Bottling too cold??

[eyuptm]

I think I might've dropped a b*block, I crash cooled my last brew (Festival Golden Stag) because I could, in my new brewfridge!! Then I racked into a bottling bucket with the priming sugar, then bottled.
It was only when I had capped them and was moving them to the airing cupboard when I realized that they were still freezing cold... D'OH!!
I haven't put them in the warm yet, though I'd leave them in a "middling" temperature, to warm up a bit.
Have I done a ****ie? Shall I open then and re-cap when the temperature has risen, or will they be ok?
Thanks in advance.

 

[The Baron]

should be fine the yeast will munch the sugar once it warms back up

 

[chrisb8]

I always bottle mine cold straight from a cold crash with no problems at all. I would leave them alone and just let them come to room temperature naturally.

 

[Mavroz]

I doubt there will be an issue.
I cold crashed my last few brews for about 36 hours down to around 6 degrees, purely for extra clarity when conditioned, not sure it produces better results than ambient temp bottling.
When bottled they are heavily condensated on the outside of the bottles. They then go in an area at pretty much ambient temperature, maybe around 16 degrees. Never had an issue with my brew fridge brews up to now doing this.

 

[Davvy]

They will be fine...
The yeast in your brew will start working as it comes up to your normal primary fermentation temperature. Just leave the bottles for the correct time at that temperature (I use 18-20 deg Celcius mainly) and all will be as nature intended !

 

[An Ankoù]

should be fine the yeast will munch the sugar once it warms back up

Baron's spot on. You've done everything as it should be done. The cold crash is to help precipitate hop and yeast crud and coagulate proteins. Having left that lot behind, let your bottles warm up and allow them to condition at a temperature appropriate to the style. Of course, a lot of the yeast drops out as well so it might take a bit longer to carbonate, but the payoff is worth it. Allow AT LEAST six weeks and no problem if it takes longer.
What's a boblock, by the way? I'd steer well clear of carbonation drops. :p

 

[foxy]

I bottle mine straight from the fridge into the bottles via bottling bucket, the only problem supposedly is the dissolved co2 in the beer, I haven' encountered it as yet but I use a little less sugar just in case.
On the other side if you let the beer start to warm up from a cold crash then everything that has dropped out will come back into suspension.

 

[eyuptm]

Thanks all- no bottle bombs yet, so all good!!

 

[eyuptm]

Still intact, now at 17°, so hopefully got away with it!! Thanks all.

 

[ExpatBrewer]

I bottle mine straight from the fridge into the bottles via bottling bucket, the only problem supposedly is the dissolved co2 in the beer, I haven' encountered it as yet but I use a little less sugar just in case.

There's always dissolved CO2 in the beer post fermentation, the quantity of which depends largely on the fermentation temperature. Most priming calculators take into account the dissolved CO2 already in the beer. Where it get's a little uncertain is when a beer is cold-crashed. It's not clear but CO2 levels may increase slightly as CO2 is absorbed back into the beer however, this may only apply to a sealed system and when the cold-crash is for longer periods. I suspect a few days CC won't make much difference to the level of dissolved C02 in the beer, particularly if it's not an air-tight situation.

On the other side if you let the beer start to warm up from a cold crash then everything that has dropped out will come back into suspension.

I don't think this is entirely true. If undisturbed the yeast shouldn't "un-flocculate" as it warms up nor do I think other particles would suddenly become bouyant again once they have already settled.

 

[foxy]

There's always dissolved CO2 in the beer post fermentation, the quantity of which depends largely on the fermentation temperature. Most priming calculators take into account the dissolved CO2 already in the beer. Where it get's a little uncertain is when a beer is cold-crashed. It's not clear but CO2 levels may increase slightly as CO2 is absorbed back into the beer however, this may only apply to a sealed system and when the cold-crash is for longer periods. I suspect a few days CC won't make much difference to the level of dissolved C02 in the beer, particularly if it's not an air-tight situation.

I don't think this is entirely true. If undisturbed the yeast shouldn't "un-flocculate" as it warms up nor do I think other particles would suddenly become bouyant again once they have already settled.

I don't think it is within the scope of a home brewer to be able to measure how much co2 has dissolved back into the beer, Brewers Friend try to guesstimate it in their priming calculations but they say their is no real way of calculating it. I drop mine to minus 1 or 2 degrees depending on the strength of the beer, have primed using the calculator and stating the temperature is 18 C and never been over carbed.

As for yeast waking up from a cold crash, try it and see. I did unintentionally when a fridge I was cold crashing in carked it. Still had a yeast bed in the cone but the yest which dropped out during the cold crash was back looking for food.

 

[ExpatBrewer]

I don't think it is within the scope of a home brewer to be able to measure how much co2 has dissolved back into the beer, Brewers Friend try to guesstimate it in their priming calculations but they say their is no real way of calculating it. I drop mine to minus 1 or 2 degrees depending on the strength of the beer, have primed using the calculator and stating the temperature is 18 C and never been over carbed.

I work with Beersmith which essentially calculates dissolved CO2 and priming in the same way. Usually works out well enough.

As for yeast waking up from a cold crash, try it and see. I did unintentionally when a fridge I was cold crashing in carked it. Still had a yeast bed in the cone but the yest which dropped out during the cold crash was back looking for food.

Yeah, I'm certainly no expert on this particular topic but I did think if there was no food then there's surely no activity. One thing I had read somewhere was the yeast can sometimes get disturbed as CO2 comes back out of solution - like little geysers of gas coming out of the cake as the beer warms up. But I suspect this effect may vary from strain to strain. The high-flocc yeasts I often use seem to form an extremely firm and compressed cake which seems to stay put no matter what but I can imagine the likes of US-05 which I always found to be quite 'floaty' and very easily disturbed could be more of a problem.

 

[foxy]

I work with Beersmith which essentially calculates dissolved CO2 and priming in the same way. Usually works out well enough.

Yeah, I'm certainly no expert on this particular topic but I did think if there was no food then there's surely no activity. One thing I had read somewhere was the yeast can sometimes get disturbed as CO2 comes back out of solution - like little geysers of gas coming out of the cake as the beer warms up. But I suspect this effect may vary from strain to strain. The high-flocc yeasts I often use seem to form an extremely firm and compressed cake which seems to stay put no matter what but I can imagine the likes of US-05 which I always found to be quite 'floaty' and very easily disturbed could be more of a problem.

Yes does depend on the type of yeast, I have used Crossmyloof Real Ale yeast, looks like it has stopped fermenting accidentally nudge it and off it goes again. The best flocculating yeast I have tried is CN-36 you need a stick to break it away from the bottom of the fermenter.

 

[ExpatBrewer]

The best flocculating yeast I have tried is CN-36 you need a stick to break it away from the bottom of the fermenter.

I can't get that strain in this part of the world but it does sound a lot like Mangrove Jacks M36 "Liberty Bell" which I use often. It too forms a cake which closely resembles a thick sticky clay.

 

[foxy]

I can't get that strain in this part of the world but it does sound a lot like Mangrove Jacks M36 "Liberty Bell" which I use often. It too forms a cake which closely resembles a thick sticky clay.

Try this guy he is the International sales rep, just tell him you have heard good reports and either ask for a sample or buy a 100 gram. You won't be disappointed. Ask for the CN-36.
[email protected]

 

[ExpatBrewer]

Try this guy he is the International sales rep, just tell him you have heard good reports and either ask for a sample or buy a 100 gram. You won't be disappointed. Ask for the CN-36.
[email protected]

Cheers. I just read through the spec sheet... it sounds a LOT like Nottingham!

 

[foxy]

I will post up a Performance Analysis and Comparison between US-05 and CN-36 as soon as I get a PDF.

 

[ExpatBrewer]

I will post up a Performance Analysis and Comparison between US-05 and CN-36 as soon as I get a PDF.

It was actually US-05 I discarded in favour of Nottingham. I wonder if you did the same with Cn36?

 

[foxy]

No my favourite was SO-4, never was that interested in 05 for the same reason you quoted, even though SO-4 flocculates well the CN-36 is better and better apparent attenuation.
The reason the comparison was done using US-05 is because it is the biggest seller of dried yeast strain.

 

[ExpatBrewer]

No my favourite was SO-4, never was that interested in 05 for the same reason you quoted, even though SO-4 flocculates well the CN-36 is better and better apparent attenuation.

M36 has become my go-to sub for S-04 - usually use it for English styles. But for others, APA's etc I like Notty - which seems like it's pretty much identical to CN36 - short lag, vigorous ferment and very-high flocculation. Also the same temp range 10 - 25ºC. Working at low temps makes it very handy for bottle carbonation in colder temps. I actually just brewed a (pseudo) lager using Notty @ 12ºC. I see Angel, the manufacturer of CN36 is a Chinese company... you don't suppose they 'borrowed' the strain do you?