Bottle conditioning

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Urbangoose

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I am just about to bottle my first wheat beer - it’s been two weeks in primary, 1 week in secondary sat on some orange peel, in garage at about 4 degrees. It has cleared relatively well for a wheat beer, but looks exceptionally flat. How will I know if there is sufficient active yeast to carbonate in the bottle?

As usual advice is very welcome

Thanks all
 
Unless wheat beers are different to other beers I'd say there will be enough yeast spring to life with some priming sugar and a cap on the bottle.
 
I am just about to bottle my first wheat beer - it’s been two weeks in primary, 1 week in secondary sat on some orange peel, in garage at about 4 degrees. It has cleared relatively well for a wheat beer, but looks exceptionally flat. How will I know if there is sufficient active yeast to carbonate in the bottle?

As usual advice is very welcome

Thanks all

I asked myself that question too, every single time. Somehow I always had enough live yeast left, maybe because I use a 23L dosage for 16L medium-strength brews? I dunno. But you could add some yeast just before bottling to the bottling vessel and stir a bit carefully.

Never brewed a wheat beer by the way, I'm on the ale side.
 
It seems to me, from some experience, that you can package beer that looks clear after say three weeks in the FV, and there will still be enough yeast in there to carb up. It just takes longer. However there is a difference in 'clear' and 'crystal clear' after several weeks of standing, and if you are packaging the latter you probably do need to seed with fresh yeast for carbonation.
 
Not crystal clear - but I have noticed that since progressing to bottling bucket rather than directly in bottle, I am not getting the same heads on my beers. Added Carapils to this brew so hoping it helps
 
Have you tasted it? I found that putting orange peel in secondary makes it taste like bubble bath.
 
You'll be fine wrt to having enough suspended yeast for bottle conditioning. I've personally done a 72 hour cold crash at -1C and bottle conditioned well: US-05.

Added Carapils to this brew so hoping it helps
You might want to try ommiting carapils from your recipe next time. You may well find that there is no difference in head with or without. Will save you a little bit of money in the long run.

IMO it's an outdated misconception that carapils aids head formation and retention. I used to use it in all my beers (because "everyone" said so) until I read this article:

http://brulosophy.com/2016/11/28/de...ous-beer-characteristics-exbeeriment-results/

From personal experience, what does help with head formation and retention is:
-oats
-wheat
-correct carbonation
-correct/good quality glass.

Take a lager for example, the grist is so basic that it doesn't allow for a good head by default. Carbonate it well and serve in a glass with an etched bottom: problem solved!
 
Not crystal clear - but I have noticed that since progressing to bottling bucket rather than directly in bottle, I am not getting the same heads on my beers. Added Carapils to this brew so hoping it helps
Flaked barley, up to 9%, aids head retention and seems to add body/mouthfeel - it's a tip I got from this forum, works well so it goes in all my brews now athumb..
 

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