Beer Enhancer or household sugar?

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Beer Enhancer or household sugar?

  • Beer Enhancer

  • household sugar


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ATOJAR

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What do you lot use and why? ... Still new to brewing and just set of my second ever brew in the FV. For both brews so far ive used a 1kg bag of Young's Beer Enhancer so dont know what home brew tastes like with household sugar but is it really worth the extra £3.50 for the Beer Enhancer?

The above is based on a cooper European lager kit.
 
Hi!
Certainly!
Sugar alone tends to make a "thin" beer. Glucose (brewing sugar) is better than household sugar as it gives the yeast less work to do.
Brew enhancer is usually a mixture of dried malt extract (DME) and glucose and will give more body to the beer.
 
I use 1.5kg dme in coopers kits makes a much better brew
I've done that kit it needs a long time at about 14c to get the best from it
 
What do you lot use and why? ... Still new to brewing and just set of my second ever brew in the FV. For both brews so far ive used a 1kg bag of Young's Beer Enhancer so dont know what home brew tastes like with household sugar but is it really worth the extra ���£3.50 for the Beer Enhancer?

The above is based on a cooper European lager kit.

In the bad old days with kits, people used household sugar to supplement the kit malt because there was usually nothing else available. That is no longer the case. Some kit instructions still suggest you can do this. I have no idea why, possibly because it attracts people who are only interested in making cheap beer. Using household sugar is also said to give the beer a cidery taste. Enhancing your brew with dextrose (brewing sugar) alone is only one small step better.
For what is effectively a few pence a pint more you can make a much better beer by using beer enhancer or better still liquid or dried malt on its own. And like a lot of folks on here an additional improvement is a boost/pimp with a micromash or minimash of pale malt and other adjuncts.
 
For priming I mainly use Brewing Sugar (Dextrose) or Beer Enhancer (DME) and very occasionally household sugar.

I never use household sugar as an adjunct to a kit brew.

I have been keeping a Brewing Diary for a year, so on kits where extra sugar is required I use:

o Brewing Sugar (Dextrose) for new kits or if I was happy with the first batch I brewed,

o Beer Enhancer (DME) if I wasn't happy with the first batch. This is to give the brew that bit more flavour and sometimes it's successful; in which case I use DME afterwards.

However, if I brew the kit twice and didn't like either version I "NRB" the brew in the Diary.

NRB being Offshore Speak for Not Required Back! :thumb: :thumb:
 
I mostly make "two can" kits these days anyway so no additional sugar required except for priming, for that tend to use brewing sugar.

I about to re-visit the one can kit having heard so many great things on here about Coopers Stout but with that I bought a beer enhancer.
 
In order of descending quality:
DME>Beer enhancer>Brewing sugar>Table sugar
Don't use table sugar, it dilutes flavour and reduces body. It's fine to use for priming because you're only using a small amount.
 
For a one can kit I use 1kg Brew Enhancer and either 50-60g of honey or a tin of Lyles golden syrup to bump up the ABV. 1/2 tsp of sugar to prime per 500ml bottle. I add a 30-40g hop tea with the weighted hop bag added to the FV and I've enjoyed all the beers I've brewed using this method.
 
I am at the moment doing my first brew with beer enhancer. It is a brew I have done many times before, so I should know as soon as I taste it if worth the extra money.

The problem is there are so many variables, the main one being temperature, when I first started I noted that the same kit produced varying results, had it not been that our fridge/freezer was condemned as having faulty insulation and the insurance paid out, likely I would still not have a temperature controlled brewing system set up.

The first thing I realised when I set up the fridge/freezer to brew in with temperature control was all the data I had gathered before having it could be thrown out.

Kits I had considered as not to my taste were very much to my taste once temperature was controlled.

I would guess this will also be the case when using different sugars and dried malt extract. When you read a kit review what you want is to compare cost to quality. As you add to the cost using dried malt you very soon come to same price as a two can kit.

As DIY from applying the can opener to the can to drinking can be 4 months, I can do the same kit 4 times and have bottles on the shelf of all 4 attempts of the same brew, with notes on the computer on exactly how it was fermented. Which on causal reading all seem the same. But taste has changed between the 4 brews.

On going to the shed where I store my beer I found the pop bottles very hard clearly a little too much CO2 in the bottle, I released the excess pressure as it's a pain to pour. Next bottle opened 2 days latter had a far more mellow taste. Only change was to release excess CO2.

How much the shed temperature makes one can only guess. I think it is likely the more you pay to make the brew the better it will be. At £2 a pint about the cheapest you can buy beer 40 pints would cost £80 so home brew will reduce that bill, I have had few failures nothing wrong with beer, just did not like it once made, with the pub they will often let you taste the beer first. So if you go on the idea that 1 in 12 will not be to your taste instead of counting on a brew being 40 pints count it as 36 pints to allow for the odd bad brew. So at £10 a kit then 28p a pint, at £20 then 56p a pint both cheap, but unlikely the 56p pint will be twice as good as the 28p pint. By time you hit the 83p pint then one really has to ask questions is it worth it, or should you be moving away from kit beer?

My first step away from kit as supplied following the instructions was when Morrison's stopped doing the kits. They were less than £7 a can and I was brewing Geordie kits, but not into larger, and larger was only kit left, so a bought the last few larger kits and used them as the sugar for the Scottish heavy Kits.

However I was greedy so also added some sugar and some extra water, yes they were good, but I was hitting the 6% ABV mark and really not to my taste.

So in 2 months time I can give an answer, but in 2 years time likely a better answer. And by then likely the yeast will have altered slightly and the kit will have altered slightly and a load of other things will have also changed.

Since I have bought enhancer I clearly hope I will get a better pint, but we all have different tastes so it is down to each person to select what best fits his or her pallet.
 
the old adage is and always has been,household sugar (beet) is what gives your brew the homebrew twang.if ive learned anything over 40 odd years brewing is one simple fact.......dry hopping even using one can budget kits gives you a beer that far outstrips just using household sugar.try it you will be amazed
 
Hi!
Certainly!
Sugar alone tends to make a "thin" beer. Glucose (brewing sugar) is better than household sugar as it gives the yeast less work to do.
Brew enhancer is usually a mixture of dried malt extract (DME) and glucose and will give more body to the beer.

That's pretty much it. Table sugar is sucrose. Takes more work for the yeast to break it down, debating if it gives off different flavors. Some types of beer need those flavors and get them by using candi sugar. Takes longer to ferment and condition allowing the yeast to clean up its mess.
 
Personally, when I used to brew kits, I found that adding 1kg sugar to a 1 can kit often produced a beer suffering from `homebrew twang'. You can avoid it however by brewing short - 4 gallons instead of 5 - and only using half a kilo of sugar. This gives the same ABV as the kit is meant to have but you don't get the twang and also you get a much better flavour as the kit has been concentrated.
Never used DME.
 
Ok ill stick with brew enhancer then. :)

One more thing, What about sugar used for carbonating? Is household sugar fine for that or would you recommend something else?

Cheers.
 
Table/household sugar is fine for priming.
It's contribution to taste in the quantities involved is negligible.
It does the job in terms of CO2 production.
And it's cheap.
 
This thread got me thinking, in Japan we have tons of Mirin. Mirin is rice syrup. That should be good for carbonating. And here in Japan it's cheap. I'll bottle 4 today as a test. It contains some alcohol so no need to boil or anything. I'll just try 5 ml , 8 ml, and 10 ml. That'll give me a reference on how much to use.
 
Table/household sugar is fine for priming.
It's contribution to taste in the quantities involved is negligible.
It does the job in terms of CO2 production.
And it's cheap.

Ok great, Is it better to boil the sugar in a little water, cover and let it cool? .... Just for sanitation purpose's? ... I mean will the beer still prime as normal if boiled with water first?

My last brew i didn't boil the sugar 1st, i added it dry, as it was. The beer turned out fine just id rather be safe than sorry for future brews if the above is ok to do.

Cheers.
 
I am at the moment doing my first brew with beer enhancer. It is a brew I have done many times before, so I should know as soon as I taste it if worth the extra money.

By time you hit the 83p pint then one really has to ask questions is it worth it, or should you be moving away from kit beer?

erm... well my beer costs about 90p a 500ml bottle, and there's no way I can buy beer like that for less than £1.50 more often than not you're paying £1.99 plus. but it's not the cost for me more the convenience and satisfaction of brewing that I like rather than a supermarket decide what it will sell to me ;-)
 
This thread got me thinking, in Japan we have tons of Mirin. Mirin is rice syrup. That should be good for carbonating. And here in Japan it's cheap. I'll bottle 4 today as a test. It contains some alcohol so no need to boil or anything. I'll just try 5 ml , 8 ml, and 10 ml. That'll give me a reference on how much to use.

I checked out Mirin on "the site that tells nothing but the truth" ...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirin

... and on the first paragraph it states ...

"The sugar content is a complex carbohydrate formed naturally via the fermentation process; it is not refined sugar."

If the sugar is formed by a fermentation process, it may indicate that the sugar contained in Mirin is non-fermentable.

IF it's non-fermentable, you won't be able to use Mirin to carbonate a beer, so be careful not to waste too much trying. :thumb: :thumb:
 

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