Begginer Conditioning Method Queries

[Marcus]

Hi Guys,

Looking for some beginner advice regarding the conditioning process.

My original plan was to have one fermenter which is only fitted with an airlock, no tap. Reason for no tap is out of caution, just in case the tap fails and destroys the upstairs carpet!

Once fermentation is complete, my plan was to use an auto-syphon to transfer the beer into a second fermenting bucket, of which will be fitted with a tap including a sediment trap.
After the syphon, the plan was to immediately proceed to the bottling process, using a bottle wand designed to directly fit into the tap on the fermenter.
Then of course, leave the beer to condition within the bottles.
As you can guess, the only use for this second fermenter is for making the bottling process easier. My only concern is that I might be creating unnecessary work / creating a bigger window for contamination.

After further reading, I have seen various opinions / methods which I am keen to gain a better insight into.

One of these alternate methods was to use the same step 1 as above, (fermenter, no tap), however this time auto-siphon into a Glass Carboy vessel, where the conditioning process will then take place.
Once conditioning is complete, proceed to bottling. Although, not sure how I am going to bottle from the glass vessel yet, there must be a smarter method then having to auto-syphon from the glass vessel to another bucket which is fitted with a tap?

Appreciate any advice given :)

Kindest regards,

Marcus

 

[sdt7618]

Your first method is exactly what I do, using starsan, to sanitise the second fv takes no time at all and saves the fear of a leaky tap.

If you go with method 2 how do you intend to carb your beer after conditioning it?

Keep it simple, and you will be just fine. my first few brews I did straight from the primary fv with the siphon and it worked ok, a fair bit of yeast etc in the beer, but with time it settled out, now use a second fv and a little bottler directly on the tap, still get some yeast etc, but nothing like before.

Best thing you can do is take you time and give your beer loads of conditioning time. it will settle and will be a better drink for it.

Oh and get the next one on straight away, build up a stock so you are drinking nice beer while your making more ready to condition. it has taken me about 5-6 brews to get to the stage where I am drinking 2-3 month old beer that is very tasty.

 

[chuff76]

On bottling day calculate correct amount of priming sugar - sterilise in boiling water and add to second FV(bottling bucket), then syphon your beer onto this from your first FV - avoid splashing, try to get the siphoned beer to whirlpool around the bottom of the bucket so its well mixed with the sugar - I always try to keep it covered as best I can too.

With a sediment trap on the auto syphon you should be able to get nothing but beer from FV#1 leaving all the trub behind, then bottle as much as you can from FV#2 - I occasionally get a few 'bits' through, but any that do are left in the bottling bucket at the end (tiny bits of hops etc as I've been dry hopping with whole leaf)

so method #1 !! It's easy and I've never had any problems from the transfer, just starsan the bejeezus out of everything as you go.

Conditioned in the bottle at room temp it will be mostly carbed after a fortnight, but I find 3 weeks to be more realistic - at this point it is drinkable, but can take longer to settle out and become clear - My latest was cloudy as hell until it had 5-6 weeks in the bottle and is now crystal clear.

This is why overlapping brews is a good idea, helps me to stave off the impatience!

 

[Marcus]

Brilliant, thank you both very much, that has completely answered my concerns and reassured me on what to do! :)

 

[geetee]

Hi Guys,

Looking for some beginner advice regarding the conditioning process.


Once fermentation is complete, my plan was to use an auto-syphon to transfer the beer into a second fermenting bucket, of which will be fitted with a tap including a sediment trap.
After the syphon, the plan was to immediately proceed to the bottling process, using a bottle wand designed to directly fit into the tap on the fermenter.

Then of course, leave the beer to condition within the bottles.
As you can guess, the only use for this second fermenter is for making the bottling process easier. My only concern is that I might be creating unnecessary work / creating a bigger window for contamination.

After further reading, I have seen various opinions / methods which I am keen to gain a better insight into.

One of these alternate methods was to use the same step 1 as above, (fermenter, no tap), however this time auto-siphon into a Glass Carboy vessel, where the conditioning process will then take place.


Marcus

Marcus

Your method 1 indicates transferring after fermentation, is that immediately after fermentation?

In Method 2 you are transferring to a glass carboy after fermentation, again is this immediately after.

My reason for asking this is that following fermentation it is usual to condition the beer before transferring and the usual method is with the yeast in situ. There are a number of processes that condition the beer that involves the yeast cleaning up the products of side reactions and this is best done with the majority of the yeast in place.

I usually cool to about 13°C for 2 days or so after fermentation is complete and then chill down with the yeast still in place. There will still be some conditioning going on until the temp hits rock bottom and this will allow the beer to clear. At this point, maybe 5- 7 days after fermentation I would transfer to the bottling bucket and proceed although some people do tend to leave on the yeast for up to 2 weeks.

Once bottled there will still be a conditioning phase in the bottles following secondary fermentation reactions and carbonation but I like to do most of the conditioning with the yeast still in place to help mop up.

 

[cheshirehomebrew]

I syphon off from my fermenting bucket into a glass carboy fitted with an airlock so I can dry hop, as its in a light filled place I cover with a towel to stop the sun leaching any colour out of my beer, I usually dry hop for 5 days then swap out and replace the hops with some more for another 5 days, this avoids overly grassy notes from a 10 day straight dry hop, then I add 100gms of sugar solution to the car boy and bottle

 

[chewie]

Although, not sure how I am going to bottle from the glass vessel yet, there must be a smarter method then having to auto-syphon from the glass vessel to another bucket which is fitted with a tap?

You can attach your bottling stick into the end of your auto syphon hose and then proceed to bottle out of your carboy if you choose to do that, the bottling stick will then work as if its on a gravity feed that you would get from a bottom connection tap on a FV, you will need to press the stick down at the same time as you pump the syphon.

 

[Noah]

Hi Guys,

Looking for some beginner advice regarding the conditioning process.

My original plan was to have one fermenter which is only fitted with an airlock, no tap. Reason for no tap is out of caution, just in case the tap fails and destroys the upstairs carpet!

Once fermentation is complete, my plan was to use an auto-syphon to transfer the beer into a second fermenting bucket, of which will be fitted with a tap including a sediment trap.
After the syphon, the plan was to immediately proceed to the bottling process, using a bottle wand designed to directly fit into the tap on the fermenter.
Then of course, leave the beer to condition within the bottles.

Kindest regards,

Marcus

My set up is more or less the same and you've had some good advice above. I would add that most new home brewers are too hasty at the early stages. Leave your fermented brew where it is for a minimum of 2 weeks with the airlock on, it won't do it any harm at all.

After that syphon into your second fermenting bucket and leave it for another 2 weeks or more before bottling. If you have the facility to cool it down a bit all well and good. This will be your conditioning stage and CO2 will still be protecting your beer.

Then follow the priming stage as mentioned above before bottling, keep a notebook so you don't forget to add the sugar! Leave the bottles in a warm place for secondary fermentation and leave for as long as you can before enjoying. They may be just about drinkable in 2 weeks but you won't believe the improvement if left for 6 weeks.

 

[Marcus]

Hi guys, sorry for not getting back sooner.
Appreciate all the advice given above :)

The below as advised be geetee will be the process that I will follow;

I usually cool to about 13°C for 2 days or so after fermentation is complete and then chill down with the yeast still in place. There will still be some conditioning going on until the temp hits rock bottom and this will allow the beer to clear. At this point, maybe 5- 7 days after fermentation I would transfer to the bottling bucket and proceed although some people do tend to leave on the yeast for up to 2 weeks.

Once bottled there will still be a conditioning phase in the bottles following secondary fermentation reactions and carbonation but I like to do most of the conditioning with the yeast still in place to help mop up.

Fingers crossed the first brew comes out well! :)