Avoiding over sparging

[wizurd1977]

Evening all,

I was looking for some advice to avoid over sparging and getting astringency in the finished beer.

I've got a boiler with a large dead space. What i did last time around was to tip the boiler in order to get access to most of the wort except the trub at the bottom. The dead space is 6L.

I was thinking instead of having to tip the boiler i could increase the amount that i use when i sparge, perhaps add on another 6L so that i then end up with the dead space in the boiler being covered by this extra 6L.

But i'm worried that i'll be pushing too much water through on my batch sparge leading to astringency.

So i wondered what suggestions anyone might have. The numbers i'm looking at for the brew are as follows:

To give you an idea my next brew is using 5.8KG of grains at 2.75 L/Kg. So i'll be adding 16L of water for the mash. I'll lose say 5.2L to grain absorption plus 2.4L to the deadspace in the mash tun. Therefore should have around 8.4L of wort into the boiler. Looking at the recipe calcs i'll then need to add another 25L on the batch sparge if i want to add on for the boiler dead space. 25L from the batch sparge would end up in the boiler with the 8.4 giving total of 33.4L in the boiler. Take off 6L for deadspace gives 27.4, i tend to lose about 20% evaporation for a 60 min boil uncovered which then leaves 21.92. Take off 1L to trub at the bottom as well which gives me 20.92L and i wanted to end with 21L.

Sorry for all the numbers :-) Do you think i'll end up sparging too much with that 25L batch sparge or do these numbers sound about right to people?

 

[foxy]

Evening all,

I was looking for some advice to avoid over sparging and getting astringency in the finished beer.

I've got a boiler with a large dead space. What i did last time around was to tip the boiler in order to get access to most of the wort except the trub at the bottom. The dead space is 6L.

I was thinking instead of having to tip the boiler i could increase the amount that i use when i sparge, perhaps add on another 6L so that i then end up with the dead space in the boiler being covered by this extra 6L.

But i'm worried that i'll be pushing too much water through on my batch sparge leading to astringency.

So i wondered what suggestions anyone might have. The numbers i'm looking at for the brew are as follows:

To give you an idea my next brew is using 5.8KG of grains at 2.75 L/Kg. So i'll be adding 16L of water for the mash. I'll lose say 5.2L to grain absorption plus 2.4L to the deadspace in the mash tun. Therefore should have around 8.4L of wort into the boiler. Looking at the recipe calcs i'll then need to add another 25L on the batch sparge if i want to add on for the boiler dead space. 25L from the batch sparge would end up in the boiler with the 8.4 giving total of 33.4L in the boiler. Take off 6L for deadspace gives 27.4, i tend to lose about 20% evaporation for a 60 min boil uncovered which then leaves 21.92. Take off 1L to trub at the bottom as well which gives me 20.92L and i wanted to end with 21L.

Sorry for all the numbers :-) Do you think i'll end up sparging too much with that 25L batch sparge or do these numbers sound about right to people?

What equipment are you using? Why don't you make a dip tube for the kettle , or use a helix.
If you have the room to batch sparge why not try full volume mash.

 

[Sadfield]

Can you over sparge on a batch sparge? Always thought that was the benefit over fly sparging.

 

[wizurd1977]

@Sadfield I wasn't sure to be honest but given the amount of water i'm looking at sparging with i thought maybe it could be a problem.

 

[wizurd1977]

@foxy I'm using one of those large igloo cooler boxes 48L in size i think. The boiler is a stainless steel pot that i added two eletric elements too, it's a 50L one. The tap is situated pretty low to the bottom of the pot but given its diameter it still means a 6L deadspace. I'd not seen the dip tubes before, that would definitely sort the issue of dead space. Also I'd not considered doing a full volume mash. With the full volume mash wouldn't i end up with a mash consistency that's too low i.e. too much water?

 

[foxy]

Thats the only method I use is full volume mash no sparge. But I have a recirculating mash tun/ kettle. Using the esky I probably wouldn't do that but could be worth a try, you will take a hit on efficiency so would have to add extra grain to cover it. I think I would definitely try full volume, nothing ventured nothing gained.
Even with the dip tube you will be looking at about 2 -2.5 litres loss to trub.

 

[wizurd1977]

Thanks @foxy i'll have a look at trying a full volume mash on the next one. Seen advice now saying to up the grain bill by about 25% to take account of the efficiency drop. Will be fun trying it.

 

[foxy]

Thanks @foxy i'll have a look at trying a full volume mash on the next one. Seen advice now saying to up the grain bill by about 25% to take account of the efficiency drop. Will be fun trying it.

If you can rock the esky a bit during the mash helps improve efficiency. Keep reading.

 

[Clint]

Why does rocking the cool box improve efficiency?

 

[foxy]

Just helps by rinsing the liquor through the grain, difficult to stir in the esky.

 

[Clint]

I took use the square blue Igloo cooler...I punch a piece of foil full of holes to sit on the grain bed for the sparge to save disruption.
Anyone know where to buy a custom top plate for this ...or how to make one?

 

[wizurd1977]

good tip on rocking the box! ta