Brew fridge electrical help.

[TheOsprey]

So having made my brew fridge, which fits my 25l FV in easily, I bought a couple more FVs from GEB, but failed to notice that these are 33l, and discovered, when my FV was full of beer, that these don't actually fit in my fridge.

They only don't fit because of the temperature wheel and light box:



So I guess my options are:
1) get another fridge
2) get smaller FVs

Or secret option 3, remove the light box. My question therefore is (for people with electrical nous) what am I likely to find inside? Is this removable? Movable? Liable to kill me?

Basically, are options 1 and 2 safer and easier?

Cheers

O

 

[BeerCat]

The thermostat is in there if you want to bypass it. Its an easy job but i wouldn't try to move it. Is it a small fridge? Mine easily fit 2 33l fv's or a 60l and 33l.

 

[Gerryjo]

Odviously you're restricted by width and height with 33l FV.Your switch and thermostat willbe channeled through the insulation which means you should theoretically be able to move it backward to clear the circumference of your fermenter.
1-Place your fermentor in until it touches the switch then measure the clearance between the back of the fridge and the fermenter.
2-Now measure from the back of the fridge to the back of the switch as this will give you the distance you need for clearance.
3-Power down the fridge and remove the screws in the switch housing as this may let you turn it vertically giving you the space required as it should not be much.
4-Failing that you may be able to groove a small channel toward the back to allow the power cable and thermostat to recess and fit your fermenter.

 

[chillipickle]

It is a simple job to bypass the thermostat.I bypassed and removed the housing on both my fridges, i had no need for the light inside.

 

[TheOsprey]

Thanks all for your input.

Is it a small fridge?

Yeah it's an under counter one. It was fine with my old FV so I just didn't think about it. I'm keeping an eye out for a larger one, but I assume fridge freezers are out, as I can't independently control them both?

this may let you turn it vertically giving you the space required as it should not be much.

Ooh, I like this plan.

It is a simple job to bypass the thermostat.I bypassed and removed the housing on both my fridges

Hmm looks more complicated than my level of expertise, but I'm looking into it!

Cheers

 

[BeerCat]

Homebrew Chris has a video on doing the thermostat. Its a matter of connecting 2 wires.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

Converted my fridge into a brew fridge this afternoon. Extension cable went through drain hole. Is there any issues with having the multi-gang sockets inside the fridge?

 

[UKSkydiver]

Out of interest, are you powering just one 'thing' i.e. the tube heater? Is there any need for a multi socket in there? (PC fans?)

My tube heater didn't come with a plug, so I threaded it out, rather than an extension in.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

Didn't want to cut the plug off the heater. Don't need 3 gang but it was spare and plug removable. If there's a problem with condensation I'll put it in a sealed bag.

 

[GhostShip]

View attachment 34482Converted my fridge into a brew fridge this afternoon. Extension cable went through drain hole. Is there any issues with having the multi-gang sockets inside the fridge?

I guess that depends if you're going to use it to cold crash? If you are, there will be moisture within the fridge and personally I wouldn't have a socket inside under those circumstances. I'm also not sure why you would need a socket inside the fridge - I have a cable going out from the tube heater and a cable from the Inkbird probe - both fit through the drain hole and the socket is then outside the fridge.

You might also consider drilling a few holes in your 'shelf' to allow the warm air from the heater to rise up to the FV.

 

[Benfleet Brewery]

I guess that depends if you're going to use it to cold crash? If you are, there will be moisture within the fridge and personally I wouldn't have a socket inside under those circumstances. I'm also not sure why you would need a socket inside the fridge - I have a cable going out from the tube heater and a cable from the Inkbird probe - both fit through the drain hole and the socket is then outside the fridge.

You might also consider drilling a few holes in your 'shelf' to allow the warm air from the heater to rise up to the FV.

Yes, personally I would cut the plug off the tube heater, run that cable through the drain hole and attach the plug again. If that plug isn’t reusable then use the one off the multi gang.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

I guess that depends if you're going to use it to cold crash? If you are, there will be moisture within the fridge and personally I wouldn't have a socket inside under those circumstances. I'm also not sure why you would need a socket inside the fridge - I have a cable going out from the tube heater and a cable from the Inkbird probe - both fit through the drain hole and the socket is then outside the fridge.

You might also consider drilling a few holes in your 'shelf' to allow the warm air from the heater to rise up to the FV.

Thanks

 

[BeerCat]

View attachment 34482Converted my fridge into a brew fridge this afternoon. Extension cable went through drain hole. Is there any issues with having the multi-gang sockets inside the fridge?

Yes, condensation can build up when crashing and drip. I would extend the cable or at least cover it with a bag.

 

[Gerryjo]

Your extension lead is a nono inside the fridge unless you want electrocuted, as the above posts have mentioned cut the plug and run through the drain hole with the socket outside.

 

[Cheshire Cat]

Will change it tomorrow bought a plug. Thanks all as my wife had same concern.