Buying a fridge to house keg/fermenter

[BrannBrew]

I've been going back and forth in my mind to get a fridge large enough to hold 2 kegs and or my SS brewtech brewmaster bucket. I then was thinking just getting the FTSS for the fermenter then changing my mind again.
I currently just use either a large open coolbox or coolbrewing jacket rotating frozen water bottles or ice blocks stuffed done a neoprene jacket around a keg.

I've tried and scanned on facebook marketplace, ebay and gumtree for old fridges however the size I was after they wernt much cheaper than a new one and also I would have to try to collect myself - not ideal really.

As the fridge will be in my garage I needed one that could cope with the colder winters in my garage. A beko (lsg1545w) I found was 145cm high - 54 wide and 58 deep. Which if I measured it right can hold 2 kegs side by side (or one above each other) or the fermenter and keg above that.
Aiming to use wood for shelving to give abit more support than the glass shelves. Using my inkbird to control the temps, I already have a tube heater if needed.

As its a new fridge and I have 2 perlick flow control taps I dont intend to hole out the front of the fridge just yet to put the taps on the outside. I am quite content to just open the fridge to pour a brew.
There still should be some space to put other beers or drinks in the space around.

Wondered what other peoples setups are? Or have just upgraded from the kind of setup I currently have? Does my idea appear sound?

 

[Horners]

I'm no expert but one word of caution on dimensions - the stated dimensions don't take into account the space taken up where compressor goes so for example the fridge I bought let's say for illustrative purposes is 100cm high and my FV is 70 cm - it only just fits because it can't sit on the base of the fridge because working parts behind salad tray are in the way

 

[GhostShip]

Didn't want to start a new thread but it's amazing how the little things in life get you excited!

Saw a fridge on ebay last night which was only a 15/20 minute drive from me. Full working order and no freezer box to worry about. Put a bid in this morning expecting there to be a higher reserve price and managed to buy it for £12.50!

So, I now have a summer project - to get a brew fridge ready for the autumn. Will look at heaters and inkbird controllers and hunt for advice on here. Hoping to keep it in the shed and only bring it in to the house (there's no power in the shed) when it's needed for brewing. Haven't told the wife yet but I'll cross that bridge tonight!

 

[BrannBrew]

Didn't want to start a new thread but it's amazing how the little things in life get you excited!

Saw a fridge on ebay last night which was only a 15/20 minute drive from me. Full working order and no freezer box to worry about. Put a bid in this morning expecting there to be a higher reserve price and managed to buy it for £12.50!

So, I now have a summer project - to get a brew fridge ready for the autumn. Will look at heaters and inkbird controllers and hunt for advice on here. Hoping to keep it in the shed and only bring it in to the house (there's no power in the shed) when it's needed for brewing. Haven't told the wife yet but I'll cross that bridge tonight!

Ive certainly noticed the difference using one, as I bought new I fed my inkbird temprature probe and gas line (from the co2 canasiter) through the fridges door seals, as I didnt want to start carving into the fridge. I also have two perlick 650S so I didnt see the point in putting a whole into the fridge for taps on the outside.
There is no way I could of coped keeping kegs chilled with frozen bottles these last few weeks.

 

[GhostShip]

Fridge all cleaned up and looks great! Now I need to get on with turning it into a brew fridge.

I'd like to keep all of the wiring inside a box - mainly for safety reasons. This will house the body of the ITC-1000 and the two plug sockets (one for hot, one for cold), as well as all of the wires and blocks etc. Does anyone have any ideas for what I might use for this box? I wondered about a plastic tupperware/sandwich box type thing, but maybe that's not such a great idea if things get hot for some reason.

Whatever it is, I'll need to be able to cut holes in it for the Inkbird and the two sockets.

Has anyone on here made one themselves?

 

[Clint]

Have you bought your controller yet? If not use the saving off the fridge to buy an inkbird...no build required..just plug it in and dial in your temp. Dead easy. I've got three...

 

[GhostShip]

Have you bought your controller yet? If not use the saving off the fridge to buy an inkbird...no build required..just plug it in and dial in your temp. Dead easy. I've got three...

I haven't yet. Planning to get the ITC-1000 - I just thought it would be neater (and safer) if I housed all of the wiring inside some sort of enclosure. The two plug sockets (hold and cold) could also be incorporated.

 

[Clint]

The inkbird comes with hot and cold sockets and temp probe. All you do is set the temp.

 

[-Bezza-]

Agree with what Clint says. An Inkbird itc-308 will do everything you need it to and no need to mess around with wiring.

 

[Graz]

I made my first one with a ITC-1000, got a large project box to put it in along with the sockets etc.. The box was the one of the more expensive items. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Project-...hash=item1ec516557a:m:m9IloaUc_7ExjCDw3k5SXOw

Second fridge uses an Inkbird. Wouldn't bother making one with an ITC-1000 again.

 

[GhostShip]

And that's exactly why I post on here! An hour ago, I was going to buy an ITC-1000 and now I'm buying an ITC-308.

By the time I bought the ITC-1000, enclosure box, two sockets and some cable, it would probably have cost the same as the 308 anyway - and now I don't have to do any wiring (which I'm not particulary confident with anyway)!

Thank you all for your help - I'll let you know how it's going once I have everything up and running.

 

[GhostShip]

Sorry guys - just one more question. For the tube heater, do you think 45W will be enough, or should I get a 60W heater?

 

[Clint]

I got a 45 for an under counter size fridge. Even in the winter in my garage it doesn't switch on very much as the thermal mass of the brew anf fridge insulation keeps things quite stable. Plus you will gain a degree or two as fermentation gets going.

 

[GhostShip]

I got a 45 for an under counter size fridge. Even in the winter in my garage it doesn't switch on very much as the thermal mass of the brew anf fridge insulation keeps things quite stable. Plus you will gain a degree or two as fermentation gets going.

Thank you! 45W it is.

 

[110ben]

Just to add my twopenneth I have two 45 watt heaters in mine as i live in the middle of Scotland and the fridge is in a wooden shed. One wasn't enough for minus 3 degrees and colder. If you are brewing in the house 1 will defo be enough. Don't forget you can probably feed the temp probe and heater cable through the condensation drain hole at the back of the fridge. The other thing i did was to paint the front of the fridge with blackboard paint which is great for making temp notes. Enjoy using it.

 

[GhostShip]

Sorry, more questions!

I need to make a shelf to sit at the bottom of the fridge to hold the FV. The tube heater will sit underneath that.

I was thinking of using MDF, but then thought it should probably be painted because of the particles. But then I'd need a paint that would tolerate very low temperatures (when cold conditioning).

Would I be better using plywood? Would you bother painting it at all?

Thanks for any help/suggestions.

 

[Horners]

I just used a bit of decking board I had lying round - cut to size. Basically front bit of FV sits on board, back bit sits on the plastic that houses the workings

 

[-Bezza-]

Sorry, more questions!

I need to make a shelf to sit at the bottom of the fridge to hold the FV. The tube heater will sit underneath that.

I was thinking of using MDF, but then thought it should probably be painted because of the particles. But then I'd need a paint that would tolerate very low temperatures (when cold conditioning).

Would I be better using plywood? Would you bother painting it at all?

Thanks for any help/suggestions.

I've used ply (because I had it to hand rather than specifically wanting to use ply) and not treated it at all. I wouldn't worry too much - the amount of time it will take for your wood to rot will be pretty long in a fridge.

What's your concern with "particles" in the MDF?

 

[GhostShip]

I've used ply (because I had it to hand rather than specifically wanting to use ply) and not treated it at all. I wouldn't worry too much - the amount of time it will take for your wood to rot will be pretty long in a fridge.

What's your concern with "particles" in the MDF?

I know that when cutting MDF, it gives off lots of little fibrous particles. Maybe that's only when it's being cut, but I didn't fancy any of those particles floating around in the fridge, which is why I thought of painting it.

However, thinking about it, painting the board is probably a bad idea. Fresh paint in a confined area could easily create a strong odour that could affect the beer.

I'll see if I can find any old wood knocking about!

 

[-Bezza-]

I know that when cutting MDF, it gives off lots of little fibrous particles. Maybe that's only when it's being cut, but I didn't fancy any of those particles floating around in the fridge, which is why I thought of painting it.

However, thinking about it, painting the board is probably a bad idea. Fresh paint in a confined area could easily create a strong odour that could affect the beer.

I'll see if I can find any old wood knocking about!

I don't think that will be an issue as MDF doesn't give off fibres unless it's being cut or sanded. You could hoover the dust off the wood after cutting if you were worried. Or wrap the whole thing in clingfilm!