Baby Burco f33l boiler Help

[Pete21]

OK I used a different thermometer and got a reading of 97.5c it boiled for a minute then cut out for a minute the temp dropped to 95.7 and then it started to heat up again, this tells me evrything is as it should be with the boiler, however it's no use for brewing if I can't get a continuous rolling boil or will what it is doing be ok for brewing? without the continuous rolling boil?
EDIT
I know now a rolling boil is essential
Hot Break
Word that comes straight from the mash contains, among other things, a lot of different proteins. One of the most important functions of the boil is to remove some of these proteins which can cause side effects ranging from the chill haze to off-flavors making the beer undrinkable. It is important to boil any beer for at least one hour and to maintain a rolling boil for that whole time to completely stabilize the brew. Of course, you would never want to remove all of the proteins from a beer as they are responsible for some of its most important aspects including color and mouthfeel.

Hops play an important role in the process of removing these harmful proteins. The malt proteins will stick to the polyphenols from the hops. A vigorous boil assures that these polyphenols will actively move about in the kettle and gather as many of the proteins as possible.

As these unstable proteins gather or flocculate, they form little clouds in the brew. These clouds will fall under their own weight or precipitate to the bottom of the kettle at the end of the boil. This is known as the hot break. This is the most important part of the boil as it removes the nastiest of the potentially harmful proteins – those that can cause off-flavors and instability. You can judge when the hot break occurs by taking a sample of wort. You will see the cloud or flocks of protein suspended in the sample. Once removed from the agitation of the boil, these clouds will settle to the bottom of the container. When this happens you will know that you’ve achieved the hot break.
=
so is there anyone on here that can help with bypassing the cut out switch on the thermostat

 

[Pete21]

OMG Rutger hauer has passed I'm gutted

 

[BeerCat]

Could you help @Hoddy :)

 

[entertheflagon]

OK I used a different thermometer and got a reading of 97.5c it boiled for a minute then cut out for a minute the temp dropped to 95.7 and then it started to heat up again, this tells me evrything is as it should be with the boiler, however it's no use for brewing if I can't get a continuous rolling boil or will what it is doing be ok for brewing? without the continuous rolling boil?
EDIT
I know now a rolling boil is essential
Hot Break
Word that comes straight from the mash contains, among other things, a lot of different proteins. One of the most important functions of the boil is to remove some of these proteins which can cause side effects ranging from the chill haze to off-flavors making the beer undrinkable. It is important to boil any beer for at least one hour and to maintain a rolling boil for that whole time to completely stabilize the brew. Of course, you would never want to remove all of the proteins from a beer as they are responsible for some of its most important aspects including color and mouthfeel.

Hops play an important role in the process of removing these harmful proteins. The malt proteins will stick to the polyphenols from the hops. A vigorous boil assures that these polyphenols will actively move about in the kettle and gather as many of the proteins as possible.

As these unstable proteins gather or flocculate, they form little clouds in the brew. These clouds will fall under their own weight or precipitate to the bottom of the kettle at the end of the boil. This is known as the hot break. This is the most important part of the boil as it removes the nastiest of the potentially harmful proteins – those that can cause off-flavors and instability. You can judge when the hot break occurs by taking a sample of wort. You will see the cloud or flocks of protein suspended in the sample. Once removed from the agitation of the boil, these clouds will settle to the bottom of the container. When this happens you will know that you’ve achieved the hot break.
=
so is there anyone on here that can help with bypassing the cut out switch on the thermostat

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BURCO-HE...344702?hash=item1e7d3faffe:g:uykAAOxydwZR594B
This might be a replacement without an integral cutout but I'd contact them before I bought to make sure they don't send one with cut out.
An extra element won't help much as the temp will cut out at 95 or so anyway.
I'd silver solder or clamp a spade to bypass the cut out switch , A mechanical connection with screw terminal will be fine,

 

[Pete21]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BURCO-HE...344702?hash=item1e7d3faffe:g:uykAAOxydwZR594B
This might be a replacement without an integral cutout but I'd contact them before I bought to make sure they don't send one with cut out.
An extra element won't help much as the temp will cut out at 95 or so anyway.
I'd silver solder or clamp a spade to bypass the cut out switch , A mechanical connection with screw terminal will be fine,

thanks for the advice, could you tell which one is the cut out switch, electronics is all greek to me, I really ain't got a clue when it comes to electrics

 

[entertheflagon]

thanks for the advice, could you tell which one is the cut out switch, electronics is all greek to me, I really ain't got a clue when it comes to electrics

The cut off switch is in the yellow block.
You have the earth connection, the live goes to a spade terminal on one side of the yellow block then it gets to the element via the welded wire loop. The nutral goes to the other element terminal via its spade terminal.
Take a pair of cutters and cut the loop to the yellow block and connect to the live via a screw type chock block, nice and tight..
Just be careful you don't break the welded end off the element if you try to straighten the wire a bit.
That will bypass the cut off but it will be OK if you watch your kettle boil, you'll have no safety cut off.

 

[Pete21]

thanks

 

[entertheflagon]

thanks

That'll be 'batch sparging'.
I recommend it myself for its simplicity, I do it.
A plastic boil bucket gives me the willies every time I think about it, 25 litres of scalding wort in a softening bucket!
You could replace the burco element with one minus a cut off and use the existing one in a plastic bucked for sparge heating?

 

[Pete21]

That'll be 'batch sparging'.
I recommend it myself for its simplicity, I do it.
A plastic boil bucket gives me the willies every time I think about it, 25 litres of scalding wort in a softening bucket!

the bucket stays rigid , I ran it for an hour and it held it's shape as it's polypropylene it's the HDPE that goes soft,you can buy commercial boilers made from polypropylene, I am still unsure of what you mean on the wiring I will ask a mate to read it as I think he may be a bit more savy than me on electrics. I really do appreciate your trying to help, but on electrics I am a lost cause without diagrams and pointing arrows .
edit
how long do you batch sparg for , 20mins an hour?

 

[entertheflagon]

thanks

You could also simply short it out with a link wire to link both sides of the yellow block.
It works by breaking contact at some temp, short it out and it's bypassed.

 

[entertheflagon]

the bucket stays rigid , I ran it for an hour and it held it's shape as it's polypropylene it's the HDPE that goes soft,you can buy commercial boilers made from polypropylene, I am still unsure of what you mean on the wiring I will ask a mate to read it as I think he may be a bit more savy than me on electrics. I really do appreciate your trying to help, but on electrics I am a lost cause without diagrams and pointing arrows .

You just need to short across the yellow block, that way the element is permanently connected.
At 90 odd deg the cut out will open but if you've shorted it with a stout wire it will not make any difference. You need one wire, the nutral, say to go to one side of the element and the other, the live to connect to the side of the element with the bent wire, either by a solid mechanical fix or a high temp solder fix.

 

[Pete21]

forgive me for being stupid but if I cut the black wires connected to the block and join them together, won't that do the trick

 

[entertheflagon]

forgive me for being stupid but if I cut the black wires connected to the block and join them together, won't that do the trickView attachment 19940

No.
The cut out switch is connected to the element, it's in thermal contact.
The block you refer to looks to be a capacitor across the mains switch to suppress switching clicks on the supply, nothing to do with the temp switch. what's on the other side of that wiring block?
But not clear in your pic.
I should add that if you connected the two black wires, make sure the wife can't hear the bang!

 

[Pete21]

No.
The cut out switch is connected to the element, it's in thermal contact.
The block you refer to is a capacitor across the mains switch to suppress switching clicks on the supply, nothing to do with the temp switch.

I think I get it now :) fingers crossed

 

[Hoddy]

Ok just to add in here to help out. Using the circuit diagram and what’s available to mark it up on my iPad this is the change that you need to make to the circuit to make it boil but still cut out on safety at 135oC.

You need to remove the link I have scrubbed in green and then connect A to B shown in red. As others have said the replacement cable needs to be suitably rated (thickness) and also suited to a hot environment. Also the connectors need to be rated to 13AMPs as well and suitably heat rated.

Just taking out the thermostat or just the 97oC stat wont work for you so you need to take our both.

When your working out which cable is which you could use the colours at source and trace them through.

Hope that helps.

 

[Pete21]

View attachment 19948
Ok just to add in here to help out. Using the circuit diagram and what’s available to mark it up on my iPad this is the change that you need to make to the circuit to make it boil but still cut out on safety at 135oC.

You need to remove the link I have scrubbed in green and then connect A to B shown in red. As others have said the replacement cable needs to be suitably rated (thickness) and also suited to a hot environment. Also the connectors need to be rated to 13AMPs as well and suitably heat rated.

Just taking out the thermostat or just the 97oC stat wont work for you so you need to take our both.

When your working out which cable is which you could use the colours at source and trace them through.

Hope that helps.

Nice one I feel a bit more confident with a diagram, wish me luck. your help is really appreciated
thank you

 

[bobukbrewer]

why not take out all wiring and connect live to one side of element and neutral to the other - that is my set up - but note the live first goes to an electronic voltage controller - so I can set the severity of the boil - also great for holding temperature at 68 during mash by drastically reducing voltage until you can only just hear the element - it balances the heat losses....

 

[Pete21]

why not take out all wiring and connect live to one side of element and neutral to the other - that is my set up - but note the live first goes to an electronic voltage controller - so I can set the severity of the boil - also great for holding temperature at 68 during mash by drastically reducing voltage until you can only just hear the element - it balances the heat losses....

I had thought of that as I do own a pid with a 3 pin plug socket , I am still studying the diagram , even with all the help the wiring is like double dutch to me, We never did electrics or electronics at school so I have no grounding in electrics at all, the diagram hoddy kindly did for me doesn't quite match my boilers wiring so I am still a bit nervous of attempting it, thanks for suggesting going for hooking the live and neutral direct to the element, it may come to that. thanks.
the PID I brought

 

[entertheflagon]

I had thought of that as I do own a pid with a 3 pin plug socket , I am still studying the diagram , even with all the help the wiring is like double dutch to me, We never did electrics or electronics at school so I have no grounding in electrics at all, the diagram hoddy kindly did for me doesn't quite match my boilers wiring so I am still a bit nervous of attempting it, thanks for suggesting going for hooking the live and neutral direct to the element, it may come to that. thanks.
the PID I brought
View attachment 19963

Bypassing the temp switch does just that, connect directly to the elements but it would be an excellent idea to then plug the thing into a controller.
Best of both worlds.

 

[Hoddy]

I had thought of that as I do own a pid with a 3 pin plug socket , I am still studying the diagram , even with all the help the wiring is like double dutch to me, We never did electrics or electronics at school so I have no grounding in electrics at all, the diagram hoddy kindly did for me doesn't quite match my boilers wiring so I am still a bit nervous of attempting it, thanks for suggesting going for hooking the live and neutral direct to the element, it may come to that. thanks.
the PID I brought
View attachment 19963

I’m away on hols in Spain so I don’t have access to a computer to do you a more relative diagram. Hopefully you can work it from what you have.