Brewing "Timmy Taylor Landlord"

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

I think chilling it now, apart from the increased infection risk by sticking an immersion chiller in the FV is you can stress the yeast. Leave it another 12 hours or so

Looks like it's currently sitting at about 23-24ºC -- I could wrap some plastic tubing around the outside of the bin, I suppose...

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Also, if you recall you made a starter, which is not advised by some leading experts as it can deplete the cell reserves, so that could have made it slower to get going

Yeah - I get it...

 

[foxy]

Not having a go but fermenting at ambient temperature is definitely not on. Get yourself an old fridge, looking at your set up you are doing everything right, as a new comer to all grain I would give you a 10 out of 10 for your approach, but the fermentation is just as or more important as any other step.

 

[terrym]

Jeez gimme a break - it's only my second brew :-) The first one, where I just sprinkled the SO4 on the top, went off like a rocket and had fallen halfway to the FG after the first 24h. OK perhaps this is more like 'normal' then.
Thanks for the advice!

In my experience every brew is slightly different even if you are using the 'same' yeast. There are all sorts of factors that come into play, including temperature, the wort itself, yeast age, yeast type, quantity of yeast, any pre-pitching preparation, pitching type etc etc. In broad terms the first few hours of the fermentation are carried out aerobiocally when the yeast builds up its numbers. Then when the dissolved oxygen has gone or nearly gone the anaerobic fermentation process kicks in (and at that point any oxygen addition to the beer is detrimental). So all this means that some fermentations will be underway after as little as 6 hours others may take 24. I have even read on here of people reporting as long as 48 hours. So leave it alone for at least 24 hours before you may need to check it. Nil airlock activity (although airlocks cannot be relied upon), no sign whatsoever of a krausen forming, and a really clear wort may be reasons for intervening. But otherwise leave the SG readings for a few days. Some people just take an OG and an FG and thats that. Finally be aware that the more you fiddle with your brew, the more likely you are to introduce nasties, however small that risk may actually be.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Thanks for all the helpful advice guys. Having now flooded the headspace with CO2 and put a lid/airlock on, I can see that it is slowly producing gas... so the yeast is growing. Phew.

Update: did I say it was bubbling slowly? it's just blown the water out of the airlock...

 

[Mavroz]

Wow, for a 2nd brew, there are plenty of gadgets, gizmos and processes here, too many for me.
The most complicated bit of kit I have is a fridge, heater controlled with an Inkbird controller.
I have a few buckets, a pot that just fits on the cooker top, a couple of mesh bags for grain and hops, few lengths of tubing and a syphon plus kitchen sink for cooling the wort in the pot and that is it.
The FV goes in the fridge for 10 days at 19 degrees, whether there is any airlock activity or not. It has a further 4 days at around 4 degrees.
It is then transferred from the FV to a bottling bucket where a solution of Dex Sugar is added to carbonate... Amount depends on whether being bottled or bagged for the handpull.
That is it pretty much, no cooling or warming coils, no tubing around buckets, no Co2 flushing, no gadgets or gizmos, a plastic jug to rinse grain through though is necessary for me .... Nearly 50 brews (AG and Partial Mash) giving fantastic results.
Everyone has their own views, ways and most think their way is better than anyone elses. That's the way it is but it is each to their own and my way is least complicated, least fuss and least gadgets give me what I want.

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Wow, for a 2nd brew, there are plenty of gadgets, gizmos and processes here, too many for me.
The most complicated bit of kit I have is a fridge, heater controlled with an Inkbird controller.
I have a few buckets, a pot that just fits on the cooker top, a couple of mesh bags for grain and hops, few lengths of tubing and a syphon plus kitchen sink for cooling the wort in the pot and that is it.
The FV goes in the fridge for 10 days at 19 degrees, whether there is any airlock activity or not. It has a further 4 days at around 4 degrees.
It is then transferred from the FV to a bottling bucket where a solution of Dex Sugar is added to carbonate... Amount depends on whether being bottled or bagged for the handpull.
That is it pretty much, no cooling or warming coils, no tubing around buckets, no Co2 flushing, no gadgets or gizmos, a plastic jug to rinse grain through though is necessary for me .... Nearly 50 brews (AG and Partial Mash) giving fantastic results.
Everyone has their own views, ways and most think their way is better than anyone elses. That's the way it is but it is each to their own and my way is least complicated, least fuss and least gadgets give me what I want.

"Wow, for a 2nd brew, there are plenty of gadgets, gizmos and processes here, too many for me." heh... are you meant to, like, build up to them then? (only pulling your leg...) Sounds like I need to get a fridge then ;-)

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Did you treat your water? seem to remember reading that Landlord has a high chloride rate instead of a higher sulphate that your would expect in this style of beer. Another beer where to me the yeast is crucial Wyeast 1496 would have been my choice.

Did you mean the Wyeast 1469 (West Yorks) mate? Just looking for it now, can't find a '1496' ??

 

[Michael Burnley]

Yes, it is Wyeast 1469

Whilst you have no accurate way of controlling fermentation temps, have a look at Kveik yeast, it is supposed to be very forgiving of temperature fluctuations, CrossMyLoof sell it on eBay.

 

[Mavroz]

"Wow, for a 2nd brew, there are plenty of gadgets, gizmos and processes here, too many for me." heh... are you meant to, like, build up to them then? (only pulling your leg...) Sounds like I need to get a fridge then ;-)

A fridge, heater and controller I would say are the only real necessities for fermenting and making a decent brew, along with a sink for cooling and a hydrometer..... (Good sanitation and cleaning are a 100% must also) All other gadgets, gizmos, tech equipment really is not necessary. Well it is not needed by myself. Basics are more than enough. Other than dispense equipment, I use exactly the same equipment as when u made my first ag brews.
BUT as I said, each to their own and their own oreferences, what works for us, works for us.

 

[trueblue]

Did you mean the Wyeast 1469 (West Yorks) mate? Just looking for it now, can't find a '1496' ??

Yes think I had had a drink when wrote that

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Yes think I had had a drink when wrote that

Ordered some in; might split the next batch 50/50 and pitch one with that and the other with SO4 to compare...

 

[The-Engineer-That-Brews]

Yes, it is Wyeast 1469

Whilst you have no accurate way of controlling fermentation temps, have a look at Kveik yeast, it is supposed to be very forgiving of temperature fluctuations, CrossMyLoof sell it on eBay.

Ta. Interestingly the first brew I did was back at the end of July, when ambient temps were also pretty high: that was with SO4, and it turned out a treat... perfectly clear, dry as a bone and great flavour. Fermentation took 48 hrs start to finish LoL
Perhaps that was just beginners' luck; or maybe the style of beer suited the conditions (OG was only 1037).