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Pinchy

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Hello Everyone.

Im hoping to build a boiler at some point and i have a few questions. I really dont like the idea of using 2 elements and plugs.
1. Has anyone made a boiler using a single element with success?
2. What heating element would i need?
2. has anyone used a heating element like this one?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BURCO-3000-Wa ... 0832694766
3. Would a standard wilkos fermenting bucket be suitable? Or would i need something larger to do a 40 pint BIAB?
4. Is it possible to wire in one of these to control the temp?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-STC-1 ... 2a24da2af1

Thanks!
Pinchy
 
Not sure about your first 3 questions, I use a Buffalo boiler. The others...

3. I wouldn't use a fermenter, it's not really big enough, I'd say you want a 40 litre capacity. The plastic on a fermenter is very thin too and safety wise I'd be worried about it getting too soft during the boil. Something like this one is much thicker plastic and would be better.

4. You can use an STC-1000 but it would need a relay on the heating side as it won't switch the amount of current that a heating element will draw
 
The main problem with putting one of these bottom fitted elements into a plastic bucket is that the bucket may melt as the element is close to the bottom due to excessive heat. That's one reason why the elements fitted into plastic buckets, they have good fluid circulation all round and are fitted slightly higher up the wall of the bucket to get them away from the adjacent plastic.

I seem to recall that somebody on here has put up a thread where they are controlling both or one of their dual elements using an STC controller.
 
For element I would use the Haden 2.4kw one from the heating element company, for the boiler you could use a fermenter, but as a minimum I would get one of the youngs 33l ones, only a pound or two more, and you do need the extra space for safety.

As for controllers, the stc1000 isn't what you need, they are great for brew fridges.
Have a look at this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-40-12 ... 27d41b23b5 no extras needed as it's 30a rated.
Cheers
 
rpt said:
My 40L Buffalo boiler has just one heating element and works fine. I get a good rolling boil.

+1 for the Buffalo, great boiler once you've changed the **** tap.
 
Thanks for all your replies i think im getting somewhere!

...... So if i go for a single element like this: http://www.thehomebrewcompany.co.uk/spa ... -1096.html
Would just the 1 element be enough to reach a boil and maintain this boil without ruining any electrics?
I will either fit it to a 50L stock pot or one of those blue food grade bins to do 23L brews.
 
I use the boiler from the homebrew company - it's basically a 33L fermenter with a 2.4kw element.

It always gets a rolling boil going (and a strong one at that - I can lose over 7L on a 90-min boil if I keep it completely un-lidded). I normally boil 30L with the lid half-on, and this gets me down to about 24-25L at the end.

It's also strong enough to be moved a short distance even when hot (although I really wouldn't advise this. 100° wort will *really* burn).

The only thing I've found is not to use it with a timer socket. Last time I did, the timer socket got so hot (even though it was rated at 13A - cheap Aldi thing IIRC) it nearly melted the plug - not good.
 
Pinchy said:
Would just the 1 element be enough to reach a boil and maintain this boil without ruining any electrics?
I will either fit it to a 50L stock pot or one of those blue food grade bins to do 23L brews.


Eventually yes. If you are a little impatient two are better. Some brewers use 2 to get up to boiling temps then switch to one after that. My thinking is that a vigorous boil is more important to me than the economy reason for switching one off so I use two for the whole boil. The clarity of my beer and not a hint of DMS is enough for me. If you go for bigger volumes or have to brew outside then I would say you have to have two.
 
rpt said:
I think there may be a howto somewhere on this forum for that. ;)

I've seen your guide :thumb: . Would these components be just as good for the boiler i will be making?
 
Pinchy said:
I've seen your guide :thumb: . Would these components be just as good for the boiler i will be making?
I don't see why not. You could use half inch fittings as these are more standard but more expensive. This would allow the use of a 3 piece ball valve. My 3/8 inch set up works fine though.
 
take out the clever part then maybe... :lol: . Haha if im lucky i might be able to get the plumbing parts for free :thumb:
 
Pinchy said:
will this kettle lead be OK? http://www.cableuniverse.co.uk/2m-uk-ma ... ower-cable
Its got a 13A rated plug as far as i can see i would only need to change the fuse?

No. This is a C13, you need a C15, the one I linked too. Check the socket it plugs into, often they require a notched plug to distinguish them as requiring a hot lead, which the one I linked too has. Not something you should be looking to save money on ;)
 
orlando said:
Pinchy said:
will this kettle lead be OK? http://www.cableuniverse.co.uk/2m-uk-ma ... ower-cable
Its got a 13A rated plug as far as i can see i would only need to change the fuse?

No. This is a C13, you need a C15, the one I linked too. Check the socket it plugs into, often they require a notched plug to distinguish them as requiring a hot lead, which the one I linked too has. Not something you should be looking to save money on ;)

Thanks mate! Sorry about that i somehow missed that post! This is starting to look promising now. Hopefuly i can do all this without burning the house down :electric: :thumb:
 

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