Cooling prior to fermenting

[TomR]

I used to do all grain brews many years ago and would always leave the wort etc to cool with a lid on in the garage over night before adding yeast. I see lots of coil coolers what's the advantage of rapid Cooling?

 

[MyQul]

If you leave the wort to 'no-chill' you get chill haze in the beer when you put it in the fridge. You dont get this if you cool rapidly as the protiens causing chill haze drop out of the wort when using a chiller

 

[Pope]

I used to do all grain brews many years ago and would always leave the wort etc to cool with a lid on in the garage over night before adding yeast. I see lots of coil coolers what's the advantage of rapid Cooling?

Stating the obvious alert: You can get the wort down to fermentation temperature quicker. In my experience, just leaving it to cool naturally takes an age...even overnight a batch didn't drop down to fermentation temperature. It just seems more convenient.

 

[MyQul]

Stating the obvious alert: You can get the wort down to fermentation temperature quicker. In my experience, just leaving it to cool naturally takes an age...even overnight a batch didn't drop down to fermentation temperature. It just seems more convenient.

It will of course only drop to ambient temp. I sometimes star san some frozen 500ml water bottles and chuck them in the wort to get it down to pitching temp

 

[Cwrw666]

I like to start brewing at 9 am so I'm finished by 2 at the latest. Then I drain the hot wort into the FV, put the lid on and leave it to cool. Always ready to pitch by bed time, no problem.

 

[TomR]

So am I right in assuming a cooler is mainly about convenience?

 

[AdeDunn]

Not to mention that it reduces the time that the wort is within the "danger zone" for infection, the time when it's cool enough to get infected but too warm to pitch the yeast. No chill you have to keep the wort in a container where it's safe from infection before you pitch to offset this risk. Then there's the tighter control you have, with chilling the wort, of hop bitterness. There are lots of pros for rapidly cooling the wort, rather than just letting it cool on it's own.

 

[TomR]

I used to start the brew at teatime on a Friday night. Usually finishing finishing around 11ish. Leave it overnight in the fermenting bin and pitching the yeast the next morning...

 

[TomR]

Slightly different question.
I'm going to buy a klarstein all in one brewer. Are they straightforward to sterilise? Particularly the pipe that recirculates the wort?

 

[MyQul]

Slightly different question.
I'm going to buy a klarstein all in one brewer. Are they straightforward to sterilise? Particularly the pipe that recirculates the wort?

You dont need to sterilise them as the boiling wort 'self sterilises' it

 

[NIGHTSKY BREWING]

Cool ship..... BurningSky Brewery...

 

[TomR]

Really? Do the pipes not end up getting caked in old wort?
Wouldn't they then begin to grow mould etc?

 

[MyQul]

Really? Do the pipes not end up getting caked in old wort?
Wouldn't they then begin to grow mould etc?

It self sterilizes not self cleans. You'd have to clean it after brewing

 

[TomR]

I'm guessing there are instructions but is it easy to clean the pipes that remain attached the the mashtun / boiler?

 

[MyQul]

Tbh I dont know as I dont own one but I imagine so as you need to clean it after brewing and if you couldnt people wouldnt buy it. Have a look at some youtube vids as they may give you a better idea

 

[MyQul]

Heres a bit of bedtime reading https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/ace-microbrewery.68882/ Its for the ace, but as I understand it the ace/hopcat/klarstein/etc are all more or less the same

 

[AdeDunn]

I re-circulate, so similar to the all in one machines. Basically I clean the pump at the same time as the rest of my boiler, with hot water and sodium percarbonate. Hook all the pipework and pump up to the kettle and re-circulate the cleaning solution whilst soaking the kettle with it. Then do the same with the rinsing water, empty, repeat with more rinsing water a couple of times. Et-voila, pipes and pump are clean.

As MyQul says, no need to sanitise though, I just re-circulate for 15 minutes before the end of the boil (immersion chiller goes into the boiler at the same time for the same reason), my pump is rated up to 120 degrees C, so the boiling wort sanitises the pipework and tap all ready for transfer to the FV once I've cooled the wort to pitching temps. I should imagine it's similar for the all in one machines. Pump stays on whilst cooling too, and massively accelerates the effects of the immersion chiller as I connect the outlet to a special whirlpool port I fitted for the boil re-circ.

 

[TomR]

Cheers. Your advice is much appreciated. Now I just need to buy one

 

[Horse]

Australians use no-chill brewing as their standard technique and don't complain of chill haze (another myth?). They do it because water is expensive and scarce. You just need a temp resistant HDPE container (like a jerry can). Then store the wort batch and brew whenever you like. It's easy.

https://beerandbrewing.com/no-chill-brewing/

 

[MyQul]

Australians use no-chill brewing as their standard technique and don't complain of chill haze (another myth?). They do it because water is expensive and scarce. You just need a temp resistant HDPE container (like a jerry can). Then store the wort batch and brew whenever you like. It's easy.

https://beerandbrewing.com/no-chill-brewing/

Australians and forum mods (I've been no chilling since I started AG a few years ago)

Chill haze isnt a myth. It will happen if you dont chill the wort quickly to precipitate the cold break protiens out of the wort