fridge/freezer to store/serve them in? Cornies are super if you have some control over temperature. Again this depends on the style of beer you'll be serving.

 

[Breameister]

Corny kegs are a revelation. So much easier than leaky king kegs. Use jg fittings and 3/8" pipe. 19 litre limit so either adjust your brew or bottle balance. I have 3 and rotate.

 

[Godsdog]

Wouldn't be without mine,started off with JGs but changed over to all quick disconnects,but then I have more than cornies I have a bar too

 

[Fil]

google and the forum search should answer any Q's. just remember the kegs are only the storage aspect of a dispense system that relies on temp control and a regulated consistent co2 supply to feed beer through a beer line reducing pressure to anti-fob until released at the tap point.

 

[AlanManley]

I am debating taking the leap also... mini kegs at the moment but need something that is easier to package and lasts longer once started.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[Druncan]

I was 5l minikegs, now have a family of 14 x 25l cornies. Never looked back. I'm commercially brewing, so they work hard, and deliver. No pipes just taps direct to keg. Perfect. Best tip re sanitising = Learn't to use a chlorinating cleaner then good rinse and next starsan. (get a calibratable PH meter)

I am totally satisfied with my distribution system. However, my brewing leaves lots of 'Opportunities' to improve. Such is life,,,,,, ;oP
Good luck!

 

[Steve62]

Do you have a fridge/freezer to store/serve them in? Cornies are super if you have some control over temperature. Again this depends on the style of beer you'll be serving.

I picked up a fridge last week to convert to a brew fridge and have a tall larder fridge ready for storage, i'd only keep lager and ciders in fridge as I prefer ale at room temp

google and the forum search should answer any Q's. just remember the kegs are only the storage aspect of a dispense system that relies on temp control and a regulated consistent co2 supply to feed beer through a beer line reducing pressure to anti-fob until released at the tap point.

A pub size Co2 bottle isn't a problem to get, the corny I've seen also comes with a regulator, tap and pipes, I can feel my finger itching on the buy now button lol

 

[Steve62]

Wouldn't be without mine,started off with JGs but changed over to all quick disconnects,but then I have more than cornies I have a bar too

You have a bar too? i'm off to visit Walsall lol, I was born near you, whats the difference between john guests and quick disconnects?

 

[Godsdog]

You have a bar too? i'm off to visit Walsall lol, I was born near you, whats the difference between john guests and quick disconnects?

I started off JGs and an inline JG shut off valve so I could swap from keg to keg but for me found that first glass full the next day was always a bit on the tainted side so having a bar I decided to try those pet bottle carbonation caps which are the same version of the quick disconnect and screwed them into the back of the bar to run through the flash cooler and since then haven't had a tainting problem with the small amount of beer left in the lines overnight or even longer,can't give you a reason why as JGs are supposed to be airtight as well,but I like the way I am set up far much better now

 

[The Idiot]

Go for John Guest fittings; barbs are a pain and prone to weeping.

Okay, I found my old shopping list from when I first started. You'll need the following.
Kegs: As many as you can afford (and that won't be enough, trust me).
CO2 Bottle: You need one. I have three; one is in use, one spare and one for forced carbing.
CO Gas Regulator: One for each cylinder in use. These have a 3/8 inch screw outlet.
John Guest 3/8 inch Screw to 3/8 inch push-fit: One for each regulator. Part number is PI451213S
3/8 Inch Tubing: Work out your run lengths and add a bit for errors. A hint is to try and get different colours for gas in and beer out; it helps when you've got a whole bunch of kegs! You need to run from the CO2 cylinder to the keg gas in disconnect, and then from the beer out disconnect to the tap. A portion of the beer out run might need to be 3/16 tubing: more about that later.
Grey Gas In Disconnect: One for each keg. These have a 7/16 inch screw fitting.
Black Beer Out Disconnect: One for each keg. These have a 7/16 inch screw fitting.
John Guest 7/16 inch BSP to 3/8 inch push-fit: One for each disconnect. Part number is PI4512F4S. Note that this is actually a 1/4 inch FFL thread to 3/8 inch push-fit, but it is the right one!
Tap: One for each keg. You can either get a picnic/party tap (effectively a cheap plastic tap on a length of tube), a disconnect tap (a tap with integral disconnect, but expect plenty of foaming with one) or a decent tap that is mounted. If going for the latter, forward sealing taps are the best option.

OPTIONAL PARTS
3/8 inch to 3/16 inch Push-fit Reducer: Two required for each beer out line. You might not think you want these, but when you're looking at a glass of foam you'll realise you do! I added around 1.5 metres of 3/16 inch tubing in the middle of each beer out line. I simply coiled the tube up and used to tap to keep it neat. The reduced diameter slows the flow and prevents excessive foaming. Part number PI201206S.
3/16 inch tubing: See above; you'll need around 1.5 metres per keg.
Line Splitters: I run four kegs off a single CO2 bottle, using three two-way push-fit line splitters. Part number PI2312S. The alternative is a much more costly manifold.

The best way to buy the John Guest fittings is via plumbers or on-line suppliers. Buying in bags of 10 is best as individual parts from homebrew suppliers can be more costly. The surplus parts can either be sold or retained for when you inevitably buy more kegs.

Okay, you sanitise your keg, fill with beer, fit the lid and holding it in place give a burst of CO2 to seal. Then release the pressure and let it refill a few times. This purges any air and ensures there's only CO2 on the beer. You then have two choices. Either set the CO2 to 10psi and leave to carb for a few weeks or turn it to 30 psi for 5-7 days. If the latter route is taken, before you set it to 10psi for serving release all of the pressure. This stops the higher pressure in the keg pushing beer into the regulator, which will kill it off. You can fit non-return valves but just ensuring the pressure in the keg is lower than the bottle will prevent flowback!

Once carbonated, drink.

 

[Steve62]

Go for John Guest fittings; barbs are a pain and prone to weeping.

Okay, I found my old shopping list from when I first started. You'll need the following.
Kegs: As many as you can afford (and that won't be enough, trust me).
CO2 Bottle: You need one. I have three; one is in use, one spare and one for forced carbing.
CO Gas Regulator: One for each cylinder in use. These have a 3/8 inch screw outlet.
John Guest 3/8 inch Screw to 3/8 inch push-fit: One for each regulator. Part number is PI451213S
3/8 Inch Tubing: Work out your run lengths and add a bit for errors. A hint is to try and get different colours for gas in and beer out; it helps when you've got a whole bunch of kegs! You need to run from the CO2 cylinder to the keg gas in disconnect, and then from the beer out disconnect to the tap. A portion of the beer out run might need to be 3/16 tubing: more about that later.
Grey Gas In Disconnect: One for each keg. These have a 7/16 inch screw fitting.
Black Beer Out Disconnect: One for each keg. These have a 7/16 inch screw fitting.
John Guest 7/16 inch BSP to 3/8 inch push-fit: One for each disconnect. Part number is PI4512F4S. Note that this is actually a 1/4 inch FFL thread to 3/8 inch push-fit, but it is the right one!
Tap: One for each keg. You can either get a picnic/party tap (effectively a cheap plastic tap on a length of tube), a disconnect tap (a tap with integral disconnect, but expect plenty of foaming with one) or a decent tap that is mounted. If going for the latter, forward sealing taps are the best option.

OPTIONAL PARTS
3/8 inch to 3/16 inch Push-fit Reducer: Two required for each beer out line. You might not think you want these, but when you're looking at a glass of foam you'll realise you do! I added around 1.5 metres of 3/16 inch tubing in the middle of each beer out line. I simply coiled the tube up and used to tap to keep it neat. The reduced diameter slows the flow and prevents excessive foaming. Part number PI201206S.
3/16 inch tubing: See above; you'll need around 1.5 metres per keg.
Line Splitters: I run four kegs off a single CO2 bottle, using three two-way push-fit line splitters. Part number PI2312S. The alternative is a much more costly manifold.

The best way to buy the John Guest fittings is via plumbers or on-line suppliers. Buying in bags of 10 is best as individual parts from homebrew suppliers can be more costly. The surplus parts can either be sold or retained for when you inevitably buy more kegs.

Okay, you sanitise your keg, fill with beer, fit the lid and holding it in place give a burst of CO2 to seal. Then release the pressure and let it refill a few times. This purges any air and ensures there's only CO2 on the beer. You then have two choices. Either set the CO2 to 10psi and leave to carb for a few weeks or turn it to 30 psi for 5-7 days. If the latter route is taken, before you set it to 10psi for serving release all of the pressure. This stops the higher pressure in the keg pushing beer into the regulator, which will kill it off. You can fit non-return valves but just ensuring the pressure in the keg is lower than the bottle will prevent flowback!

Once carbonated, drink.

Thanks Buddy, that's a great post, I ordered the corny kit earlier today, no doubt i'll be getting many more

 

[MyQul]

Go for John Guest fittings; barbs are a pain and prone to weeping.

Okay, I found my old shopping list from when I first started. You'll need the following.
Kegs: As many as you can afford (and that won't be enough, trust me).
CO2 Bottle: You need one. I have three; one is in use, one spare and one for forced carbing.
CO Gas Regulator: One for each cylinder in use. These have a 3/8 inch screw outlet.
John Guest 3/8 inch Screw to 3/8 inch push-fit: One for each regulator. Part number is PI451213S
3/8 Inch Tubing: Work out your run lengths and add a bit for errors. A hint is to try and get different colours for gas in and beer out; it helps when you've got a whole bunch of kegs! You need to run from the CO2 cylinder to the keg gas in disconnect, and then from the beer out disconnect to the tap. A portion of the beer out run might need to be 3/16 tubing: more about that later.
Grey Gas In Disconnect: One for each keg. These have a 7/16 inch screw fitting.
Black Beer Out Disconnect: One for each keg. These have a 7/16 inch screw fitting.
John Guest 7/16 inch BSP to 3/8 inch push-fit: One for each disconnect. Part number is PI4512F4S. Note that this is actually a 1/4 inch FFL thread to 3/8 inch push-fit, but it is the right one!
Tap: One for each keg. You can either get a picnic/party tap (effectively a cheap plastic tap on a length of tube), a disconnect tap (a tap with integral disconnect, but expect plenty of foaming with one) or a decent tap that is mounted. If going for the latter, forward sealing taps are the best option.

OPTIONAL PARTS
3/8 inch to 3/16 inch Push-fit Reducer: Two required for each beer out line. You might not think you want these, but when you're looking at a glass of foam you'll realise you do! I added around 1.5 metres of 3/16 inch tubing in the middle of each beer out line. I simply coiled the tube up and used to tap to keep it neat. The reduced diameter slows the flow and prevents excessive foaming. Part number PI201206S.
3/16 inch tubing: See above; you'll need around 1.5 metres per keg.
Line Splitters: I run four kegs off a single CO2 bottle, using three two-way push-fit line splitters. Part number PI2312S. The alternative is a much more costly manifold.

The best way to buy the John Guest fittings is via plumbers or on-line suppliers. Buying in bags of 10 is best as individual parts from homebrew suppliers can be more costly. The surplus parts can either be sold or retained for when you inevitably buy more kegs.

Okay, you sanitise your keg, fill with beer, fit the lid and holding it in place give a burst of CO2 to seal. Then release the pressure and let it refill a few times. This purges any air and ensures there's only CO2 on the beer. You then have two choices. Either set the CO2 to 10psi and leave to carb for a few weeks or turn it to 30 psi for 5-7 days. If the latter route is taken, before you set it to 10psi for serving release all of the pressure. This stops the higher pressure in the keg pushing beer into the regulator, which will kill it off. You can fit non-return valves but just ensuring the pressure in the keg is lower than the bottle will prevent flowback!

Once carbonated, drink.

Great introduction/shopping list for corny kegs. I've copied it an put it the copy in the guides forum

 

[Litmus]

If you can nail down a local gas supplier, I would go for it.

I love mine, great beer, easy to store and move. No issues cleaning them.

I would say go for really long beer lines, 5m plus. That was the only issue I had at the start.

 

[Breameister]

Kegs are wonderful spoke to our local legion and They are going to ask the greene king rep if they have any beer pumps knocking about cheap.

 

[Steve62]

My keg arrived today, I was about to sanitise it then found out none of my spanners or sockets fit the posts Grrrrr, tried my local stockists and they don't have a 7/8 spanner or socket, so now waiting for them to come in the post, why didn't I think of this before

 

[Godsdog]

My keg arrived today, I was about to sanitise it then found out none of my spanners or sockets fit the posts Grrrrr, tried my local stockists and they don't have a 7/8 spanner or socket, so now waiting for them to come in the post, why didn't I think of this before

If new or refurbed why do you feel the need to take then apart? They should be good to go, mine were

 

[Steve62]

If new or refurbed why do you feel the need to take then apart? They should be good to go, mine were

You didn't sanitise all the bits before putting your brew in them? mine is referbed and looks sparkly clean but i'd still rather wait a couple more days than risk losing a brew

 

[Godsdog]

You didn't sanitise all the bits before putting your brew in them? mine is referbed and looks sparkly clean but i'd still rather wait a couple more days than risk losing a brew

I look at it like this,sanatisation will sanatise every bit of the keg the beer comes into contact with therefore there is no need to dismantle them when they arrive unless you buy second hand off a previous owner who has been using it,I have 3 and haven't had them apart for over 2 years, yes I have spares just In case but mine being ball lock QDs connections I just change the outer rubber around the in and out posts when they start looking a bit used
As stated earlier,fill with water and pressure test before filling with your first beer,it should easily hold 40 psi which is about the Max you can get it up to anyway using a pub CO2 bottle,far and away more than what you will be using with the beer in it

 

[Graz]

I prefer ale at room temp

I once thought that but when room temp is 20°C+ it's not great. Even ale should be served cool but not freezing cold like lager. A good "cellar temperature" is in the 10-12°C range and this can easily be managed with a keg fridge and a temperature controller like the Inkbird. I guess it becomes more difficult if you want to serve more than one style from your kegerator e.g. ale, cider and lager.

Personally as I only brew ale at the moment I'd be happy at one temperature and I'm currently on the hunt for a tall fridge but typically when I'm actually looking for one then eBay/Gumtree/etc. isn't coming up trumps.