Brew monk eu to uk adapter?

[kelper]

Just buy from a reputable supplier. Items like plugs are self-certified - there is no third-party testing. Get a branded plug, not Chinese one. It's amazing how many plugs I have that are marked CE or BS that do not comply with the regs. I have a credit-card sized template that checks if the pins are the right size and if the top is large enough to keep fingers away from live parts.

If it's rated at 13A that's it. The rating is not limited to one hour! At 13A the fuse will get hot but it will have reached its max temperature within the hour.

 

[Gerryjo]

Is a standard rated 13amp plug ok or do I need a more specialised heat resistant plug?

A standard plug is fine though you can get a rubber one that gives better insulation but if you can wire a plug DIY ensuring the cord grip goes over the outer sheath and the cables are connected properly. YouTube it if you're not sure.

 

[Johnsbrewery]

Is there an earth wire in the two pin plug before I chop it? I am a heating engineer so I can do basic electrical work. Thanks for all the advice!

 

[kelper]

Look on the rating plate of your Brew Monk and see if it's 'double insulated' if it is it will bear this mark and not have an earth conductor.

 

[Satellitemark]

The metal part going up the side of the round Euro plug is the earth, however that doesn't always mean that it has a wire connected.

I suppose the only way to find out is to cut it off !
The wire colours should be the standard
Green/yellow earth if present
Blue neutral
Brown live

I have done this job both directions UK to EU and EU to UK it literally is just wiring a plug , just make sure you cut every thing to the correct length and fasten securely , with no bare strands exposed there is lot of videos on YouTube and how to's on the net.

 

[Johnsbrewery]

Really appreciate all your help guys!!

 

[kelper]

And, if there is an earth conductor this should be longer than the live and neutral conductors so that if the cord grip fails, the live wire and/or neutral would be pulled out first.

 

[Satellitemark]

 

[kelper]

How long is the mains lead? For little extra effort, you could fit a longer cable AND a UK plug.

 

[Johnsbrewery]

It’s about a meter and half. But I think I’ll just stick a new plug on it and probably not run it over 2600 watts. That way it shouldn’t overheat or go up in flames lol

 

[kelper]

My all-in-one does draw ~16A on full power and I use a 13A plug extension with three Schuko sockets. The extension is less than 12 inches. But I brew outdoors and don't leave it unattended. I fill the 'boiler' with domestic hot water so it does not take long to reach strike temperature.

 

[Gerryjo]

Is there an earth wire in the two pin plug before I chop it? I am a heating engineer so I can do basic electrical work. Thanks for all the advice!

There will be as it has to meet CE standards for non insulated items come into contact with the user ie kettles, driers boilers etc where there is a risk to electric shock, with hairdryers, hifis and such these are mostly contained in plastic housings therefore reducing the risk.

 

[Gerryjo]

My all-in-one does draw ~16A on full power and I use a 13A plug extension with three Schuko sockets. The extension is less than 12 inches. But I brew outdoors and don't leave it unattended. I fill the 'boiler' with domestic hot water so it does not take long to reach strike temperature.

Right away your reducing heating time by adding the hot water and you could also reduce the power output by using a variable voltage controller.

 

[Gerryjo]

My all-in-one does draw ~16A on full power and I use a 13A plug extension with three Schuko sockets. The extension is less than 12 inches. But I brew outdoors and don't leave it unattended. I fill the 'boiler' with domestic hot water so it does not take long to reach strike temperature.

Just noticed but why three Schuko sockets though I will assume it's the type of lead and you are only using one of them?

 

[kelper]

There will be as it has to meet CE standards for non insulated items come into contact with the user ie kettles, driers boilers etc where there is a risk to electric shock, with hairdryers, hifis and such these are mostly contained in plastic housings therefore reducing the risk.

I agree that an earth lead is required to meet CE requirements. BUT there are many products imported to the UK which bear the CE Mark or something similar. It is the importer's responsibility to document compliance. But lots of goods imported do not actually comply. Phone chargers are a common example.

 

[Gerryjo]

I agree that an earth lead is required to meet CE requirements. BUT there are many products imported to the UK which bear the CE Mark or something similar. It is the importer's responsibility to document compliance. But lots of goods imported do not actually comply. Phone chargers are a common example.

Again phone chargers don't need them as they are an insulated appliance unless it has a metal housing.
Try reading through 17th edition BS 7671 and you'll have your head fried as I had to do it about 4 years ago and will have to do the 18th sometime soon but it will give you all the details you need but it is exhausting but must be adhered to for UK electrical regs.

 

[kelper]

Just noticed but why three Schuko sockets though I will assume it's the type of lead and you are only using one of them?

Yes, I'm only using one and I have monitored it with a FLIR infrared camera. It was the UK plug that got hot not the Schuko plug and socket.
Your advice is sound but I don't think it is wrong to use a 13A adaptor if it meets CE standards. I have a 45L all-in-one EU spec and a sparge heater but I don't run them simultaneously! I normally use an SSR to 'drop' the voltage as my supply is 247V!

 

[Gerryjo]

Yes, I'm only using one and I have monitored it with a FLIR infra-red camera. It was the UK plug that got hot not the Schuko plug and socket.
Your advice is sound but I sound think it is wrong to use a 13A adaptor if it meets CE standards. I have a 45L all-in-one EU spec and a sparge heater but I don't run them simultaneously! I normally use an SSR to 'drop' the voltage as my supply is 247V!

The UK plug which is plugged into the wall outlet is the one drawing from source and that's why it gets so hot and eventually you'll notice the wall socket going brown due to overheating because of the load applied.

 

[kelper]

The UK plug which is plugged into the wall outlet is the one drawing from source and that's why it gets so hot and eventually you'll notice the wall socket going brown due to overheating because of the load applied.

No. It gets hot because its fuse gets hot. Why should the plug in the wall socket get any hotter than a downstream plug drawing exactly the same current?

I'm a retired ship's chief engineer and have had to study hundreds of regulations so I'll pass on your suggestion to peruse the 18th thankyou!

The plug gets very hot but the wall socket didn't.