Cold crashing, better in the primary or the pressure barrel

[Spud]

Quick questions:-

My geordie mild is half way through its brewing phase. I'm planning to cold crash it and eventually transfer it over to the king keg I'll be buying on Thursday. So I'd like to know a few finer points about the cold crashing.

About the cold crashing, would you leave it in the primary fv when cold crashing?
Or would you transfer it to the keg, prime it and stick it on chill for a week?
If crashing in the keg, would you gas it up with the s30 before or after cold crash?
Finally does cold crashing mean the maturation time starts as soon as cold crashing is complete?

 

[clibit]

Cold crash in the FV to settle out as much dead yeast etc as possible, so that you minimize the amount transferred to the barrel or bottles. The beer then needs a couple of weeks at room temperature to carbonate. Then it can be cooled to serving temp which will help further clear the beer.

 

[Spud]

Thanks mate, the fermenting fridge will make this easy, as I'll just switch the temp down once fermenting has finished. Then have lots of lovely mild ready for the end of May.

 

[jezbrews]

Cold crash in the FV to settle out as much dead yeast etc as possible, so that you minimize the amount transferred to the barrel or bottles. The beer then needs a couple of weeks at room temperature to carbonate. Then it can be cooled to serving temp which will help further clear the beer.

I know this post is well old, but how do you personally prevent oxygen ingress in an fv chilled and creating negative pressure?

 

[RoomWithABrew]

CO2 filled mylar or plastic balloon is one method if you don't have a closed pressure fermenter. Although bucket lids are rarely airtight.

 

[jezbrews]

CO2 filled mylar or plastic balloon is one method if you don't have a closed pressure fermenter. Although bucket lids are rarely airtight.

Sure, I'm aware this is an option, but I was asking to find out what clibit actually does do.

 

[MickDundee]

Sure, I'm aware this is an option, but I was asking to find out what clibit actually does do.

You’ve resurrected a post from nearly 8 years ago and quoted someone who hasn’t posted in over 6 years. I don’t think you’ll get an answer.

But cold crashing in the FV is normal practice and I believe it is unlikely to cause oxidation issues at a home brew level. I’ve certainly not had any issues when I’ve used my “normal” fermenter. Most brews I use my Fermzilla which is already pressured to about 10PSI when I start the cold crash.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

If I’m kegging I cold crash in the primary fermenter, if I’m bottling then I cold crash in the secondary/bottling bucket. Three days for either does the trick.

 

[jezbrews]

You’ve resurrected a post from nearly 8 years ago and quoted someone who hasn’t posted in over 6 years. I don’t think you’ll get an answer.

But cold crashing in the FV is normal practice and I believe it is unlikely to cause oxidation issues at a home brew level. I’ve certainly not had any issues when I’ve used my “normal” fermenter. Most brews I use my Fermzilla which is already pressured to about 10PSI when I start the cold crash.

Fair point on them not responding... didn't see that!

I was planning on transferring to a pressure barrel, topping up with co2 then dropping the temp. Ideally I'd like to use the co2 from the fermentation process to fill it but that seems unlikely.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

Don’t package cloudy beer unless that’s the style. You will not know whether it will clear. For a pressure keg cold crash in the primary and when clear transfer.