BIAB PID build - advice on wiring, fan & connectors required

[MrT]

Hello Folks,

I'm close to building my first PID controller, nearly all of the parts have arrived and I've done a decent amount of research on wiring etc.

I've got a few questions that I was hoping some kind soul might be able to help with.

Firstly here are a few photos of the plans.

From Sketchup;



and



and here is a rough schematic (apologies for it being a bit of a jungle!)



So my questions are as follows.

Firstly, I had planned on putting a 12v .5 amp adaptor in the box, to power the fan. I think it's going to be be too tight, space-wise to fit it in. Is it okay to power a small 40mm 12v fan from the SSR outputs?
I'm aware that the fan will cut in and out with SSR control.

Second, is it worth putting the extra switch on the output to the kettle?
I know that the SSR leakage is slight so perhaps this is unnecessary when the kettle can be easily unplugged. It's a single 2.4kw element with an IEC connector on the kettle.

Third, I bought a powercon duplex connector, thinking that this would be a neat and secure way of adding power in and out to the controller. It arrived with the outputs soldered to the inputs, so to be used as an extra output. I'm assuming that it's fine to unsolder this connection and re-solder the output as in the wiring diagram. Can anyone see a problem with this or have some further info to why this might not be a good idea?

Picture of the connector here;



Fourth, The XLR output for PT100 has an extra solder tag, which I've assumed is for a ground. I thought it would be sensible to add a ground to the heatsink too, as there'll be a metal nut on the outside of the plastic box to secure it. Is this a good idea?

Lastly, I'd really appreciate it if someone could have a once over the wiring and let me know if it all looks correct and safe. I've got a reasonable understanding of how it should all be connected and will be using correctly rated cable etc.

I'm very excited to have some proper control over my temps and really look forward to incorporating this controller into my little brew setup. I really want to make sure that it's all safe and logically connected before I do so any advice here would be much appreciated and gratefully received!

Cheers to you all!

:thumb:

 

[MrT]

So having another little think about it, this seems like a better schematic.



I'm hoping that I've got enough room for the 12v power supply and it seems sensible to replace the DPST switch with a toggle switch and power relay for the kettle output.

I'd love to hear some opinions on various aspects of all this if anyone has a moment over the weekend, especially about the Powercon duplex connector and overall wiring/schematic.

First brew day today in a long time - a BIAB robust porter and an extract IPA, I cannot wait!

Cheers all.

 

[mojonojo]

Have a look at the WH7016E it has a built in 30A relayruns on 240c and will save you all the SSR and 12v trauma

 

[MrT]

The difference between STC-1000 style controllers and PIDs has been well documented on the forum, so I won't get into that here.

I've got something very similar to that controlling temps on an IPA in my beer fridge right now, but for holding a BIAB system at mash temps for 90 minutes it's not ideal.

Thanks for the suggestion though. :thumb:

Throwing it out there again, any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers all.

 

[mojonojo]

Well i have been using one for the last 3 years, with a maximum of a 1c drift in the mash (before i corrected with a pump). you are welcome to your solution - i moved on to a Arduino controller since.

 

[Mark1964]

you can earth via the ssr i did the same earthing to the screws on the ssr. You dont really need a fan to cool as the ssr only clicks on and off on a relay while controlling a herms etc even if your heating a hlt using the ssr it gets warm but not over hot.

 

[MrT]

Thanks Mark, that's good to know. I think I'm definitely going to add an earth to the heatsink/ssr.

Does anyone have info on the double powercon connector? I'm hoping it'll be okay to resolder the output so it's coming from the SSR, rather than a linked output from the input. :hmm:

 

[TexasPete]

You dont really need a fan to cool as the ssr only clicks on and off on a relay while controlling a herms etc even if your heating a hlt using the ssr it gets warm but not over hot.

Pardon? The OP is putting the heatsink inside the box, if it was in free air then he could possibly get away with no fan, but because it is enclosed then yes he is going to need to put a fan in the box, to dissipate the heat.

The SSR does not 'Switch a Relay', the SSR IS a relay, albiet using some fancy MOSFET semiconductors, when those MOSFETS are energized and passing the full 2.2KW of current then they will get hot, if that heat isn't dissipated then the MOSFETS tend to self destruct.

The 30A relay is there as a safety device when energized (switched on) it allows current to flow to the SSR.

I don't see why the OP cannot rewire the POWERCON connector either, so that it acts as an inlet as well as an outlet. HOWEVER using solder for high current joins is frowned upon. if they heat up the resistance increases causing more heating, and before you know it they have unsoldered themselves, if they don't burst into flame first

 

[MrT]

Apologies for the late reply on this, it's been a busy few weeks!

Firstly, thanks to TexasPete for the informative reply. I thought about what you said and decided to go with another output, so I don't have to use the soldered output at all, at least not for anything high-current.

Here is where I ended up...



and once the PT100 was soldered in;



I'll do a proper write up at some point on another thread and link to it here for anyone that's interested.

Here's a picture of it in action over the weekend - bringing liquor up to strike temps. It did a great job both on maintaining temps on the the mash and also controlling the boil level on 42L of best bitter. I'm glad I installed the fan - the box got pretty hot in use, especially over where the relay and heatsink is. I'm actually tempted to put in another fan on the opposite side of the box and the other way round to help with airflow.



I'd also like to mention a big thanks to MrLard (homebrewbuilder.co.uk) - that's where I got the PT100 and a few other bits from - I can't recommend him highly enough. Excellent equipment, customer service and advice. He's a top bloke!

Cheers all. :

 

[Andrew Chapman]

Apologies for the late reply on this, it's been a busy few weeks!

Firstly, thanks to TexasPete for the informative reply. I thought about what you said and decided to go with another output, so I don't have to use the soldered output at all, at least not for anything high-current.

Here is where I ended up...



and once the PT100 was soldered in;



I'll do a proper write up at some point on another thread and link to it here for anyone that's interested.

Here's a picture of it in action over the weekend - bringing liquor up to strike temps. It did a great job both on maintaining temps on the the mash and also controlling the boil level on 42L of best bitter. I'm glad I installed the fan - the box got pretty hot in use, especially over where the relay and heatsink is. I'm actually tempted to put in another fan on the opposite side of the box and the other way round to help with airflow.



I'd also like to mention a big thanks to MrLard (homebrewbuilder.co.uk) - that's where I got the PT100 and a few other bits from - I can't recommend him highly enough. Excellent equipment, customer service and advice. He's a top bloke!

Cheers all. :

Hi, awesome looking system that!

Are you in the UK?

 

[BeerCat]

Hi, awesome looking system that!

Are you in the UK?

I don't think Andrew is active here anymore. There are some instructions to wire one up here on this lovely gents videos that should help you out.