jonewer
Landlord.
Vossy1 said:
Yup. And theres a 7 day lead time on the wort chiller!
Boiler option?
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Yup. And theres a 7 day lead time on the wort chiller!
jonewer
Landlord.
Hasnt Christmas just come early in the jonewer household? 
Brew day next week-end! reckon its going to be an uber-simple extract ale, no steeping anything. Just extract, hops and yeast....
First AG on the horizon, soon as I can source some Maris Otter..... wheres those instructions Parva? I'm going to need 'em!
Brew day next week-end! reckon its going to be an uber-simple extract ale, no steeping anything. Just extract, hops and yeast....
First AG on the horizon, soon as I can source some Maris Otter..... wheres those instructions Parva? I'm going to need 'em!
corby_brewer
Landlord.
congratulations on your new arival :
and welcome to the DARKSIDE :thumb:
and welcome to the DARKSIDE :thumb:jonewer
Landlord.
Reading the instructions, H&G warn against plugging both elements into one socket, or even into two sockets on one extension lead..... This throws a spaniard in the works but obviusly dont want to burn the house down... Is this essential advice or can it be diregarded?
bones
Regular.
jonewer said:
You will need to split other wise you will keep blowing fuses....
Another point ... if you are using an extension lead roll all the cable out if you dont the coil get hot and could melt!!!
Vossy1
Landlord.
This is to do with most household sockets only being rated to 13 amps, even double sockets.
2 kettle elements can/will draw over 20amps, depending on their wattage. If you do plug 2 elements into a double socket you run the risk of melting the socket, or severely damaging it, and the cable which supplies it.
You can get round this by plugging the element leads into different sockets, preferably on different circuits, if you can.
As per what bones has already said, most extension leads are only rated to 13amps, just like household sockets. If using extension leads of the winding up variety it is ESSENTIAL to uncoil them before use, as you may melt the flex of the cable if you don't.
jonewer
Landlord.
Parva said:
Yup. This happened to me today. For some reason I remembered this post but mis-remembered it as the mash tun strainer not the hop strainer.
Ho-hum. Drilling some holes this week, me.
bones
Regular.
I did see this was posted but i have never had this problem.....
The slits in your hop strainer are facing down to the bottom of the base of the boiler?
The slits in your hop strainer are facing down to the bottom of the base of the boiler?
jonewer
Landlord.
bones said:
Yes, I had it in the right way round. It was fine for about the first 15 liters of the 25ish liter brew... then slowed to a trickle... then stopped.
Edit - Just drilled around 40 3mm holes in the thing. Hopefully this will suffice!
jonewer
Landlord.
By the way, I want to drill a hole in the lid of my new fv for an airlock. Does anyone know what size drill I need? Is there any reason that this is unwise?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Why do you need an airlock? I have a 10g FV which I just put the lid on and snap a little bit open to allow it to breathe and I've gone as far as a fortnight before kegging without issue. I also have two 5g FV's and both have airlocks but both leak somewhere as I know that fermentation hasn't finished but the bubbling does. Same result, no problems. Provided that you don't keep opening the lid to have a nosey once primary fermentation is done then there's very little risk and probably no moreso than actually having an airlock.
Vossy1
Landlord.
P's advice is good. Is you still want to fit an airlock you'll probably need to make the hole in the lid big enough to take a holed bung. Measure the bung across it's narrowest point at it's base, add a couple on mm and drill to that size.
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